Pfk Article On Co2 Usage

sophos9

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Had fun reading the CO2 article in this months PFK. Immediately I thought just as soon as you start thinking you got the hang of this stuff, something like this article happens...

OK, first point is the myths...

MYTH - Excessive CO2 will send off algae
FACT - CO2 gives algae a major nutrient, carbon, so it is likely that it will help algae use any other nutrient lying around. Notion probably stems from going from NO CO2 to adding CO2, the nutrients will probably be used by the faster growing plants depriving algae

MYTH - BBA does not grow in CO2 dosed tanks
FACT - It can do

MYTH - Tap water contains CO2
FACT - There is virtually no CO2 in tap water

Now I believed the myths.... What do you think?
 
I dunno about the other 2, but BBA can be cause by unstable CO2 levels.
I had a small amount of BBA growing in my tank even though i was adding CO2.
 
Regarding the first point, everything EI has you adding to the tank is beneficial to algae. The point of it all is that you use your plants to outcompete the algae. That is why peolpe with high tech tanks that try to cut back on light, nitrates or whatever to get rid of algae are asking for more trouble. Always think about what your plants want, not what algae doesn`t because, invariably, what you are denying algae you are also denying your plants, and algae reacts to these changes more quickly than your plants.

I had a recent minor outbreak of BBA, but that was because my CO2 bottle started to run low and I suspect the dregs in the cylinder were not of a particularly good quality.
 
I think the author has taken some assumptions that perhaps some of us make and made an example from them.

It's a pity he does not elaborate on the importance of good CO2 (30ppm) in higher lighting tanks.

I will hopefully submit another article on CO2 in the future, concentrating on how important it is and how to test for it accurately. I'm sure Tom Barr wouldn't mind helping too.....
 
It's entertaining to suggest a myth vs fact on such topics.
As someone who has a water treatment operators license, I can tell you that most tap has more than ambient, and a lot of tap water is really loaded, well/spring water in particular.

I'll present my case easily here:
Caves, you know, the places folks crawl around in, my Dad was a cave biologist.
How are they formed? CO2..........
Why would ground water be loaded with CO2?

As rain falls, it enters the soil, bacteria give off XCO2, that's absorbed by the water, but there is nowhere for it to off gas. So it builds up and becomes rich in CO2, this eats away at limestone, which is a nice base that reacts well with CO2=> caves are formed.
Typical CO2 ppm in spring water: 10-30ppm in Florida, KY, IN, OH, AL, NC, SC, IL, MS, AR, TX, NM, CA, MN, WI, MI, NY, PN, WV, VA, TN..... anywhere there's limestone and many places there isn't. Not all tap will be loaded, but __most__ is. Ground water is almost always much higher.

Why would cold tap have more CO2 than your warm tank water?
Water at a colder temp holds more gas than at ambient conditions.
All gases...............

Those are the "facts" about tap water.
There are cases with low CO2, partial lime softening without recarbonation will provide high pH soft water without CO2. So being way too general can and has gotten more than one person into a lot of trouble, but some folks think their pride is more important than helping the hobby and seeking the truth.

Next statement:

Excessive CO2 will send off algae
"CO2 gives algae a major nutrient, carbon, so it is likely that it will help algae use any other nutrient lying around. Notion probably stems from going from NO CO2 to adding CO2, the nutrients will probably be used by the faster growing plants depriving algae"

Algae are not CO2 limited in any tank.
They do grow better with more, like plants, but they are more likely light limited in our systems.
He does not state which nutrients, NH4? Or NO3/PO4?
I can induce algae with NH4 or a high fish load which produces large amounts of NH4, but have been unable, as well as thousands of other folks to induce any algae with KNO3/KH2PO4.

I think I agree more in general with this statement of the 3.
But not the reason, algae are not deprived of nutrients, they are deprived of germination signals, NH4/variations in CO2 etc.

Both of which signal it's a good time to bloom in nature and aquariums and both of which are testable to the hypothesis and data shows this. Adding KNO3 a well planted lake or tank just gives you more weeds etc.

Any aquaculture farmer in Florida knows this that's raising bass and fish in ponds/lakes, they will add nutrients to increase plant growth or algae, they remove the weeds if they want algae instead. NH4 will spike the GW bloom and folks raising daphnia also know this method.

"MYTH - BBA does not grow in CO2 dosed tanks
FACT - It can do"

Yep, but if you use the CO2 right/correctly it will not.
you can also test this theory/hypothesis.
Decrease the CO2 by 1/2 or turn it off for a little while, say 1-2 weeks and see.
Will work faster with high light(why might that be?).
Watch if your CO2 tank runs out and you forget to check.

I had BBA about 12 years ago, we used Lamotte test kits to try to limit it.
We calibrated these test kits.
Something some have no clue about even how to do, ahem.......yet suggest that they are "good enough" and claim they do not need to check, I suppose we should not bother calibrating a pH probe either......................

I drove the NO3 to zero and then dose little pulses to see the effects.
Steve did the same with his infestation using low PO4.

After several months, no results.
We decided to add more CO2 after I noted none grew nearest the CO2 outlet, Steve noted the same effect. Suddenly the new growth of BBA stopped.

I've never had BBA since I figured out it was CO2.
Nor the client's tanks, nor the thousands of folks I've helped for well over a decade on the web with instant feedback.

Stable high CO2 helps and prevents new growth.

In order to confirm your hypothesis is true or not, you must go back and induce the algae.
Any one doing any sort of cause and effect research with algae must know how to produce new growth.

There might be other ways to induce new growth, but varying CO2 or low CO2 with high light is a certain method and a repeatable method that can be verified independently by hobbyists.

Rather than coming across as any sort of authority, I'd suggest you try a few things out and see what you think, see what your common sense tells you, then you will know and stop guessing.

You will be able to rule things out like "is my test kit crap?"
"Are my nutrients in good shape while I test the CO2 levels"
"How should I try testing this idea I have out?"

I'd rather not give folks a deer to eat, I'd rather teach them how to hunt.
That's better for the hobby and addresses our specific issues/needs/requirements/criteria.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 
George, would be interested in that article. Read your article on Aquascaping, was a good and bad read. Good due to having some really good info, bad as I have realised some key mistakes in my tank :lol:

Tom, as usual - thanks for the info, its invaluable to actually know what's going on!

This thread clarifies some important points that were not uncovered in the article thanks.
 
The only thing I am beginning to (possibly wrongly) find with PFK is what appears to be a competitive element between authors, with one appearing to contradict the other...as an example other articles in past issues have linked frequent water changes with additional CO2 input so even low-tech people were inadvertantly adding more CO2 than they were aware of.

Still, it made interesting reading non-the-less.

My CO2 level is now far more stable than ever (check via pH/permanent test), the Nutrafin yeast kit is way better than the naff Tetra Optimat 'thing' that seemed good at the time. I am dosing Flourish and Flourish trace now (small amount daily based on weekly amount) and have upped lighting in my 15 gallon from 15w to 36w (single T6 Realux is now an Interpet Daylight Plus PC T5 with proper reflector). Plants are pearling (some more than others) and even after a few days of upping the lighting growth is noticeably increased, with the r.macranda now growing bright red instead of a light pink.

Lighting periods are exactly the same (a single 7 hour period), I am now monitoring closely to see if algae will return: in the past I have only been able to control algae through loads of plants and reduced lighting periods. Time will tell and this article posed a fairly relevant read to my situation.
 
The only thing I am beginning to (possibly wrongly) find with PFK is what appears to be a competitive element between authors, with one appearing to contradict the other...as an example other articles in past issues have linked frequent water changes with additional CO2 input so even low-tech people were inadvertantly adding more CO2 than they were aware of.

you know i don't see that as ompetition between the authors, it's just they're different ways of doing things.

this whole planted tank thing while it has been around a while has really only just taken off into the mainstream, as such there's still a lot of ambiguity and people coming up with they're own solutions to problems. I think this is what causes the different articles and different approaches.

although i think it'd make for a good article if they sat some of the authors down together with a dictaphone and got them to argue and print out the text from it! :nod: :D
 
The only thing I think is that it can be really confusing, though I guess that is because the whole CO2 situation is confusing :)
 
I will hopefully submit another article on CO2 in the future, concentrating on how important it is and how to test for it accurately. I'm sure Tom Barr wouldn't mind helping too.....

Now this would be a good read :good:
 
I started a similar subject on the the AE forum. http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=790

The problem really seems to be for the begginer aquarist. And PFK deals with many begginers. There should be a clear devide between methods. And I agree that there is alot of controdiction, and again it is more confusing for the begginer. Which is a shame. A read through PFK by a budding planted aquarist will surely end in confusion.

As Tom says, to really know, you need to test it out for your self. Other wise you have no real argument to go against a method.

We want less speculation and more FACT please.

Regards,
Graeme.
 
algae are not deprived of nutrients, they are deprived of germination signals, NH4/variations in CO2 etc.

Tom Barr

Now there is a sentence well worth remembering if you are having problems with algae!

The CO2 article was written by Jeff Walmsley, an aquarist of some 65 years experience. Anybody wishing to read about how he defends his corner will find this interesting. Just scroll down the page for the Jeff Walmsley questions.

http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=1

Dave.

P.S. Apologies if I am not supposed to link to other forums.
 
Some really good info there...

You know, this has solidified my thoughts around learning from all you knowledgeable people then using that to 'do what works for the aquarium'.

So many different factors with so many different approaches... If target nitrates are 5ppm and you have 20ppm with little algae and plants growing well so what? If your CO2 is 25ppm and everything is growing well then have you done right?

:fish:
 
algae are not deprived of nutrients, they are deprived of germination signals, NH4/variations in CO2 etc.

Tom Barr

Now there is a sentence well worth remembering if you are having problems with algae!

Definitely! Not heard it explained like that before, but it makes masses of sense. A mass of fast growing stems in new tanks creates a stable environment, in which there are few 'germination signals' for the algae hence NO algae. As time progress the tank naturally stabilises/matures and so you can introduce slower growing plants :) It all becomes clear :teacher:

So many different factors with so many different approaches... If target nitrates are 5ppm and you have 20ppm with little algae and plants growing well so what? If your CO2 is 25ppm and everything is growing well then have you done right?

My thought exactly, I used to run a mature tank that never got algae, despite the 5ppm PO4 and off the chart NO3, but instead of watching what was going on in the tank I listened to my LFS and spent a small fortune trying to get the PO4 and NO3 levels down (which I never did). It was only once I took a step back and thought about what was actually happening, that i realised that PO4 and NO3 in themselves couldn't cause algae as I had them in plentiful amounts AND with NO aglae!

Sam
 

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