Plant problems
- Thread starter kty
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You're most welcome. Keep us posted on developments. Remember that changes as major as lighting and fertilizers will affect the plants but you won't see their response overnight, or a few days. In other words, you are on the right track, just be patient.
In the US The tetra fertilizer is has a different name and and may not be the same as yours. But out of the 15 recognized nutrients plants need the US tetra fertilizer has only 2 nutrients. In my experience if you are short only one your plants may not grow.
Looking at the tetra fertilizer you have I cannot determine what is in it. I fear it is deficient in several nutrients. In fact most are deficient in at least 3. Now your tap water does have nutrients that may compensate for what is missing in the fertilizer. But sometimes your tap water and fertilizer is missing what your plants need.
In my experience the best fertilizers are the ones that cover as many of the nutrients plants need. As near as i can determine there are two good ones
- Sachem Flourish Comprehensive. Coves 14 of the 15. It is short of nickel. Eve though I have very soft water my aquarium is somehow getting enough nickel. Sachem designed this fertilizer to be a little weak in macros But fish food is rich in macro so it still does well in most cases.
- Brightwell Aquatics Florinmulti contains 13 of the needed 15 and is short nitrogen and phosphorous. Most aquariums have these in abundance. So you can ignore the deficiency and probably be OK or you can add some nitrogen or phosphorous as needed for your aquarium
I would recommend using one of the two fertilizers above.You can continue to use the can of CO2 but in my opinion you do not need it.
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kty
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Oh and I've ordered the fertilizers you all recommended.
The liquid one I have.... would that do any good in a cold water goldfish tank with just elodia and goldfish. There is no lighting just a filter. Just thought my son could put it to use so it wasn't wasted lol.
The liquid one I have.... would that do any good in a cold water goldfish tank with just elodia and goldfish. There is no lighting just a filter. Just thought my son could put it to use so it wasn't wasted lol.
You mentioned using test strips earlier, I would get this nitrate number confirmed with the data from your water authority. If it really is this high, it is not only a risk for fish but for humans, especially pregnant women and children.
Once you know the accurate nitrate level, and if it is on the high side (20 ppm is deemed safe max in general for fish) there are other members who have dealt with this problem (agricultural runoff to well water often sees high nitrates as an example) and can offer solutions. AbbeysDad is one member that comes to mind, he has solved this problem.
Byron.
I use tetra 6 in test strips and I mixed a solution of potassium nitrate to a 20ppm concentration. When I exposed the strips to that solution they read 20ppm. So in my opinion the strips my strips are accurate to 20ppm. I never tested 100ppm so i have no way of knowing if it is accurate at those levels.
I would agree with trying to confirm the number. Basic home test kits can sometimes give erroneous readings due to something else in the which may or may not be harmless. This doesn't happen that often but to be sure try and confirm your reading with the water authority.
Generally 20ppm is considered the maximum safe love although others people have posted form time to time of water with up to 40ppm and there appear appear to be fine. I my opinion ideal levels for a planted tank are between 5 and 10ppm. This is low enough to be safe for fish while high enough to avoid nitrogen deficiency which can cause a algae bloom.
abbeys dad found ways to filtering out nitrate from his water. Use this forum to send him an email. He might be able to help you. If your nitrates are truly 100ppm his advise would be very helpful.
/the only other things you can do is switch from tap water to to distilled or RO water. These are almost pure water. If you use this water you should use a GH booster to remineralize the pure water 3 degrees or about 53ppm. You could also customize the GH level to match the needs of your fish. You should also use one of the two fertilizers I recommend. Without the fertilizers your plants would be starved of nutrients and die. It also is generally not harmful to mix RO/Distilled water with tap water as long as your nitrate levels are safe after mixing. Most people buy distilled or RO water. But you can also install a home RO system to supply water for your aquarium or as well as drinking water.
I would agree with trying to confirm the number. Basic home test kits can sometimes give erroneous readings due to something else in the which may or may not be harmless. This doesn't happen that often but to be sure try and confirm your reading with the water authority.
Generally 20ppm is considered the maximum safe love although others people have posted form time to time of water with up to 40ppm and there appear appear to be fine. I my opinion ideal levels for a planted tank are between 5 and 10ppm. This is low enough to be safe for fish while high enough to avoid nitrogen deficiency which can cause a algae bloom.
abbeys dad found ways to filtering out nitrate from his water. Use this forum to send him an email. He might be able to help you. If your nitrates are truly 100ppm his advise would be very helpful.
/the only other things you can do is switch from tap water to to distilled or RO water. These are almost pure water. If you use this water you should use a GH booster to remineralize the pure water 3 degrees or about 53ppm. You could also customize the GH level to match the needs of your fish. You should also use one of the two fertilizers I recommend. Without the fertilizers your plants would be starved of nutrients and die. It also is generally not harmful to mix RO/Distilled water with tap water as long as your nitrate levels are safe after mixing. Most people buy distilled or RO water. But you can also install a home RO system to supply water for your aquarium or as well as drinking water.
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kty
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I've messaged Abbeys Dad.
I need to replace one of my filter media as the one in a bag has burst. If he managed to use filtration the maybe he can advise me what to replace it with. When I looked into it some of them are not advised for planted aquariums.
I need to replace one of my filter media as the one in a bag has burst. If he managed to use filtration the maybe he can advise me what to replace it with. When I looked into it some of them are not advised for planted aquariums.
AbbeysDad
Fish Gatherer
As mentioned, I have fought the good fight against nitrates in my source (well) water. I live in the 'country' across the road from a 95 acre farmers field that gets ample manure and chemical fertilizers.
As we all know, you remove nitrates from the aquarium with partial water changes, but this becomes impossible with high nitrates in your source water.
I experimented with Seachem Matrix/DeNitrate and Stability in an attempt to culture anaerobic bacteria to convert nitrates into nitrogen gas. Sadly, these attempts never produced positive results. At the same time I invested in a now discontinued API Tap Water Filter. It worked but the cartridge use life relative to the cost was about as expensive as buying bottled water. I later emptied a cartridge and filled it with API Nitra-Zorb and pre-filter water for water changes. The resin used is rechargeable many times with aquarium or (non iodized) table salt. API Nitra-zorb comes in pouches that can be placed in your filter to reduce nitrates. Although this approach works and the pouches are rechargeable with salt, the use life is reduced as the media eventually becomes compromised with detritus. However, this may be an answer, or partial answer for you.
There are also inline nitrate filters that are typically used for refrigerators, ice machines and such. With a simple adapter you just hook to your sink.
You 'could' go the route of an RO or RO/DI system, but I ruled them out. A good system is not cheap, uses about 4 gallons for every gallon of RO water and in my case, would require an additional pump for sufficient water pressure to force water through the membrane. In addition, you need to add 'stuff' to adjust for minerals and pH.
So....you either filter your source water and/or use a de-nitrate resin (like API Nitra-Zorb) in your filter to keep nitrates at bay. Alternatively, you might haul water for water changes from a nearby nitrate free source - but that gets old pretty quickly!
Having written ALL of that, a planted tank of fast growing plants (especially floaters) can go a long way in reducing tank generated nitrates AS IS good routine tank maintenance and using a sand rather than gravel substrate.
Tank on!
As we all know, you remove nitrates from the aquarium with partial water changes, but this becomes impossible with high nitrates in your source water.
I experimented with Seachem Matrix/DeNitrate and Stability in an attempt to culture anaerobic bacteria to convert nitrates into nitrogen gas. Sadly, these attempts never produced positive results. At the same time I invested in a now discontinued API Tap Water Filter. It worked but the cartridge use life relative to the cost was about as expensive as buying bottled water. I later emptied a cartridge and filled it with API Nitra-Zorb and pre-filter water for water changes. The resin used is rechargeable many times with aquarium or (non iodized) table salt. API Nitra-zorb comes in pouches that can be placed in your filter to reduce nitrates. Although this approach works and the pouches are rechargeable with salt, the use life is reduced as the media eventually becomes compromised with detritus. However, this may be an answer, or partial answer for you.
There are also inline nitrate filters that are typically used for refrigerators, ice machines and such. With a simple adapter you just hook to your sink.
You 'could' go the route of an RO or RO/DI system, but I ruled them out. A good system is not cheap, uses about 4 gallons for every gallon of RO water and in my case, would require an additional pump for sufficient water pressure to force water through the membrane. In addition, you need to add 'stuff' to adjust for minerals and pH.
So....you either filter your source water and/or use a de-nitrate resin (like API Nitra-Zorb) in your filter to keep nitrates at bay. Alternatively, you might haul water for water changes from a nearby nitrate free source - but that gets old pretty quickly!
Having written ALL of that, a planted tank of fast growing plants (especially floaters) can go a long way in reducing tank generated nitrates AS IS good routine tank maintenance and using a sand rather than gravel substrate.
Tank on!
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kty
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Thank you AbbeysDad.
I'm not lucky enough to live in the country unfortunately, I have a hotel in the middle of a town. (But I do live 50yds from the beach so not so bad lol ).
I have bought some filter media for my fluval 305 that claims to absorb nitrates send nitrites, and put it in last night so fingers crossed. If that doesn't do enough then I will look into your suggestions.
The bizarre thing is my fish are thriving and even breading but my no3 is reading at 100ppm.
I'm not lucky enough to live in the country unfortunately, I have a hotel in the middle of a town. (But I do live 50yds from the beach so not so bad lol ).
I have bought some filter media for my fluval 305 that claims to absorb nitrates send nitrites, and put it in last night so fingers crossed. If that doesn't do enough then I will look into your suggestions.
The bizarre thing is my fish are thriving and even breading but my no3 is reading at 100ppm.
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