The bitter truth is that these bacteria can be very slow to grow and very random in who the pick to grow more quickly for and who more slowly, leading to some beginners being driven crazy having to listen to others for whom its going quickly! For those of you having a slow go, its important to realize though that eventually time is on your side.. they seem to simply not be able to go forever without finally at some point developing and in my opinion the ones that seemed stubborn getting there sometimes also seem the hardest to mess up later, being very solid colonies that seem to take fish additions in stride. (How's that for a positive pep talk
)
OK, so if you guys want to entertain yourselves with a little "fine tuning" of your fishless cycle, here's something to think about. The whole directive of -always- dumping in enough ammonia to bring you up to 5ppm level was really a way to make our fishless cycling article considerably more simple to describe to people. The most important part of the 5ppm choice is that it be done at the very end of the process when you are finally trying to get both ammonia and nitrite(NO2) down to zero within 12 hours. At that point, getting your level up to 5ppm will guarantee large robust colonies regardless of how big your initial stocking session is.
But prior to this you can "fine tune" the amount of ammonia you add at your 24-hour marks. During the "nitrite spike" period in particular, there are plenty of advantages to adding less ammonia. For each 1ppm of ammonia added, the A-Bacs will produce roughly 2.7ppm of nitrite(NO2). Then 3.6ppm of nitrate(NO3) gets produced (I forget at the moment whether that's for each 1ppm of ammonia or each 1ppm of nitrite(NO2)!! but you get the idea.) So, assuming you're smart enough to keep your thinking caps on and go back to 5ppm later
, there's nothing wrong with only dosing ammonia up to about 3ppm during the nitrite spike phase, as a way to reduce the total amount of NO2 and NO3 getting forced into the overall mix.
Of course, this -still- doesn't guarantee that overall NO2 and NO3 levels will be enough lower that you see much difference or that you avoid the pH drops that the nitric acids can bring on if you have poor buffering, but sometimes it helps a bit and there's always a small concern in the backs of our minds that the N-Bacs aren't as happy with high levels of NO2, NO3 and nitric acid pumped up in there.
So just to wrap up, if you go this route to lower your adds to 3ppm then once you are past the nitrite spike stage and you are dropping nitrite(NO2) to zero within 24 hours and beginning the long trek to it dropping in 12 hours, -that's- when to start easing the add-amount back slowly up to 4ppm and then finally 5ppm. Of course all this makes it should as if getting those kinds of amounts is easy to do and we all know its not as we are often just guesstimating a bit anyway! But that's ok, it lets you fiddle a bit more with your aquarium log and your water chemistry and keeps you entertained while you wait for those darn N-Bacs to get happy on their little stand of sponge and have babies!
~~waterdrop~~