Anubius has always grown well for me without heaps of light as its a low light plant. Most aquarium plants are grown immersed above ground and not submersed til in an aquarium which why alot of times they melt because the leaves developed out of water which is why bought plants going in tank need good root systems to make the transition.
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Quin
Fishaholic
That's probably why my current leafy plant is dying, it wasn't in water until I put it in my tank and then started losing its health after a bit
I have never heard of Anubias dying solely from being grown submersed. Excerpts from my online profile:
Origin and Habitat: Tropical central and west Africa. Found in rivers, streams and in marshes. Species in the genus are aquatic or semi-aquatic.
Ideal position in aquarium
May be attached to rock or wood and used throughout the aquarium but not in direct bright light [see comments under Lighting requirements].
Lighting requirements
Low to moderate. It often develops yellowing spots on the leaves in bright light (unless nutrients including CO2 are high to balance), and in most natural aquaria should preferably be grown in shade or under diffused light such as under floating plants. Algae will not be so likely to grow on the leaves in subdued or low light.
Water parameters
Soft to medium hard (< 15 dGH), acidic to slightly basic (pH 6 to 8) water, temperature 22-27C/71-81F. Almost all variants of this species will grow well within the stated parameters.
Description
Anubias barteri is the most commonly available species of Anubias and there are several varieties having different leaf forms and varying in overall size. A. barteri var. nana is the smallest and the species most often seen in the hobby. The requirements given here (water parameters, light, nutrients) are basically the same for all of these.
All species in the genus have dark green, thick and usually broad leaves. This plant is a good choice for "difficult" situations. It prefers low light and does very well even when shaded by other plants. Most fish that are herbivorous will not eat Anubias. As it is attached to rock and wood, it will not be uprooted by fish that dig in the substrate. It can be used in a plaudarium and grown emersed provided the rootstock is under water.
Anubias should not be planted in the substrate with the stolon (rhizome) buried or the plant will deteriorate. Similar to Java Fern, the rhizome should be affixed to wood or rock with black cotton thread and the roots will attach the plant in a few weeks.
Algae frequently attaches itself to the leaves of this plant, especially brush algae; keeping it in low or subdued light will help to prevent this.
Anubias may be reproduced by dividing the rhizome; ensure there are several leaves and some roots emerging from each piece of rhizome. Sideshoots from the rhizome will develop and these may also be removed as new plants. Most species will produce submersed flowers in theaquarium; one of the photos above depicts A. barteri var nana in flower. Growth of all species is slow, with one leaf every 3-4 weeks at best. Under very poor conditions (neglect), the plant has been known to grow in miniature.
The Araceae is a family of flowering plants in which the flower is borne on an inflorescence known as a spadix which is usually partially enveloped by a leaf-like bract called a spathe [see photo below]. Also known as the Arum family, there are more than 3700 species in 107 genera. The genus Anubias was named by the Austrian botanist Heinrich Wilhelm Schott (1794-1865). Schott described the species A. barteri in 1860. A. barteri var. nana was originally described by Adolf Engler in 1899 as a distinct species, Anubias nana; it was reduced to varietal status by Crusio in 1979.
References:
Crusio, W. (1979), "A revision of Anubias Schott (Araceae)," Primitiae Africanae XII, Mededelingen Landbouwhogeschool Wageningen 79 (14), pp. 1-48.
Origin and Habitat: Tropical central and west Africa. Found in rivers, streams and in marshes. Species in the genus are aquatic or semi-aquatic.
Ideal position in aquarium
May be attached to rock or wood and used throughout the aquarium but not in direct bright light [see comments under Lighting requirements].
Lighting requirements
Low to moderate. It often develops yellowing spots on the leaves in bright light (unless nutrients including CO2 are high to balance), and in most natural aquaria should preferably be grown in shade or under diffused light such as under floating plants. Algae will not be so likely to grow on the leaves in subdued or low light.
Water parameters
Soft to medium hard (< 15 dGH), acidic to slightly basic (pH 6 to 8) water, temperature 22-27C/71-81F. Almost all variants of this species will grow well within the stated parameters.
Description
Anubias barteri is the most commonly available species of Anubias and there are several varieties having different leaf forms and varying in overall size. A. barteri var. nana is the smallest and the species most often seen in the hobby. The requirements given here (water parameters, light, nutrients) are basically the same for all of these.
All species in the genus have dark green, thick and usually broad leaves. This plant is a good choice for "difficult" situations. It prefers low light and does very well even when shaded by other plants. Most fish that are herbivorous will not eat Anubias. As it is attached to rock and wood, it will not be uprooted by fish that dig in the substrate. It can be used in a plaudarium and grown emersed provided the rootstock is under water.
Anubias should not be planted in the substrate with the stolon (rhizome) buried or the plant will deteriorate. Similar to Java Fern, the rhizome should be affixed to wood or rock with black cotton thread and the roots will attach the plant in a few weeks.
Algae frequently attaches itself to the leaves of this plant, especially brush algae; keeping it in low or subdued light will help to prevent this.
Anubias may be reproduced by dividing the rhizome; ensure there are several leaves and some roots emerging from each piece of rhizome. Sideshoots from the rhizome will develop and these may also be removed as new plants. Most species will produce submersed flowers in theaquarium; one of the photos above depicts A. barteri var nana in flower. Growth of all species is slow, with one leaf every 3-4 weeks at best. Under very poor conditions (neglect), the plant has been known to grow in miniature.
The Araceae is a family of flowering plants in which the flower is borne on an inflorescence known as a spadix which is usually partially enveloped by a leaf-like bract called a spathe [see photo below]. Also known as the Arum family, there are more than 3700 species in 107 genera. The genus Anubias was named by the Austrian botanist Heinrich Wilhelm Schott (1794-1865). Schott described the species A. barteri in 1860. A. barteri var. nana was originally described by Adolf Engler in 1899 as a distinct species, Anubias nana; it was reduced to varietal status by Crusio in 1979.
References:
Crusio, W. (1979), "A revision of Anubias Schott (Araceae)," Primitiae Africanae XII, Mededelingen Landbouwhogeschool Wageningen 79 (14), pp. 1-48.
Can you post a photo? Terrestrial plants will usually die if grown submersed, but there are many marsh or bog plants in the hobby (like the Echinoodorus sword plants) that will grow permanently emersed or submersed, but may go through a "change" if moveed from emersed to submersed growth.
OP
OP
Quin
Fishaholic
I deeply appreciate the info on anubias!
These are the pictures of my plant, I'm not sure what it is but I like it and was hoping it would grow. It used to be pretty upright but after it started browning it got droopy and spread out. It may be because my gravel has no nutrients
Attachments
I believe that is a species of Echinodorus. These plants are heavy feeders, and they need good (but not high intensity) light. They are marsh plants, but they grow exceptionally well permanently submersed, provided they have light and nutrients.
On the nutrients, substrate tabs are really essential for these plants. Seachem's Flourish Tabs are good, I have been using them over a decade now. One tab inserted into the substrate close to the crown of the plant, will do wonders; a new tab in 3-4 months. Liquid fertilizer can also work, but the tabs do provide incredible results.
The light...what is the data on this?
OP
OP
Quin
Fishaholic
The bulbs in my lamp put out 390 lumens but it's only on for an hour max during the day. The light in my room is slightly less bright but the lid on my tank is almost directly between them so it gets in the way. The light intensity really makes sense as it started going downhill when my lights were off while Hank was sick.
If it is a light intensive plant I'll have to rehome it after my tank reno, but until then would liquid fertilizer work? I've been recommended flourish comprehensive liquid fertilizer
The tabs (Flourish Tabs) will really help. The liquid, Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for the planted aquarium, yes too.
What is the spectrum of the tank light. It should be on for five or six hours a day, on a timer for consistency.
How many liters or gallons is your tank?
Most low light plants need around 20 lumens/liter.
So lets say the tank was 20 gallons that 75 liters×20= 1500 lumens and the bulb needs to be 5000K-6700k to be effective for plants.
OP
OP
Quin
Fishaholic
The tank was old and free from a family friend so unfortunately the tank light doesn't work. My room light is on usually from 10 am to 9/10 pm and I'll turn the lamp on about 5-10 minutes while I sit with it. I'm not really sure if timers can be attached to desk lamps, but if they can I can look into getting one
OP
OP
Quin
Fishaholic
My tank is 10 gallons. Is that calculation total, or for each plant?
Total.
10 gallons is about 37 liters so 37×20=740
So shoot for at least 740 lumens to grow low light plants closer to 30 lumens/liter for medium light plants and over 40 lumens/ liter for high light red plants.
All your plants are low to mid light.
If you are using desk lamps the easiest thing to do is get a 13 watt compact fluorescent bulb 6500K they usually have around 800 lumens/bulb
OP
OP
Quin
Fishaholic
My current bulb is 40 watts I believe, though when it says it uses 29w that means energy consumption right?
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