Power Cord Replacement On Canister Filter

[KatDis84]

I have inherited a fully working hydor prime 20 but the previous owner had a) removed the plug and b) insulated the wire which has a tear in the black cable housing with normal insulation tape. I have managed to take the filter apart and expose the cable insertion but otherwise I have found out it's 25w but otherwise I don't know what cable to buy to replace it with or what plug or anything. It just has blue and brown wires I that any help! Any assistance would be much much appreciated

 

[sheffieldlad]

I have inherited a fully working hydor prime 20 but the previous owner had a) removed the plug and b) insulated the wire which has a tear in the black cable housing with normal insulation tape. I have managed to take the filter apart and expose the cable insertion but otherwise I have found out it's 25w but otherwise I don't know what cable to buy to replace it with or what plug or anything. It just has blue and brown wires I that any help! Any assistance would be much much appreciated

Brown = live Blue = neutral.
re terminate these in place of the old cable at the filter end.
brown in the fused pin of your new 13amp plug head, blue in the opposite pin (NOT the top one.)
.75 mil flex (2 core no earth) will be fine as it will be a 'class II' appliance.
You should fuse the plug with a 3 amp fuse.

Hope this helps

-Paul

EDIT:

Forgot to mention...

If the cable entry is in/near the water it MUST be water tight.

 

[KatDis84]

Thank you Paul this does help a great deal. Filter will be nowhere near the water but unfortunately where wire begins you cannot access in the filter housing, would a special link bought from a hardware shop be good enough (obviously providing this too is water tight)? The wire disappears into completely sealed plastic as if the plastic has been moulded around it so changing it from source is unfortunately impossible. It can however be changed from a point prior to exit from the filter housing, which has polystyrene in the lid as insulation- really surprised ne when I found this.
Thank you so much once again,
Kathryn

 

[sheffieldlad]

Thank you Paul this does help a great deal. Filter will be nowhere near the water but unfortunately where wire begins you cannot access in the filter housing, would a special link bought from a hardware shop be good enough (obviously providing this too is water tight)? The wire disappears into completely sealed plastic as if the plastic has been moulded around it so changing it from source is unfortunately impossible. It can however be changed from a point prior to exit from the filter housing, which has polystyrene in the lid as insulation- really surprised ne when I found this.
Thank you so much once again,
Kathryn

Yes it should be fine as long as the connections are nice and tight and no water can get to the terminations.

Hope it goes OK.

-Paul

 

[mishmash]

Most manufacturers wil tell you in the instructions that if the power cable is damaged then the pump head should be replaced. This is why you cannot get to the part in the head unit where the cable terminates. Can you put up pics of the problem ? It would prevent any misinterpretation, which is important considering we are talking about electrical safety

 

[JonE]

I've used these sort of things to repair damaged flex on appliances at work when I've not been able to get into the casing to replace it completely, the IP rating is the important part the first number refers to the protection of ingress of dust/particles the second number the protection of ingress from water 68 is generally the best you'll get being 6 = Dust tight and 8 = suitable for immersion. Just make sure you follow any instructions provided with the connector correctly.

Cheers

Jon

 

[KatDis84]

Would post a pic but my iPod doesn't support posting a photo on here. The outer casing of the flex has been damaged and that is why I wanted to replace it, have ordered the connector on screwfix now (already bought flex and plug etc) thank you so much for your help, really grateful