Questions

right, im using this topic for ALL my questions that i keep thinking of ( we could be here a while :lol:)

1) Should you move sand fromo underneath live rock, or do you put it ontop of sand?

2) Can you just stack liverock normally or do you have to silicon them together or something?

3) I saw 2 different test kits, marine and reefm is there a difference?

more to come when i remember them ;)

thanks for all your answers so far
 
right, im using this topic for ALL my questions that i keep thinking of ( we could be here a while :lol:)

That's good. I've realized that this is preferred over starting 50 new topics :)

1) Should you move sand from underneath live rock, or do you put it ontop of sand?
Push the live rock down to the bottom of the tank. Many people use cheap base rock for this part since it'll be buried by sand anyway. The exposed parts will become live over time also.

Another good way to do it is get the rock in first and then pour the sand around it :)

2) Can you just stack liverock normally or do you have to silicon them together or something?
You stack it. Use the bump test. Don't fit it solid, but don't leave it wobbly either. Try to arrange it so there are spaces, but so that it doesn't fall over. If you tap it and it's wobbly choose a different rock or try a different position. Experiment when you start setting up :)

Some people silicone, but I'd hate to try to move the rocks or the setup later after they are all glued :crazy:

3) I saw 2 different test kits, marine and reefm is there a difference?
Marine, I believe has just basic stuff. Reef has more usefull tests for reef systems. Here's an example.

marine API test kit: Tests include high range pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate

API reef marine test kit: Tests calcium, carbonate hardness, phosphate and nitrate levels

I don't have one yet, but according to what I've read, you really only need the marine. The latter are good for hard to keep corals or if you suspect there's a problem. I don't think there'd be to big of a problem with the calcium, unless there were lots of critters that needed to absorb it or water changes weren't kept up on and the levels were depleted. Hopefully ski will go further into this part :)
 
thanks for all your answers :)

both you and ski have been very helpful :good:
 
next question....

i've read about calcium, phosphate and other levels, can you tell me what the ideal levels are for these? I don't think theres a pinned topic on it

ty, orange shark
 
Calcium 400-500 mg/L
Phosphate should be near 0
Alkalinity should be above 8 dKH

:)
I don't know the others off hand
 
next question....

i've read about calcium, phosphate and other levels, can you tell me what the ideal levels are for these? I don't think theres a pinned topic on it

ty, orange shark

The reason there isn't a pin is because its different for every tank... Natural Seawater has approximately:

Salinity 35ppt
Sg 1.026
Calcium ~400ppm (variable)
Alkalinity ~8dKH (variable)
Magnesium ~1280ppm (variable but not quite as much)
Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate 0ppm
Phosphate 0ppm

I keep some pretty sensitive corals and so I like to try and keep my values a little higher than normal for calc/alk/mg. I shoot for but rarely attain:

Salinity 35ppt
Sg 1.026
Calcium ~450ppm
Alkalinity ~11dKH
Magnesium ~1350ppm
Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate 0ppm
Phosphate 0ppm

If you're not keeping corals, you really only need concern yourself with salinity, and phosphate. Ammonia/nitrite/nitrate occasionally should be tested for.
 
well i intend to start off as a FOWLR but then after i've got the hang of it add corals and make it a reef!
 
Well then start with the basics, get to know your salinity, and purchase a basic ammonia/nitrite/nitrate/high range pH saltwater test kit. As you get ready for corals, you can start looking into the chemical relationships between calcium, alkalinity, magnesium, and pH. I'd reccomend an affordable refractometer over a cheap hydrometer. While maybe not accurate over a great range, the affordable refractometers can be calibrated at 1.026sg and will be very very reliable and precise over time. Cheapo hydrometers tend to drift their calibration over time and can get aquarists in trouble fast.

Also, if you're going reef eventually have you considered using a sump?
 
the tank im getting one has one built in at the back!

I'm going to check what my lfs water salinity is as i will be getting most of my things from there

im deffinately getting a refractometer because ive read about how unreliable hydrometers can be, how much would a semi decent one cost?
 
Although I don't live on your side of the pond, I seem to remember people over there saying they can be found online, ebay, etc for somewhere in the 30-40GBP area
 
ouch, huge difference to hydrometers then!

Looks like my skimmer money is going on that then!
 

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