Out of Control Algae

That is likely what happened. Substrates are sometimes rich in Ca and Mg.
Actually, since I've switched the substrate, my plants have taken off. They would always die after a couple of weeks in the gravel. Not sure why.
 
I think it has all been said here. But the higher the oxygen content the less algae. Either put more plants in your tank, lower your temperature, or increase your filter flow. Reducing light will also help. Natural sun sun strike is one of the worse things for algae growth. Just cover the tank with a bit of card will help immensely.
 
I think it has all been said here. But the higher the oxygen content the less algae. Either put more plants in your tank, lower your temperature, or increase your filter flow. Reducing light will also help. Natural sun sun strike is one of the worse things for algae growth. Just cover the tank with a bit of card will help immensely.
My tank is next to a window but there is a curtain between the tank and window. Temp is 80 F. What should I lower it to?
 
Sorry I can't help with the algae, but a tip for the plants, the cryptocorynes in particular are buried too deep. Lift them so that the crown, the centre bit where all the leaves come out of, is above the substrate. That's where the new leaves emerge from, you don't want that below the sand. They will establish good root systems if you add root tabs if them floating away is a concern, they just need some time to establish decent roots, which they can do more easily in sand than in gravel.
 
I've been using the Aquarium Co Op fertilizer and I've had great results in plant growth and in reducing algae for what it's worth.
 
What deficiencies are you seeing from the photos?

A Mobile Nutrient deficiency which can be caused by any one or more of the following nutrients:
Nitrogen (N)
Potassium (P)
Phosphorous(Phosphate (P)
Magnesium (Mg)
Chlorine (CL)
Molybdenum (Mo)

visually it can be very difficult to isolate just one nutrient. But with 50 fish NPK seems unlikely. And since tap water is treated with chlorine, a CL deficiency seems unlikely. That leaves Mg and Mo. But Mo is typically only needed in very small quantities 0.001 PPM while Mg is needed are at a minimum 1.0 PPM. So Magnesium is the most likely mobile nutrient in my opinion.

How much water do you change out during the water change and how many gallons is in the tank? it is highly unlikely that water evaporation is entirely the cause of your high GH reading. I do a 50% water change once a week. Anything less than that can result in an increase in hardness.

According to your utility water quality report your tap water likely has about 4PPM Mg, 22 PPM Ca, Cu well above what is needed, with no Zinc, Boron, and molybdenum, detected. So in my opinion Magnesium, Zinc and Boron and Molybdenum are the most likely ones deficient in your tank.due to your low fertilizer and tap water levels. Iron and Manganese were also not detected but your fertilizer is not deficient in those two.

Note there is a lab water test that can be done on your tank and TAP water. It is call and ICP-OES water tiest . It costs $30 per test. and you get results in within one week of mailing in your water sample. It will detect every nutrient I have mentioned down to 0.001 PPM. Except it won't detect Mn (dose to iron interference) and it also might not read Cl correctly. It can eliminate guessing the cause of the deficiency. This test is a popular tool for salt water tanks and much of the advice is salt water focused. For tresh water ignor their advice and just look at the numerical results.

Where are you getting all the minerals to add to your tank? It's safe to add Epsom salt to my tank?

On line. I can get most in small quantities at 99% purity levels though LoudWolf.com. You can find all at Amazon.com but often the smallest size available is typically 1 pound. And Nilocg.com has a limited but useful selection.

It's safe to add Epsom salt to my tank?
I have used all the ingredients I have listed in my tank including Epsom salt (99% purity). Preferably you want pure products that don't have any coloring, dies, or potentially toxic additives. And you can used the Fertilizer calculator I mentioned earlier to calculate how much to add to your tank to reach a target level.
 
How much water do you change out during the water change and how many gallons is in the tank? it is highly unlikely that water evaporation is entirely the cause of your high GH reading. I do a 50% water change once a week. Anything less than that can result in an increase in hardness.
My tank is 30 gallons and I change 50-75 % of the water weekly.
 
Thats a healthy algae. Good algae. But,to cut down on it,any Ancistrus would keep up with that..maybe Garras,Siamese,all the suck species that stay small.
What you also need are more water plants. What you have is fine..just buy more.
Otherwise..your system looks fine.
One more tidbit..those plastic pot scrubbers will take that algae right off the glass 100%.
 
My tank is 30 gallons and I change 50-75 % of the water weekly.
So in my opinion Magnesium, Zinc and Boron and Molybdenum

I earlier stated that you might be deficient Molybdenum. I was wrong on that your fertilizer has sufficient amount so Mo is OK.

At loudwolf.com you can get:
a 1oz bottle of boric acid for $4.89
a 1oz Bottle of Zinc sulfate for $8.99
A 4 oz bottle of Magnesium sulfate for $4.99
and for $20 you can get a scale capably of reading 0.001grams. All LoudWolf products ar 99% purity.

In a 100ml clean bottle add 1.4grams of boric acid and 1.4grams Zinc sulfate and then 100ml of distilled water and 1ml of vinegar. The vinegar keeps the water slightly acidic which helps to keep the boron and zinc to dissolve. Us a clean syringe. Don't let the syringe touch tap or tank water and don't use it for anything else. That will help prevent contamination and mold growth. Even with the 1oz bottles (28 grams) you have about enough to last 2 years.

For the magnesium sulfate don't mix it with the the Boron Zinc solution. Add it drydirectly to the tank 1 teaspoon of magnesium sulfate to boost the GH by 5ppm.

After your water change you can fertilize with your current fertilizer and add 1ml of the B ZN solution to correct for what your fertilizer is lacking.

You could try just the magnesium sulfate first and see how that goes for a few weeks. And then if needed try the zinc boron solution. I also do 50% water changes with an occasional larger one. So as to water changes you are OK there.
 
You have lots of fish but not much of plants, so most likely the nitrate level is high. That plus the amount of light you have will stimulate algae growth. Try adding more fast growing plants (e.g. hornwort & amazon frogbit) to suck up the nutrients and more snail to eat the algae.
 

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