Ph is really high help please

[Iluvbloodyparrots]

Hii I'm rlly worried about the Ph in my tank and why its so high. My house water is around 7.5? but my tank water is over 8.2 and Her swimming patterns look frantic (not constantly but it feels definitely off) I'm just really worried about Miss Rosalie. I did another water change just now and its lower than it was but still kinda high I just really wanna know how to prevent it/lower it. here's a picture just in case something is increasing it (maybe I should take the seiryu stone out?!) thank you so much for your time

 

[Endlersendlers]

Yes, the seiyru stone is limestone and increases pH. It is great for cichlids but bettas need more acidic water. I made this mistake early on by adding seashells to my betta tank. He acted frantic and I took them out that afternoon, changed more than 75% of the water, and added half a coconut shell to make it more acidic. A few hours later he was acting normal again, no longer stressed. Catappa (also called Indian almond) leaves are good for them too. Driftwood helps add acidity and I see you have that, which will help once you get the stone out and change the water.

 

[Uberhoust]

What is the substrate above the aquarium soil? There are some substrates that are also calcareous, specifically for reef and cichlid setups, that too can be the cause. You will also want to make sure that it is pH neutral. If it is aragonite or something similar it will also cause an issue. Hard to tell what it is from the photo.

 

[Byron]

There are several factors that affect pH, and before jumping to conclusions you should consider all of these.

First, what is the pH of your source (tap) water? When you test pH in tap water, there are a couple things that might be affecting it. Primarily here is dissolved CO2. There can be a lot of CO2 in tap water, which is not dangerous but it might affect the pH test by making it seem lower. CO2 dissolved in water produces carbonic acid, and this lowers the pH. So let a glass of fresh water sit 24 hours, then test; that will be a more accurate reading.

Water authorities sometimes add chemicals to raise pH if the source water reservoir is acidic. They will tell you this, probably on their website. Probably not relevant here, but good to know anyway.

Second thing, pH is closely tied to the GH and KH. The latter (also called Alkalinity) works to buffer the pH, preventing fluctuations. All three parameters for the source (tap) water on its own need to be ascertained. Check the website of your water authority. Post the GH, KH and pH they give.

Third, aquatic plant "soils" often impact GH/KH/pH. The info on the website of the manufacturer should mention this, either way. Check that.

Fourth, the seiryu stone...online info says this can affect GH and pH by raising it minimally. This may or may not be an issue, we will know better when the other factors have been sorted out.

Fifth, the substrate as already mentioned, what is it composed of?

My final summary comment is that water chemistry in an aquarium can be incredibly complex and involved. We are dealing with natural processes, meaning what play out according to the laws of nature. In the habitats all of these factors are what we may term very stable and permanent for the most part, so things don't change much. But in the veery minute confines of any aquarium the biological/chemical system can be significantly impacted by something quite unsubstantial in itself, but when everything works together cause this or that. It is always safer for the fish to have these influences/factors as few and minimal as possible.

 

[10 Tanks]

Hello. The water is really fine. A pH of between 6.5 and 8.5 is good, as long as the reading stays constant. An aggressive water change routine will guarantee a steady water chemistry. Work up to the point you remove and replace half the water every few days with pure, treated tap water and you won't need to worry about the water chemistry, you'll always know it's consistent for your fish.

10 Tanks (Now 11)

 

[Iluvbloodyparrots]

Yes, the seiyru stone is limestone and increases pH. It is great for cichlids but bettas need more acidic water. I made this mistake early on by adding seashells to my betta tank. He acted frantic and I took them out that afternoon, changed more than 75% of the water, and added half a coconut shell to make it more acidic. A few hours later he was acting normal again, no longer stressed. Catappa (also called Indian almond) leaves are good for them too. Driftwood helps add acidity and I see you have that, which will help once you get the stone out and change the water.

Thank you sososo much!! I took out the stone and Ill get a catappa soon

 

[Iluvbloodyparrots]

Hello. The water is really fine. A pH of between 6.5 and 8.5 is good, as long as the reading stays constant. An aggressive water change routine will guarantee a steady water chemistry. Work up to the point you remove and replace half the water every few days with pure, treated tap water and you won't need to worry about the water chemistry, you'll always know it's consistent for your fish.

10 Tanks (Now 11)

thank you!!

 

[Iluvbloodyparrots]

What is the substrate above the aquarium soil? There are some substrates that are also calcareous, specifically for reef and cichlid setups, that too can be the cause. You will also want to make sure that it is pH neutral. If it is aragonite or something similar it will also cause an issue. Hard to tell what it is from the photo.

its really fine sand from super naturals? i believe? I think its also used for reefing

 

[Iluvbloodyparrots]

There are several factors that affect pH, and before jumping to conclusions you should consider all of these.

First, what is the pH of your source (tap) water? When you test pH in tap water, there are a couple things that might be affecting it. Primarily here is dissolved CO2. There can be a lot of CO2 in tap water, which is not dangerous but it might affect the pH test by making it seem lower. CO2 dissolved in water produces carbonic acid, and this lowers the pH. So let a glass of fresh water sit 24 hours, then test; that will be a more accurate reading.

Water authorities sometimes add chemicals to raise pH if the source water reservoir is acidic. They will tell you this, probably on their website. Probably not relevant here, but good to know anyway.

Second thing, pH is closely tied to the GH and KH. The latter (also called Alkalinity) works to buffer the pH, preventing fluctuations. All three parameters for the source (tap) water on its own need to be ascertained. Check the website of your water authority. Post the GH, KH and pH they give.

Third, aquatic plant "soils" often impact GH/KH/pH. The info on the website of the manufacturer should mention this, either way. Check that.

Fourth, the seiryu stone...online info says this can affect GH and pH by raising it minimally. This may or may not be an issue, we will know better when the other factors have been sorted out.

Fifth, the substrate as already mentioned, what is it composed of?

My final summary comment is that water chemistry in an aquarium can be incredibly complex and involved. We are dealing with natural processes, meaning what play out according to the laws of nature. In the habitats all of these factors are what we may term very stable and permanent for the most part, so things don't change much. But in the veery minute confines of any aquarium the biological/chemical system can be significantly impacted by something quite unsubstantial in itself, but when everything works together cause this or that. It is always safer for the fish to have these influences/factors as few and minimal as possible.

Ill do the the testing tmrw! That's so smart thank you so much. My house has built-in filters for the hardness and chlorine do you think the website numbers will still be accurate? Ill look into the substrate too. its composed of fine sand from super naturals I think and fluval stratum. thank you so much for all the advice it means a lot

 

[Endlersendlers]

Thank you sososo much!! I took out the stone and Ill get a catappa soon

How is he doing now?

 

[Essjay]

its really fine sand from super naturals? i believe? I think its also used for reefing

If it is used for reefing it is likely to be made from calcium and/or magnesium carbonate. It will raise GH (a measure of calcium and magnesium) and KH (a measure of carbonate and bicarbonate). Removing the rock may not be enough, you may need to replace the substrate with inert sand as well.
If you have any left over you can test it by adding vinegar to a small sample. If it bubbles, even slightly, it is calcium carbonate. if you used it all, just remove a bit from the tank, wash under the tap and let it dry before testing.

My house has built-in filters for the hardness and chlorine

Do you know what kind of filter?
Some swap the hardness minerals for sodium, and this is not good for fish. With this type there should be a bypass tap which should be used for fish tanks. But you use the word filter rather than softener, and this type sometimes swap the hardness minerals for hydrogen ions. Since pH is a measure of hydrogen ions this type can affect pH (the more hydoogen ions, the low the pH)

 

[Byron]

Agree with essjay completely. Provide us with whatever info on the "filter(s)" and you need to test the GH, KH and pH of this water. It may or may not vary from the source reservoir(s). Some fish stores will do tests, just make certain you write down the number--not some vague term like "moderate hardness" which tells us nothing, and write down their measurement unit. Some tests measure in degrees (represented as "x" dH) and some in parts per million (represented as "x"ppm).

Also agree with essjay on the sand, can you post a link to the sand you have so we can see its makeup?