Questions Before I Begin

I thought I would give a little update on the progress of my tank.  I have added some plants, which you can see in the picture below.  They include Anubias (not sure what kind), Hygrophila Corymbosa Stricta, Java Fern, Water Wisteria, Cryptocoryne wendtii, Dwarf Hairgrass, and a Marimo Moss ball.  When I began the cycle a week ago I dosed ammonia to 2ppm since I was also adding Tetra Safe Start.  It has stayed there consistantly this week although today it looks closer to 1pmm than 2 (I'm having a hard time with the colors
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 ).  Nitrite has been 0 at every test.  Nitrate looks like it might be making an appearance, somewhere between 0 and 5, as it turned a very dark yellow but not quite orange (today's test).  I'm not sure if the plants will help much as they are small and it is not "heavily planted."  I also added an extra filter (a Tetra Whisper 10i) as it was only $8 and I figured the extra flow might help with oxygen for the bacteria. 
 
As to the tap water here, I am honestly still at a loss.  The call to the water board was unhelpful and, in regards to ph, more confusing.  After letting some sit out for 24 hours and testing it, ph was still at 8.2.  After shaking vigorously and testing, still 8.2.  My tank has come down to 8.0, which I'm assuming is due to the mopani wood but I can't expect that to last forever.  However the water board said it is 7.4.  They confirmed my GH at 78.8ppm but had no clue about the KH.  When she asked me what it stood for I told her nevermind and hung up.  Yes, I was very frustrated by that point as it had taken me 20 minutes just to get that far. The only thing I have not yet done is take a sample of my water to the LFS to have it tested, which I will probably do sometime this week.  I'll admit I'm not very hopeful about different results.
 
This still leaves me with what kind of fish would be suitable?  I'm not having much luck in my research.  The only fish I've found that seem to do well in that high of a ph are African Chichlids but my tank is not large enough for that and I would need to boost the gh.  Plus, my boss now wants to give me the 55 gallon at work that is full of Yellow labs (which is something I'm sure will be another thread).  The conclusion I've come to is that I'm going to have to adjust something but what's easier, ph or gh?  Or do I choose a fish type that I like and adjust for them? I guess I'm still just unsure about where to go with it.
 
On the bright side, I've got time as the tank is still in it's infancy of cycling.  Any comments or advice is, as always, greatly appreciated.Fish Tank.jpg
 
If this were me, I would sort out the pH issue before deciding anything else.  If the water board says the pH is 7.4 but it is 8.2, there must be a reason.  Do they have a website, and can you post the link if they do?  I'll take a look and see if I can find any clue.
 
The test of tap water that stood out is good; the out-gas of CO2 could have made the pH go higher, but as it didn't then at least you are getting accurate results.  Though there is always the possibility that your pH test could be faulty; the regents do give out over time.  A test of pH by a reliable store would be a good idea just in case.  Make sure to out-gas the CO2.  Don't take water from the tank as you have been adding ammonia and that can affect things.
 
Another thought occurs, which test are you using?  The "normal" test is the one you should use here, not the "high" test which can give different results for the same water.
 
Now that you have plants, I would not add any more ammonia; you might kill the plants.  Ammonia is toxic to plants the same as fish and all animals and some bacteria.
 
Byron.
 
Thanks for the reply Byron. I've tested the ph with both the high and the normal test with the API Master test kit.  The normal went to a much darker blue than 7.6 that the guide indicates which is why I went to the high ph guide.  The website for our water district is www.hcmud153.com if you think you may be able to find out some information. 
 
Also, I will not add any more ammonia due to the addition of plants.  Should I do a water change to bring it down or let it go as is until the reading becomes 0?
 
Even less data there than what you ascertained by calling them.  I am still wondering why your tap water pH is nearly one full point above what they say is the norm.  Let's see what your test in the fish store tells.  Make sure you get numbers for any tests they do, not vague terms like "normal" or similar.
 
As for the ammonia, if it is now at 1 ppm I would just let it go.
 
Previously, you mentioned yellow labs, presumably the rift lake cichlid fish species.  These must have hard water, so if you are going to take these you will need to raise the GH.  The easiest way for rift lake fish is with one of the sands made from crushed coral and aragonite.  CarribSea make these, and other manufacturers too.  Don't get the marine sand, it will likely have salt.  But I have used CarribSea's coral/aragonite sand to raise GH.  This is far less expensive and safer than buying mineral salts for rift lake fish.  The GH and pH will rise and remain there for years with a substrate of coral/aragonite.  The aragonite is important because it has magnesium as well as calcium, whereas straight coral is calcium.  The magnesium is important too.
 
Byron.
 

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