PH 8.0 for Arowana?

[landonjacob]

Hello again everyone,

So my new test strips came in. Until I upgrade to a new testing device.. but anyways my well water comes out at 8.0 and so is my current setup intended for an albino silver Arowana coming later this week. What is the safest, most effective and most stable way to lower my PH? Should I use a specific brand of powder or liquid to lower it?

This is the brand I ordered is shown below and should be here by tomorrow. Any other suggestions, advice, procuct recommendations?

 

[MaloK]

If you can have or test the water yourself for GH and KH.

At some point using PH control solution in Hard Water is very dangerous for fishes. Proper PH 7 will add buffers and probably will not lower your PH. It's normally used in established aquariums to prevent acidification and most likely will add carbonate. A PH Minus solution should be used in hard water. But, If you can avoid it you will be saving a lot of risk, I simply hate them all.

Water between
GH 5-12 dGH
KH 4-8 dKH
Is considered good

If your water is close to that, leave the PH alone, it will lower slowly as the tank mature and pH range of 6.5 to 8.0 is considered safe.

 

[GaryE]

Putting acids in the water usually backfires. It rarely does good. You can purchase and set up a reverse osmosis system for your water changes. That would be quite a task for a fish growing that large.

pH isn't a big deal. KH and GH are.

 

[landonjacob]

If you can have or test the water yourself for GH and KH.

At some point using PH control solution in Hard Water is very dangerous for fishes. Proper PH 7 will add buffers and probably will not lower your PH. It's normally used in established aquariums to prevent acidification and most likely will add carbonate. A PH Minus solution should be used in hard water. But, If you can avoid it you will be saving a lot of risk, I simply hate them all.

Water between
GH 5-12 dGH
KH 4-8 dKH
Is considered good

If your water is close to that, leave the PH alone, it will lower slowly as the tank mature and pH range of 6.5 to 8.0 is considered safe.

So with the PH being 8.0 in the establish aquarium, I’m assuming it’s not going to lower on its own. I hate using chemicals to lower it because I don’t feel like it will be a stable level. I also have Indian almond leaves. Do you think that would be a better option? Or just don’t mess with the PH at all? At 8.0. For an Arowana. I just want him to thrive.

 

[landonjacob]

If you can have or test the water yourself for GH and KH.

At some point using PH control solution in Hard Water is very dangerous for fishes. Proper PH 7 will add buffers and probably will not lower your PH. It's normally used in established aquariums to prevent acidification and most likely will add carbonate. A PH Minus solution should be used in hard water. But, If you can avoid it you will be saving a lot of risk, I simply hate them all.

Water between
GH 5-12 dGH
KH 4-8 dKH
Is considered good

If your water is close to that, leave the PH alone, it will lower slowly as the tank mature and pH range of 6.5 to 8.0 is considered safe.

What PH minus solution would you recommend for an Arowana? I’ll test the GH and KH when I get home.

 

[landonjacob]

Putting acids in the water usually backfires. It rarely does good. You can purchase and set up a reverse osmosis system for your water changes. That would be quite a task for a fish growing that large.

pH isn't a big deal. KH and GH are.

I need a more advanced test kit. I have one in the mail now. This one doesn’t read KH and GH. Do these results look bad/concerning for an Arowana?

 

[Essjay]

Yes it does read GH and KH, it calls them hardness (GH) and total alkalinity (KH).

KH is the one which buffers pH against changes. It's hard to tell what the level is in the photo. You can see the actual strip - what level does it read for 'alkalinity'?

Edit - and the reading for 'hardness'

 

[anewbie]

I wish ph was never mentioned in any literature related to fishes.

 

[MaloK]

Doesn't seems too hard for well water. That looks in the top tier but not out of range at all.

Even the KH near 120 ppm and that's pretty good.

 

[landonjacob]

Yes it does read GH and KH, it calls them hardness (GH) and total alkalinity (KH).

KH is the one which buffers pH against changes. It's hard to tell what the level is in the photo. You can see the actual strip - what level does it read for 'alkalinity'?

Edit - and the reading for 'hardness'

All the years the hobby and everything about test kits still contorted hell out of. Thank you for teaching me that and for your help. Do you think this water is safe for soft water fishes like an Arowana?

 

[landonjacob]

I wish ph was never mentioned in any literature related to fishes.

It’s all so confusing to me. i just wish I knew if the waters safe for an Arowana.

 

[Essjay]

It's hard to tell the GH (hardness) number from the photo but it looks as though it's around 50 or perhaps 125 ppm. If this is the reading, it should be OK for arowanas.

GH is more important than pH for fish.

 

[MaloK]

@landonjacob, If you ask people with well water, many will be jealous of yours.

GH 5-12 dGH Translate to 90-215 ppm yours looks to me at 125 ppm
KH 4-8 dKH translate to 72-143 ppm yours looks like 120 ppm -> (Only you see the colors for real)

Now, if you can have a test of the water the fish comes from before getting it. (GH / KH) You can anticipate what you need to do to acclimate him a little to the new water, at least not a brutal transition.

If both water are close enough, it should go well with your well.

 

[Colin_T]

Are you getting a true South American Arowana - Osteoglossum bicirrhosum or an Australian/ Asian Saratoga - Scleropages jardinii/ leichardti?

South American Arowana come from soft slightly acid water.

Australian and Asian Saratogas come from a wider range of habitats that include soft water but also harder water and in some cases slightly brackish water. Most are found in soft water.

-------------------

These fish can get big (3 foot) and you must have a huge tank or preferably a pond for them. They jump and you need a decent cover on their enclosure. They are not community fish and will eat anything small enough to fit in their mouth. They need swimming room too and adult fish need enclosures that are at least 20 feet long x 10 feet wide x 3 foot deep. Very few of these fish ever live longer than 10 years in home aquariums and most get given away or die after a few years.

In my opinion, these fishes should not be kept in home aquariums simply because most people don't have a tank big enough to accommodate them.

 

[landonjacob]

Are you getting a true South American Arowana - Osteoglossum bicirrhosum or an Australian/ Asian Saratoga - Scleropages jardinii/ leichardti?

South American Arowana come from soft slightly acid water.

Australian and Asian Saratogas come from a wider range of habitats that include soft water but also harder water and in some cases slightly brackish water. Most are found in soft water.

-------------------

These fish can get big (3 foot) and you must have a huge tank or preferably a pond for them. They jump and you need a decent cover on their enclosure. They are not community fish and will eat anything small enough to fit in their mouth. They need swimming room too and adult fish need enclosures that are at least 20 feet long x 10 feet wide x 3 foot deep. Very few of these fish ever live longer than 10 years in home aquariums and most get given away or die after a few years.

In my opinion, these fishes should not be kept in home aquariums simply because most people don't have a tank big enough to accommodate them.

I’m getting a true Osteoglossum bicirrhosum, albino silver Arowana. He’ll be a 4-5” baby when I get him and we expect and plan on him growing 1-2 inches a month. His temporary grow out 75 gallon (with weighted glass top) will be his home for one year or less. I’ve been studying Arowanas since I was a child and I’ve never heard anyone saying they need a 20 ft long enclosure. The general rule of thumb most experts use is the fish needs an enclosure at least 3 times the length of the fishes body. And adults usually average around 3 feet. Most people recommend at least a 180-220 gallon for an adult silver. And as already stated that’s part of the plan with the new house. We are (also) considering a pond setup for the final adult enclosure if we cannot find a 180-220 with maximized surface area. The only thing I’m concerned about currently is the test results of my well water. Some people say these domesticated, captive bred specimens can take a wide variety of water/PH conditions, but I just want to make sure mine is as happy, healthy and comfortable as possible. Thank you for your time and help! I appreciate the advice and concern!