Rasboras Dying, Danios At Surface Of Water
- Thread starter Freedom
- Start date
I've merged the topics together, so there is less confusion going forward.
Again, I ask this question...
Incidentally, rasboras and danios are far more salt tolerant than cories, so if the cories were unaffected by the salt, then the rasboras and danios should be as well.
eaglesaquarium said:
Again, I ask this question...
Incidentally, rasboras and danios are far more salt tolerant than cories, so if the cories were unaffected by the salt, then the rasboras and danios should be as well.
TwoTankAmin
Fish Connoisseur
The combo of ammonia and nitrite killed the fish.
Ammonia can be handled by changing a lot of water as long as permanent harm hasn't been done. Fish naturally produce toxic wastes in their bodies as all animals do. They actually produce NH3 which gets passes out through the gills. When ambient ammonia levels rise they make it increasingly hard to do this. When external levels get high enough, no ammonia will leave the fish's system. So by doing a large water change and reducing the ambuent levels, one ov=pens the way for the fish to again excrete internal ammonia.
It is not the same for nitrite. Once inside a fish it takes some time to work its way back out. Removing 100% of the ambient nitrite in a tank does nothing to help with the excretion process. It has to take a day or two to work its way out completely. So what we as fish keepers are doing ids to trying to prevent further nitrite from entering the fish. This can be accomplished in one of two ways. Water changes to hold nitrite down, and/or the use of chloride to block the nitrite by out competing it. Both the nitrite and the chloride use the same receptors to get into the blood.
The result of this difference is that even when one is able to do a huge water change to to bring high ammonia and nitrite levels down close to 0, the nitrite a;ready inside the fish can still kill it.
One last note on the parameters reported.If my memory serves me, The API low range kit only goes down to 6.0. That means when you get such a reading that the pH might be 6.0 but it also might be lower. ear in mind that if the tank was cycled and running at a pH above 6.5, and then the pH drops to 6 or below, there is likely to be a loss of bacteria. At the very least the cycling process will be retarded. Because the pH is down the ammonia is almost all NH4 and way way less harmful to fish. If the pH is then raised back up one can get a big cycling issue.
I have run tanks at a pH of about 4.2 and to be able to test then had to purchase digital testers since the hobby kits do not work at those levels. I actually would run the API test and then digital test side by side. The API kit was fine until the pH levels went under 6. The they read 4.2 and 6 as the same thing.
Ammonia can be handled by changing a lot of water as long as permanent harm hasn't been done. Fish naturally produce toxic wastes in their bodies as all animals do. They actually produce NH3 which gets passes out through the gills. When ambient ammonia levels rise they make it increasingly hard to do this. When external levels get high enough, no ammonia will leave the fish's system. So by doing a large water change and reducing the ambuent levels, one ov=pens the way for the fish to again excrete internal ammonia.
It is not the same for nitrite. Once inside a fish it takes some time to work its way back out. Removing 100% of the ambient nitrite in a tank does nothing to help with the excretion process. It has to take a day or two to work its way out completely. So what we as fish keepers are doing ids to trying to prevent further nitrite from entering the fish. This can be accomplished in one of two ways. Water changes to hold nitrite down, and/or the use of chloride to block the nitrite by out competing it. Both the nitrite and the chloride use the same receptors to get into the blood.
The result of this difference is that even when one is able to do a huge water change to to bring high ammonia and nitrite levels down close to 0, the nitrite a;ready inside the fish can still kill it.
One last note on the parameters reported.If my memory serves me, The API low range kit only goes down to 6.0. That means when you get such a reading that the pH might be 6.0 but it also might be lower. ear in mind that if the tank was cycled and running at a pH above 6.5, and then the pH drops to 6 or below, there is likely to be a loss of bacteria. At the very least the cycling process will be retarded. Because the pH is down the ammonia is almost all NH4 and way way less harmful to fish. If the pH is then raised back up one can get a big cycling issue.
I have run tanks at a pH of about 4.2 and to be able to test then had to purchase digital testers since the hobby kits do not work at those levels. I actually would run the API test and then digital test side by side. The API kit was fine until the pH levels went under 6. The they read 4.2 and 6 as the same thing.
OK so the salt was not the issue. At least, I now feel better that "I" didn't directly kill them, by adding that salt. I added 3 crystals from the Aquarium salt container. Mixed / melted in tank water first.eaglesaquarium said:
Thank you for merging the 2 threads.
OK so, the rummy nose died first as they are more susceptible (as I've read online), even though they were slightly larger than the rasboras. Just took longer for the rasboras.TwoTankAmin said:
So the corys may also still be getting their systems cleared, which could help explain them being so morose and just sitting on the bottom. However they have been normal active for the past hour, as I put their food in.
I have no idea what triggered this disaster, that is a mystery to me, still.
Going to try my usual routine with this tank again, with the one exception of testing daily for a few days. Hope this mess is behind me.
Oh! One other thing I notice: the 2 moss balls in this tank are more yellow than they used to be. The 2 in the other, healthy, tank are still the deep green. (All4 were purchased within 4 days of one another, so age wise they are the same). Don't know if this suggests anything to folks.
TwoTankAmin
Fish Connoisseur
High ammonia or nitrite can also harm plants.
Here we go again. Got up this morning (late late, only been up 45 minutes), and knew right away I had an issue AGAIN. The room with this tank smells awful. Did a test while I have my coffee, etc. Nitrates and Nitrites are zero.
Ammonia is sky high. pH is 6.2 and, based on my daily readings, dropping.
Going to do another water change. This is beyond frustrating! I have added sponge media to the filter ( weeks and weeks ago, now). I used Stability a few times abou 3 weeks ago. Use Prime with each and every bucket as I do a water change. WHY aren't the good bacteria there eating up the ammonia!
Guess I'll add some Stability again today, see if I can get more good bacteria in there.
Ammonia is sky high. pH is 6.2 and, based on my daily readings, dropping.
Going to do another water change. This is beyond frustrating! I have added sponge media to the filter ( weeks and weeks ago, now). I used Stability a few times abou 3 weeks ago. Use Prime with each and every bucket as I do a water change. WHY aren't the good bacteria there eating up the ammonia!
Guess I'll add some Stability again today, see if I can get more good bacteria in there.
TwoTankAmin
Fish Connoisseur
Well lets start with the fact that Stability does not contain any of the autrophic nitrifying bacteria that handle ammonia and nitrite. The tell you that it only contains spores and the nitrifying bacteria do not form spores. What Seachem tries to do re Stability is convince folks that autrophic nitrifiers are not what you want.
I know that some people swear by Stability, However, I would not use it in any of my tanks even if they offered to pay me and to gave me the stuff for free.
If you want to use packaged bacteria, then get Dr Tim's One and Only Nitrifying Bacteria or try Tetra Safe Start. Otherwise use media and/or gravel from an established tank to see or even use live plants to help. These all will contain some of the bacteria you need. Dr. Tim's and a bit of ammonia should fully cycle a tank in about a week.
The reason your tank is not cycling is you appear lost about what you should be doing. I would be happy to work with you one on one to help you get your tank cycled and to get the parameters stable. I do have one condition for doing this with anybody who accepts my offer. While I am working with you, you agree to listen only to my advice and follow it to the letter. If you are interested, drop me a PM.
I know that some people swear by Stability, However, I would not use it in any of my tanks even if they offered to pay me and to gave me the stuff for free.
If you want to use packaged bacteria, then get Dr Tim's One and Only Nitrifying Bacteria or try Tetra Safe Start. Otherwise use media and/or gravel from an established tank to see or even use live plants to help. These all will contain some of the bacteria you need. Dr. Tim's and a bit of ammonia should fully cycle a tank in about a week.
The reason your tank is not cycling is you appear lost about what you should be doing. I would be happy to work with you one on one to help you get your tank cycled and to get the parameters stable. I do have one condition for doing this with anybody who accepts my offer. While I am working with you, you agree to listen only to my advice and follow it to the letter. If you are interested, drop me a PM.
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