Possible Cyano Algae

SumpItUp

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Hi,

I bought a well established second hand tank setup 4 months ago now, transported it to my house and it has been running fine after an initial settling in period. However, almost 3 weeks ago, one of the small hermit crabs died (all others are fine and healthy) and I stupidly left it in the tank thinking the other members of the clean up crew would gobble it up as I would expect in any ecosystem and it would be an interesting process to watch (lesson no 1: DO NOT DO THIS). Although some of it disappeared not all of it did and after a few days a red algae started to form around the grave. I fished out the remains at this point and got up as much of the red algae as I could. When I picked it up, it came off almost like a fragile sheet of cling film from the sand. I also read around on the forums and reduced the light cycle to 8 hours (was 10) and have halved the food intake to the fish and coral every second day. Water chemistry tests are good, and been doing a weekly water change of 20% (always RO) as opposed to a 10% water change every 2 weeks. I changed the metal halide light and I also pointed the powerhead at the spot where the algae was to disrupt the growth, however this has been a bad idea as the alagae seems to have spread around a bit - Lesson no 2 perhaps - dont blast it with current?

The algae is a red / maroon color and in dense areas, small ribbons of it rise up. The vacuum breaks it up and it clumps up into the ribbons making it too heavy to pull up the tube so it falls back down with the sand. Best way to remove it is to let it develop then turn off all pumps and then try and lift it out in it's cling film like sheets without it breaking up, but this is fiddly and not 100% successful. From what I have read it sounds like cyano but not entirely sure??????

The tank is around 200 litres with a fair bit of live rock, a sump tank (with approx 90 litres of water in it at any one time) which consists of japanese matting and foam, a miracle mud system with some vegetation in it and protein skimmer and this keeps the water crystal clear and water chemistry good. The tank is not overly stocked - 5 small fish (a small tang, a clown, 2 damsel, a wrasse), crabs and snails, a young small reef lobster, an adult starfish, lots of little white starfish that must have come from live rock and a few coral frags that have started to establish themselves and grow (from what i have read this means the chemistry must be good in order for the corals to thrive). I do get the odd bit of what I would class "normal" algae (green/brown) on the glass which a run over with the magnetic glass cleaner sorts out every few days, but the red stuff I want to get stopped before it becomes a harder problem to sort out.

Currently. the algae seems to be more widespread but less dense - starting to worry me.

Has anyone any advice?

Many Thanks

Adam
 
Whats the TDS of your RO and what Salt are you using. Do you employ a DI unit. You seemed to have covered all the other possible options
Whats lighting your sump and whats the photoperiod of your tank and sump.
Regards
C
 
Definitely sounds like cyanobacteria. Answering BigC's questions is a good place to start :)
 
Thanks for your reply guys. The RO water comes from the local aquarium shop and I don't have a meter to measure tds I am afraid. The salt I add is Instant Ocean and I mix this to 1.023. The sump light is on all the time and uses an aqualglow t8 20w bulb - this may seem an obvious question but do you recommend putting this on a short light cycle too?
 
Id check the TDS from the LFS first. I bougt some in an emergency once. (my own container) and the TDS was over 30 (not good at all)
Instant Ocean I've never used, have you been using this brand long. I got a bout of Cyno with D&D recently. I like to keep the sump lit 24/7 using a daylight energysaver 18w 6500k mini spiral. My Sg for example is 1.026.
I would maybe up the bulb wattage in the sump to a daylight energysaver and check out the TDS of your water.
BigC

PS my main aquarium lighting is only on for 8hrs per day.
 
I am feeding fish flakes on a daily basis except on a weekend where I deforst a frozen shrimp block and feed half on a sat, other half on sunday.

For the coral, I have an orange liquid which the guy I bought it off used but the label has long gone so I don't know the brand. I apply a minimal ammount every other day, and think this is ok as the coral are thiving. The salt brand is the same as I have used all along.

The only real difference is the snail dying which I now realise knackers the water, just need to eliminate the algae now. To try and nail it, what is the least I could feed the fish and minimum light cycle I could put the metal halide on until it clears up? If I adopted this method and performed daily vacuum and 10% tank change, would this cause the fish and corals to stress, and if so would it be worth the risk if the algae is cleared up?

I will look at getting a more powerful sump light, I do have a new one so will fit that tomorrow at least. By reducing the lightcycle on the sump, would that be beneficial or counter productive?

Thanks again guys
 
doubt it anything to do with your feeding then.
Hows the flow? whats the turnover rate? and is there and dead spots?
 
At 4 months your tank could still be settling in, I know you say it was a well established tank but how much die off did you have on the rock ect?

but having said that a nutrient rich water problem is the prime culprit. you say you are feeding the fish 7 days a week and the corals every other day , I would guess that there is a lot of leftover food particles that are breaking down into harmful excess nutrients. Add Light plus dissolved organic material ( D.O.C ), and you have a great recipe for the preferred Eco-System of CyanoBacteria.:crazy:
I only feed fish 1 cube every other day, I defrost ½ a cube then rinse the liquid away through a net with RO water then place the food in a small bowl and add tank water and pour into the tank over 5 mins I then repeat this again later on in the day with the other ½ of the cube. As for the corals I only feed 2-3 times a week my lights on the tank are on for 8hrs a day and my sump light is on 24/7

Things to do:

Large water change and take the opportunity to vacuum up as much of the Cyno as you can.

Skim like mad!

Increase water flow within the tank. Really try to avoid dead spots.

Reduce feeding to a minimum!
john,o
 
Yeah, you can switch to an every other day feeding regimen if you have to. I too would test the TDS of the LFS water. The LFS' RO unit often isn't the greatest as they pretty much run theirs 24/7. Just a product of their situation having to supply so much.
 
Haven't checked the TDS yet but decided to buy my own RO unit as it will work out cheaper in the end and can double up to provide my 6 month old baby with filtered water for her drinks. At the weekend I manually removed the algae (like the skin of a rice pudding) and hoovered up as much of the strands as I could but this seemed to just pick it up and deposit it when the vacuum was lifted from the sand bed so grabbed as much as I could from the pile by hand. I followed this up with a 20% tank change. I have fed the fish every other day and the cyano is returning but at a slower rate and furthermore, with the fish being a bit more hungry and the algae a little less rife I have noticed the tang is picking at the bits of algae that are reforming. Thinking of taking the follwoing action:

i) turn the metal halide down from 8 hours to 6 hours
ii) keep feeding the fish every other day, coral twice a week unless any malnutrition is spotted
iii) keep manually removing the algae by hand once an area of an inch square has developed and vacuum out as much of the remnants as possible and in the process will inevitably suck out a bucket full of water in the process and thus have regular small tank changes

Also this post has highlighted a couple of other things to look at other than RO. I haven't worked out what my flow rate is, but made me think about the water being collected. The tank that was bought was home-drilled but this was a point of weakness and cracked during transit so I had to buy another tank on the day. To avoid this weakness I bought some more glass and siliconed strips around the top to raise the top of the tank by a couple of inches apart from 4 inches at the back left at original tank height. In this 4 inches I made a perspex box, cut a grid into it and connected it to the sump. The water level is higher than the original top of the tank (but below the top of the siliconed glass strips obviously) then this perspex box acts as a weir to feed the sump - works really well, is simple, strong, with no siphon problems and completely reliable. However, the feed from the sump is below the weir and pointing down, but I think I can reposition this for better flow and thus avoid any seepage from any minor flow from the outlet to the weir and thus refilter filtered water - water chemistry is good though, but always looking for improvements. Only issue is when I repositioned the powerhead to blast the cyano it changed the currents within the tank and this led to a few unhappy corals as they had over the last few months got into postions where they were happy with the water flow so will have to be careful.

Will keep you posted, and any other advice would be great.

Thanks

Adam
 
Wait, you're giving your 6 month old baby straight RO water, or are you mixing it with something?

Your tank ideas are on the right track, keep goin :)
 

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