Platy looks unwell - help please!

abanole

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Hi everyone, I have a 12 litre tank with 3 platys - 2 female and 1 male.

Jimmy is the male and was bullied incessantly by Rose the female until we added another female.

There was evidence of tail nibbling which has resulted in visual tail damage. The end has turned a black colour and additionally Jimmy has white marks that look fleshy on his skin.

They can be seen under certain light.

I’d be grateful for any opinions on whether this may be ice disease or a fungal infection.

We have a filter, regularly change a third of water adding treatment and have recently introduced salt.

Photos are poor but may help.

This is jimmy.
 

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I see no sign of Ich parasites, although a couple of the blurry photos look like there is some kind of white spotting. It could be the glass - the photos are fuzzy.

I'm thinking water quality, which can give an opening to a problem called Epistylis. A 12 ltr tank is a big problem - it is too small for 3 platys. I use some 12 ltrs for maybe half a dozen fry under 1 cm, if even that big. To maintain water quality for 3 platys and no other fish, I'd go with 40ltr minimum.
I know, that's me being a bearer of bad news.

Whatever the frequency of your water changes is, for now, you have to triple it. If you can get better photos of the affected platy, please share them with us. You will probably need a treatment with a malachite green/formalin medication, but if you raise the heat in a crowded tank that small, you'd probably kill the fish. Look up Epistylis online and see what you think. Your eye is better supplied than ours are.

Has the spotting spread beyond the one fish? And are the spots round and well defined, or is their fuzziness from the photos?
 
White spot (Ich) looks like small grains of salt sprinkled over the body and fins.

The fish has a bit of blood on the tail, which is an infection. Salt should treat it. See directions below for using salt.

The white stuff on the body could be excess mucous produced by the fish due to stress, injury or poor water quality. The fact the tail has been damaged would suggest excess mucous due to the attack. However, it's still a good idea to check the water quality for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH.

--------------------

Basic First Aid For Fish
Test the water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH.

Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge. This removes the biofilm on the glass and the biofilm will contain lots of harmful bacteria, fungus, protozoans and various other microscopic life forms.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week or until the problem is identified. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in. It also removes a lot of the gunk and this means any medication can work on treating the fish instead of being wasted killing the pathogens in the gunk.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use the media. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens so any medication (if needed) will work more effectively on the fish.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration to maximise the dissolved oxygen in the water.

--------------------

SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), swimming pool salt, or any non iodised salt (sodium chloride) to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres (5 gallons) of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate (1-2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
 
White spot (Ich) looks like small grains of salt sprinkled over the body and fins.

The fish has a bit of blood on the tail, which is an infection. Salt should treat it. See directions below for using salt.

The white stuff on the body could be excess mucous produced by the fish due to stress, injury or poor water quality. The fact the tail has been damaged would suggest excess mucous due to the attack. However, it's still a good idea to check the water quality for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH.

--------------------

Basic First Aid For Fish
Test the water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH.

Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge. This removes the biofilm on the glass and the biofilm will contain lots of harmful bacteria, fungus, protozoans and various other microscopic life forms.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week or until the problem is identified. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in. It also removes a lot of the gunk and this means any medication can work on treating the fish instead of being wasted killing the pathogens in the gunk.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use the media. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens so any medication (if needed) will work more effectively on the fish.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration to maximise the dissolved oxygen in the water.

--------------------

SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), swimming pool salt, or any non iodised salt (sodium chloride) to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres (5 gallons) of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate (1-2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
Thank you so much
 
I see no sign of Ich parasites, although a couple of the blurry photos look like there is some kind of white spotting. It could be the glass - the photos are fuzzy.

I'm thinking water quality, which can give an opening to a problem called Epistylis. A 12 ltr tank is a big problem - it is too small for 3 platys. I use some 12 ltrs for maybe half a dozen fry under 1 cm, if even that big. To maintain water quality for 3 platys and no other fish, I'd go with 40ltr minimum.
I know, that's me being a bearer of bad news.

Whatever the frequency of your water changes is, for now, you have to triple it. If you can get better photos of the affected platy, please share them with us. You will probably need a treatment with a malachite green/formalin medication, but if you raise the heat in a crowded tank that small, you'd probably kill the fish. Look up Epistylis online and see what you think. Your eye is better supplied than ours are.

Has the spotting spread beyond the one fish? And are the spots round and well defined, or is their fuzziness from the photos?
Thanks very much
 

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