Ph

I'd take the lfs pH test as the correct one then, i wouldnt trust a dip strip test as far as i could throw the tub they come in.

The bubble disc is one of the causes of the hair algae, hair algae thrives in tanks with a lot of surface turbulance. You may also want to put a post in the planted tank section, the plants should be able to outcompete the algae if the tank has the correct levels and spectrum of lighting.

A KH level of 0 is extreemly worrying, that means your tank has no buffering capactity at all, basicly if a fish as much as farts in the tank there is going to be an effect on the pH. I suggest buying a test kit for KH and testing again because if that 0 value is right you have a whole world of troubles ahead of you.
 
If photosynthesis affects the pH to any significant degree, then my tanks are going to be all over the place, because they are all at least planted to 75% substrate coverage. I know this is not the case, as the only pH drop my tank experiences is 0.4 at night when the CO2 degasses. I no longer ever test my tanks unless I feel something is wrong, but I did monitor them in the early days to learn what is happening in there. Your algae is not affecting your pH to any worthwhile amount.

For algae to bloom, it needs a germination trigger. Some people will blame your algae on phosphates levels, and others will blame it on nitrates. These are both nutrients used by algae, but they do not trigger it. I actively add nitrates and phosphates to my planted tanks, but have never triggered algae in this way. I even increased the nitrate level in a healthy growing planted tank from my usual 20ppm to >50ppm for a protracted period with no increased plant growth and no algal bloom. I have also grown algae in a glass full of RO water, simply by adding sunlight, so depriving algae of nutrients will be nigh on impossible. So, if your tank is not receiving direct sunlight, it is unlikely that light is the cause, although it would be useful to know your light levels and photoperiod.

For your plants to have algae growing on them, then they must be unhealthy. I am not sure what you mean by medium stocked with plants, but if you have around a 50% coverage of plants, then having air bubbles is going to degass your water of CO2. The carbon from CO2 is essential to the photosynthesis of your plants, so if it is in short supply, your plants detect this and they start to produce RuBisCo to fix carbon. This requires a lot of energy from your plants, meaning that their growth is slowed down and deficiencies start to appear. If the deficiency is carbon, your plants will start to suffer quite quickly.

As a consequence, unhealthy plants leach ammonia. Ammonia is another good way of triggering algae in my experience, so with a constant supply of ammonia around your plants leafs algae will bloom.

Light levels are the major factor influencing growth rates in your tank, followed by avaialability of carbon. If your light levels are sufficiently low, then they won`t be driving a large nutrient uptake, so your tap water may well contain enough nitrates and phosphates to support the slower growth. You may want to consider adding trace elements via a reputable source such as Tropica Plant Nutrition.

My advice to you is to get rid of the air bubbles, keep cutting off the algae affected parts of the plants (plants love pruning), improve CO2 levels and add trace elements. I would also give up disturbing the substrate as well, if I were you, as this releases ammonia in to the water column and triggers algae. I have never vacuumed any of my tanks at any point and have never seen the point in a planted tank.

In summary, I think you need better CO2, better trace elements and to keep hassling the algae.

What would be interesting is a picture of the algae to see what type it is and how advanced it is, a list of the plant types you have, and your light levels and type.

Dave.

I have a seachem ammonia detector in the tank, which reads safe, lfs test an my test came back with 0 ammonia. My tank light is on a 5-2-5 program, (on for 5 off for 2 on for 5)


I'd take the lfs pH test as the correct one then, i wouldnt trust a dip strip test as far as i could throw the tub they come in.

The bubble disc is one of the causes of the hair algae, hair algae thrives in tanks with a lot of surface turbulance. You may also want to put a post in the planted tank section, the plants should be able to outcompete the algae if the tank has the correct levels and spectrum of lighting.

A KH level of 0 is extreemly worrying, that means your tank has no buffering capactity at all, basicly if a fish as much as farts in the tank there is going to be an effect on the pH. I suggest buying a test kit for KH and testing again because if that 0 value is right you have a whole world of troubles ahead of you.

Retested with another kit, this read 40-80 ppm KH, also I have turned off my bubbles. what about the water fall feature??
 
By waterfall feature do you mean it is a part of a filter or a seperate ornament just for looks?
 
By waterfall feature do you mean it is a part of a filter or a seperate ornament just for looks?

part of the filter, its an hang on back type filter

im working on photos, wont seem let me... what do you use for uploading photos on this forum. Ive done it before, cant remember how I did it last time :(
 
I have a seachem ammonia detector in the tank, which reads safe, lfs test an my test came back with 0 ammonia. My tank light is on a 5-2-5 program, (on for 5 off for 2 on for 5)

I wouldn`t rely too heavily on test kits if I were you, they are not particularly accurate. Ammonia will exist at algae trigger levels in your tank, but still be undetectable by over the counter test kits. I work at a power station and can measure ammonia in parts per billion, so I know when it`s there.

I would also keep your photoperiod as a straight 10 hour period. The mid photoperiod siesta is old thinking that will only give your algae more opportunity. When the lights come on, algae responds more quickly than plants and starts growing sooner. Two lights on periods just exacerbate the problem. During the lights off period the CO2 has the chance to build levels back up again to aid plant growth, but all this is doing is highlighting the fact that your CO2 levels are too low for your plant growth rates.

I wasn`t too concerned by your KH reading, as I doubt that it is correct. I have a JBL kit that I can prove is not particularly accurate.

Dave.
 
By waterfall feature do you mean it is a part of a filter or a seperate ornament just for looks?

part of the filter, its an hang on back type filter

im working on photos, wont seem let me... what do you use for uploading photos on this forum. Ive done it before, cant remember how I did it last time :(


If its part of the filter you have to leave it in place.
 
ok thanks for all the help, ill shall now just have to wait an see i guess
 
Somethings not right, 4 fish died over weekend. now 3 have died today!!!

now im gettin worried!

especially when stats are readin ok
 
Do you have water movement at the top of your tank? Such as aeration or is the water being agitated?

What is the temperature in your tank?
How do you introduce your fish when you bring them home from the LFS?

Are these fish showing any signes before they die? Breathing heavily, reddened gills, other physical complications?
 
Do you have water movement at the top of your tank? Such as aeration or is the water being agitated?

What is the temperature in your tank?
How do you introduce your fish when you bring them home from the LFS?

Are these fish showing any signes before they die? Breathing heavily, reddened gills, other physical complications?

I had bubbles, and the surface was very choppy. But I was advised on this forum to turn the bubbles off. And have the light on 10 hours straight rather than just 5-2-5. Now I just have the waterfall-filter(hang on back type) As explained earlier in the thread!

temp is 79

Sometimes when the fish die they are all over the place, like they dont know which way is up. And sometimes they jsut sit at bottom of tank. having trouble to swim, like as if its there swim bladder? Prehaps the bubbles were too fierce and did something to there swim bladder maybe?

I introduce them by turning the light off, floatin the bag for 30-45min. then adding water out the aquarium to the bag.Floating for another 30-45min. then submerge the bag then let them swim out freely. I dont like nettin them again, i feel tis too stressful for them. then i leave the light off for at least an hour of two.

Im so confused!! Cant understand whats going on, i havent done anything wrong.
 
Everyone here is concentrating on water stats, probably, like me, blinded by the title of this thread.

I'm now thinking that this has nothing to do with water stats.

I think your fish are becoming infected with some little nasty in the water: Could be fungal or bacterial, I suspect the latter.

I do not know enough about diagnosing diseases, but what you've described, smacks of possible infection of some kind.

At the very least I would therefore be tempted to start another thread with a better title such as 'All my fish are dieing off, please help'.

I hope I'm not being alarmist....

Andy
 
How do their tales look?
How is their poo? Does it seem normal?

Do they seem really skinny when they die? or do they seem normal size or larger?

I think 10 hours is a lot of light time, however being on a schedule like you had should not have any effect. Unless you have live plants, the schdule you had was okay.
 
How do their tales look? How is their poo? Does it seem normal?Do they seem really skinny when they die? or do they seem normal size or larger?I think 10 hours is a lot of light time, however being on a schedule like you had should not have any effect. Unless you have live plants, the schdule you had was okay.
tail look fine, Poo looks normal.No they seem normal size!!thats why i am baffledyes i have live plants, how long would u have light on for??have just noticed, since turnin down the bubbles to virtually zero yesterday, the fish seem a lot more active.

I have some esha 2000. Is that any good for killing bacteria?
 

Most reactions

Back
Top