Realm of Knowledge

A couple things about measuring salinity...

First, all you ever wanted to know about Refractometers

And second, a recipie for a DIY Salinity Verification Standard which is especially important to all you hydrometer users. Hydrometers WILL, repeat, WILL drift over timeand so you will need to make up a salt solution to check their accuracy OR have your LFS verify yours.
 
Wikipedia.com. It's a general site for anything, but they have thousands of fish pages with a lot of info. Anything you can imagine they have. I browse and add onto this site at times, and it's one of the best out there.

Liveaquaria.com. While they have some data wrong, it's a good place to start for BEGINNERS. They have a wide selction of saltwater fish, and they are known for excellent stock.
 
This is a good chart, called the Fish Compatibility chart.

It's easy to read and is accurate. It may take some time getting used to the font size. If your starting a new tank or want a new fish, but your not sure if it will work, this is a MUST READ!
 
This is a good chart, called the Fish Compatibility chart.

It's easy to read and is accurate. It may take some time getting used to the font size. If your starting a new tank or want a new fish, but your not sure if it will work, this is a MUST READ!
Added this in the other thread, but thought I would add here as it's a pinned thread:

Almost every "yes" in the above link is somewhere from risky to dangerous to add with a frog. It's strange that someone has chosen to include them in such a general fish. Most experienced keepers of frogfish recommend keeping them on their own. Generally, anything that is too large to be eaten is either at risk of eating the frog, or picking at the camouflage on the frog until the frog dies.

So basically, the above link is pretty good, but ignore pretty much everything in the frogfish column.
 
I'd like to add an article talking about the importance of quarantining. I'd previously been told that QTing was very important and I agreed it probably was, but since marine ich is always in a tank....

Why Quarantine, right?​


Wrong.... it's not necessarily always in a tank. It's a parasite that has to have a host...
Quarantie Article
 
An article on the very popular Anthias:

Keeping the Jewels of the Reef:
The Anthias of the Genus Pseudanthias


By: Scott W Michael

Scott Michael
Scott W. Michael is an internationally-recognized writer, underwater photographer, and marine biology researcher specializing in reef fishes, and was a speaker at our 2007 conference. He is a regular contributor to Aquarium Fish magazine, SeaScope, and is the author of Reef Fishes Vol 1, Vol 2, and Vol 3, Reef Sharks & Rays of the World, and Aquarium Sharks & Rays. Having studied marine biology at the University of Nebraska, Scott has served as a scientific consultant for National Geographic Explorer, the Discovery Channel, and French educational television.
 
http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic23945-9-1.aspx

Article by Eric Borneman

Hi Eric, I was hoping you could help me to understand better what it means for a system to "mature" or "become established". Hobbyists (me included) are always saying not to keep that sps or this anenome for a least a year until your system has matured. What exactly are the differences between a tank which finished cycling a month ago and one that finished cycling 11 months ago? Does it have to do with water parameters being more stable? Does it have to do with natural food availability? Does "tank maturity" pertain more to those who utilize a DSB, because it takes 6 months for a DSB to become functional ?<<
 

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