Old Time Riverman

[lljdma06]

These would go in the tank. Packaging in the image says they are wave-makers, which implies surface to me. Hmmm, but it might be something to try. I am all for double-dipping. When I eventuallly go Marine, I can double-dip some of my equipment too.

I'm sorry, C, that you can't change the tank. Bad Missus for not understanding that a bigger tank would indeed be better viewed from the location you discussed! All I know is that who ever decides to marry me better be happy with multiple tanks and cryptocoryne cuttings everywhere!

 

[BigC]

As far as I'm aware you can place then sub-surface and use them as a water movement device. So we'll see what happens. Today I purchased some Eheim flexi tubing for the filter alongside a new crook and strainer basket as my old rigid pipe parts are covered in coraline algae which is hard to remove completely. Must try and locate my Double taps......
Things are still ticking along in the background. I'll order some CO2 parts next weekend.
Regards
C

 

[lljdma06]

If they can be used sub-surface, then give them a go. I think it'll help water movement which is crucial for Planted tanks, IMO.

 

[BigC]

A question on drop checkers and the frequency of changing the reagent fluid within.
#1 Do you refill the reagent in the drop checker horn every-time you water-change?
Secondly and I'm sure this question has been asked many times before.
#2 Do you keep your plants in the pots or remove both them and the hydroponic growing fibre prior to planting out?
Thirdly and maybe one for TPN+ users.
#3 Is it better to dose mixing up the required amount of TPN+(liquid ferts) mixed with aquarium water and drip fed to the tank over a period of time rather than throwing it all in at once.

I bought another small elongated piece of bog-wood today to enhance the rather dull low lying pieces I had already installed, I believe it will give the wooden structural part of the scape some height and shape and now I'll be able to whorl the Java moss onto it much easier giving that particular plant some presence.

Here is how the whole bog-wood formation looks at present with more front to back 3D effect.

I had a go with Aquasketcher a little while ago, utilising the planting scheme suggested in earlier posts on this thread and to my surprise it actually looks quite impressive. A couple of extra plants I wish to include at some point would be Nymphaea lotus zenkeri, Aponogeton crispus and Barclaya longifolia. All as one off specimen plants and to be kept within the limitations of my glass box
Regards
C

 

[ian]

1 Do you refill the reagent in the drop checker horn every-time you water-change?

I did change mine every couple of weeks with 4dkh water. I'm not using one at present as my C02 has been maintaining with a solenoid and regulator, so it stays the same. I do pop the dropchecker in for a few days every now and again.

2 Do you keep your plants in the pots or remove both them and the hydroponic growing fibre prior to planting out?

Remove the pots and the rock wool prior to planting, you then won't get any stunting. You may just want to give the old roots a little trim as well.

3 Is it better to dose mixing up the required amount of TPN+(liquid ferts) mixed with aquarium water and drip fed to the tank over a period of time rather than throwing it all in at once.


Throw it in all at once, it's fine to do that way. The plants will use it during photosynthesis. I tend to dose my tank a few hours before the lights come on. If i'm on an early start, i dose a good few hours before and it hasn't affected anything.



BTW that bogwood looks good mate.

 

[BigC]

Why the 4dKH water, do you not just utilise aquarium water can you explain more
Regards
C

 

[ian]

aaron explians it well in this thread

http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=268972

it's due to aquarium water containing other substances that will effect the drop checker.

 

[BigC]

Excellent Ian, bookmarked for future reference.
Thanks for your time and trouble, I know your busy, much appreciated
Regards
C

 

[lljdma06]

Here is how the whole bog-wood formation looks at present with more front to back 3D effect.

I had a go with Aquasketcher a little while ago, utilising the planting scheme suggested in earlier posts on this thread and to my surprise it actually looks quite impressive. A couple of extra plants I wish to include at some point would be Nymphaea lotus zenkeri, Aponogeton crispus and Barclaya longifolia. All as one off specimen plants and to be kept within the limitations of my glass box
Regards
C

Wow, that really helped your bogwood formation, and the tank will now have a lot more depth and height. Definitely attach moss to that jutting piece.

About the specimen plants. In my experience, I was able to keep a barclaya in a 10g and it didn't ovewhelm, I was also able to keep Nymphaea lotus in a small tank though it was a small bulb and I often trimmed the leaves to keep it small. There are dwarf varieties of both. I think you'll struggle with the aponogeton in a tank that small. Oh, it'll grow, it'll grow way too well. I also found that it actively competeted with crypts. At least in my tanks. The root system of the aponogeton is extensive and its leaves have a lot of area, it'll rob other plants of nutrients. Definitely stick to the Barclaya and the lotus. Actually, if you can get the Barclaya to flower it is lovely, and a member here got his Nymphaea to flower as well.

Those are my suggestions, having kept all three species.

Liz

 

[BigC]

Thanks Liz,for your info on the additional planting options.
Do you think some stone or pebble work around the base of the wood would enhance or detract from the scape, just thinking of something to make it more natural looking. I have bought some river pebbles but dont know wither to include some or not. I have seen a great number of professional scapes as I would call them utilise stone and wood to great effect and I can only assume its down to strategic placement that will determine wither it looks effective or not. Would I place this hard scape feature in before planting or after if I decided to go ahead with this aspect.
Your views please.
Regards
C

 

[lljdma06]

Are the rocks jagged or smooth? Lots of scapes incorporate both wood and rocks into the hardwood successfully. The rocks would have to compliment the wood and substrate. They are usually placed before the planting. They do take up valuable substrate space, though. A picture of the prospective rocks, C?

Liz

 

[BigC]

The rockwork would be smooth, Kelkay River Pebbles,
http/www.dobbies.com/Kelkay-River-Pebbles-Bulk-Bag-approx-900kg-/pid-300664
They're fairly small just a few here and there to accentuate the base of the wood where the flow of the river has washed silt and stones up against an immovable object i.e. the bogwood formation. Just a thought on a natural history aspect.
Pics of the pebble placement to follow.....
Q)...When you water-change do you still use your water conditioners (I personally don't use any, but for the benefit of others reading this thread) In the event of dosing the chemical additives for the plants already being administered do you desist from this practice of conditioning water
#2)... Suggestions for a non-obtrusive return pipe for an external canister filter (12mm) with links to suppliers would be appreciated. (lily-pipe or otherwise).
Regards
C

 

[lljdma06]

Looking forward to the Rock placement pictures.

QAs for your question, yes I still condition the water. Only in Washington state could I get away with keeping fish without using a conditioner. All I had to do was let the water stand as it just had chlorine. Everywhere else, they also treat the water with a chlorine ammonia mixture or something stronger.

Liz

 

[Biulu]

I know it is a little bit late in the thread (was on holiday going around Mexico with a friend) but I would replae the hygrophila with rotala rotundifolia as it has smaller leaves and would make your tank look bigger. What a pity that you couldn't replace the tank with a larger one!

I see that the tank will have direct light from the window next to your door. I have a nano tank which is placed against a window and I am having trouble with algae. You might have to adjust your photoperiod because of the natural light coming in.

 

[BigC]

The reason I didn't go for Rotala rotundifolia or even macrandra for that matter is because they are a very red plant if my memory serves me right and may require more looking after. Rotundifolia has a leaf similar in shape to the Stargrass which I want to place next to the Hygrophila, so I was looking at contrasting leaf shapes for that aspect.
The window I am well aware of Elenore and was one of the aspects I've been reading about in the various books I've amassed. Some of them actually encourage natural light. But it will as you say be a little trial and error with the artificial lighting in the early days of this setup.

Here are some pics of the stone pebbles I have included into the hard scaping

The Hydor flow devices come with an array of rubber gaskets to fit all manner of powerhead and filter connections.

I managed to join mine straight onto the Juwel powerhead itself, very much sub-surface so hopefully it will provide a good secondary circulatory flow.​