Problems With Plant Growth In New Setup

terrycb

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Hi – I’m looking for some advice, as I’m not happy with my plant growth/appearance in my recently (3 months) set up 5’ circa 75 gallon freshwater aquarium. I’ve kept freshwater tropicals for about 20 years with no major problems. My most recent tank was about 40 gallons and with homemade CO2, the plant growth was pretty good, to such an extent that when I took it down to replace with the larger tank I sold loads of Anubias and Crypts to my local pet shop. I never measured PH or anything else in that tank.
So you can imagine my disappointment now after having my new tank setup with pressurised CO2 to find plants not growing very well and very anaemic looking.

In my recently set up system I wanted a greater emphasis on plant growth and have tried to be a bit more sophisticated about the equipment. The NEW tank details are as follows:
75 gallons, 18†depth of water, temperature 78 degrees, substrate- coarse sand above a layer of gravel with Red Sea Flora Root between the two layers, total substrate depth 3â€.
Lighting on about 10 hours a day and is currently by 4 x 4’ tubes as follows:
Interpet Daylight 36 w
Zoo Med Flora Sun 32 w
Triton 38 w
Sun Glow 40 w.
There are no reflectors although the lights are screwed onto the lid of the tank which is painted white (although faded a bit). I am thinking about changing to Interpet T5 High Power compact system, but in the short term I could add another 4’ tube to the existing (I have the equipment). Filtration is via a Tetratec 1200 external filter.

I am using a CO2 system from LunaPet in Germany with a solenoid to give CO2 for about 12 hours a day. I have an internal reactor from the same company and bubbles through the counter are currently approx 90 -100 minute. I am getting “pearling†bubbles off plants during the latter part of the day. The PH level (metered) is between 7.2 and 7.4 hardness, Hardness measured using card test strips is around 10, but I am not totally sure on this as the colour difference on the chart between 7 and 14 is not great.

The plants are various and include Anubias, Java Fern, Giant Vallis, Hygrophilia Polysperma, diffent Crypts – including Balansae, Cordata, Nevii, several Bacopas. Speciman plants Echinodorus Paniculatus (?) and Apongeton Ulvaceus. The tank is populated by about 50 fish including Tetras, Rainbows, Barbs, Corys. Bristlenose Cats and a Pleco.
I am water changing every 2 weeks about 15 – 20%

The problem I have is that the plants are not growing well and not very lush/green looking. Vallis leaves are yellowish and semi transparent, the Hygrophilia leaves are falling off in large numbers and the Crpyts look anaemic and slightly shrivelled. I have green algae on the inside of the glass, which comes back within a week of cleaning.

Any HELP to resolve this issue would be much appreciated, I can attach some phots if it helps.
 
Any fertilisers going in there? High light and CO2 are two things which will really push the other nutrient requirements of the tank. I think you are roughly at 2wpg so with CO2 your plants will be quickly using up any nutrients - if you are not adding enough back in then the plants will suffer. For 2wpg and CO2 you may be a good candidate for EI (see pinned thread) which can work really well in high light, CO2 adding tanks - needs a 50% weekly water change but is certainly proved as a planted tank fertilisation scheme!

As a side note, poor plant growth = algae. Your plants are not growing well (as far as I can tell!) due to lack of nutrients - any plant problems and algae will take a good hold.
 
Hi - thks for yours, what I am surprised at is that my old setup roughly half volume water, half light (2 x 38 w in a 40 gallon tank) reasonable CO2 via DIY and no added fertilisation, should have been prolific with plant growth, whereas new setup is so poor?? Are you suggesting I have high CO2 and light levels? Thanks terry
 
Your old tank had 1.9 watts per gallon, your new tank has 1.9 watts per gallon so both have the same light levels for the actual volume of the tank.

Are you monitoring/checking CO2 levels? Do you know you are managing the suggested 30ppm ideal? Vallis, hygophillia etc are fast growers - with good light and CO2 levels they will really eat up any nutrients available. Once nutrients run out then then all plant growth and health will suffer as you are finding.
 
I have only just started measuring CO2 levels a week or so ago (with a pen type monitor) as i mentioned in initial topic I am not clear as to the hardness, as the card strips used to measure don't give too clear a reading, so hardness could be anywhere between 8 and 14 which does not make it easy to calculate CO2 level. Any recommendations as to a better way of measuring hardness without spending a fortune on equipment? For additional CO2 check I am using a drop checker which shows up green.
 
Terry,

My guess is that you do not have enough CO2 in there. Forget about correlating KH with pH, because there are too many unknown factors affecting the accuracy of the reading. Use a CO2 drop checker with a 4dKH solution.

Slowly increase the CO2 over the day, keeping an eye on your fish becoming lethargic. You should be aiming for lots of pearling.

Dave.
 
Your old tank had 1.9 watts per gallon, your new tank has 1.9 watts per gallon so both have the same light levels for the actual volume of the tank.

Are you monitoring/checking CO2 levels? Do you know you are managing the suggested 30ppm ideal? Vallis, hygophillia etc are fast growers - with good light and CO2 levels they will really eat up any nutrients available. Once nutrients run out then then all plant growth and health will suffer as you are finding.

Thks for that, I am studying the EI fert. system - where in the UK can you get hold of the various nutrients listed - at reasonable prices? In the meantime I have several bottles of Tropica Aquacare liquid water plant nutrition and propose using it as a fertiliser. One other thing looking at the brochure of one of the plant suppliers it seems that 28 degrees is the top temp for a lot of their listed plants. Could too high a water temperature be an issue?
 
www.apuaessentials.co.uk sell the EI powders, around £5 per 250g pack which will last ages! You can then use the Tropica Plant Nutrition as the trace aspect of EI. Tropica Plant Nutrition does not contain the N, P and K parts which EI adds hence the need for the powder stuff aswell.
 
www.apuaessentials.co.uk sell the EI powders, around £5 per 250g pack which will last ages! You can then use the Tropica Plant Nutrition as the trace aspect of EI. Tropica Plant Nutrition does not contain the N, P and K parts which EI adds hence the need for the powder stuff aswell.

I was in a tropica suppliers the other day and they had tropica plant nutritian plus and its says it contains N and P is this any good
 
You should also have a look at the PMDD method (which I think should have a sticky thread about it here). PMDD is similar to EI but but with these differences:

- liquid mixture, not dry ferts
- you dose 1 or more drops per day depending on the size of your tank
- no phosphates as an excess of this promotes algae growth
- double the potassium sulphate content compared to EI
- water change not as much as 50%

I'm by no means an expert on fertilization nor PMDD but this may seems to be easier to use than EI.
 
You should also have a look at the PMDD method (which I think should have a sticky thread about it here). PMDD is similar to EI but but with these differences:

- liquid mixture, not dry ferts
- you dose 1 or more drops per day depending on the size of your tank
- no phosphates as an excess of this promotes algae growth
- double the potassium sulphate content compared to EI
- water change not as much as 50%

I'm by no means an expert on fertilization nor PMDD but this may seems to be easier to use than EI.

Hi - thks for that I'll check it out.
 

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