Octopus Housing Basics

Dragonscales

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I recently wrote this article on another forum and thought I'd share it here (some prompting from a certain recently modded member for a few articles largely motivated it's creation - Thanks mate, you made me pull my finger out :thumbs: :lol: ). It's just a quick one for now but I hope to write some more in depth ones when time and energy permits (moving to a new house is a chore, feel like I'm 80 atm and still have more stuff to unpack :lol: ) Enjoy!



When thinking about setting up an enclosure for an octopus it is important to keep a few things in mind, this thread will attempt to point out some of these basic needs.

The Tank

Octopuses are extremely curious animals and very capable escape artists. The tank used to house one will need to be completely secure before the animal is purchased to avoid any 8 legged wanderers encroaching on your living space. Tanks should be completely sealed with solid coverglass and weighed down by a heavy object if needed, such as an encyclopedia or such. Likewise, all piping leading to and from the tank will need to be covered with mesh, etc that is securely attached so the octopus cannot remove it.

Substrate and decorations

Octopuses are delicate creatures who spend alot of their time on the bottom of the tank and the substrate should reflect this. Fine sand with no sharp edges is a must to ensure the animal doesn't damage itself which may lead to an infection and eventually death. Any decorations within the tank should also be carefully selected to avoid any sharp or jagged edges which may rip the skin of the octopus.

Filtration

Because octopuses have a high protein diet consisting of meaty foods such as fish, prawns, etc, the filtration in the tank needs to be sufficient to cope with the increased bioload. Excessive filtration methods such as overskimming, fluidised sand beds, etc in addition to commonplace reef tank filtration is something to be taken into consideration. Where octopuses (and cuttles) differ from other predatory fish often kept - lionfish, eels, etc - is their metabolism, they are constantly hungry and can consume alot more food more often than the previously mentioned fish.

Care should be taken to securely cover any filter intakes to avoid turning your octopus into sushi as well. Live rock is a great addition to an octopus tank as it adds to the existing filtration as well as provide refuge for the often shy animal. All live rock (and other tank decor) should be set firmly in place to ensure the octopus doesn't dislodge anything and end up trapped underneath.

Tankmates

Octopuses are far from the most social of creatures and should be allocated their own living quarters. Any fish or crustacean added to the tank is a good candidate for lunch unless they are larger than the octopus, in which case the tables are turned (literally). As for other octopuses, the above still applies and they should only be placed in the same tank when breeding is to be attempted (and even then with a continuous, watchful eye from the owner followed by immediate removal upon successful copulation).
 
I didn't include tank sizes due to the fact that there is around 290 species of octopus out there ranging from a few centimeters to 6 or more feet. Not suprisingly, tank sizes vary greatly and research on the part of the buyer is essential to find out the exact species they are purchasing before a min tank size can be sought. Granted, not every species is suitable for the aquarium but a large enough number are to make even a wild generalisation all but useless. It is better to try and make an ID on a prospective octopus a member wishes to purchase then give an appropriate tank size in this case IMO.
 
In general, the more tropical the climate the shorter the lifespan when it comes to octopuses. Some species from colder parts of the world can live around 3-4 years tops but 1-2 years is the norm for the majority of octopuses. Most of the species which live the longest aren't the best candidates for aquarium life unfortunately.
 
Most of the species which live the longest aren't the best candidates for aquarium life unfortunately.

The best arguement for not keeping Anenomes i've heard. I would love to keep an octopus as they are incredibly intelligent and fascinating to watch but can't really justify keeping something that I know that i'm sending to an early grave.
 
It's not so much sending them to an early grave, just that often they reach large sizes, require a chiller and are on a whole, less active (or entertaining for those who want an octo specifically for this) due to a slower metabolism. This isn't really a sound investment for most people when they consider the animal will only live in the tank for 3 or less years (depending on age at purchase, etc). In 99% of cases it's probably just best for the buyer to stick with a tropical species which will save them a large payout on a chiller and big tank as well as provide a pet with far more "personality" for want of a better word.

Of course, this is mostly in regards to casual buyers who just want an octopus regardless of which one. As for octopus nutters, they should disregard completely as activity isn't the entire selling point of the animal and forking out for a chiller and (depending on species) a swimming pool to house it in is little concern if it means owning an animal which will provide enjoyment and companionship for up to twice as long.
 
An encyclopedia is enough for a bimac or similar non-escape octo, but you need hard contact like clamps for big escape artists, keep in mind, if the balled octo is about the size of arnauld's bicep its also just about as strong.

Edit: you're name must also not be Bender ;)
 
An encyclopedia is enought for a bimac or similar nonescape octo, but you need hard contact like claps for bigg escape artists, keep in mind, if the balled octo is about the size of arnauld's bicept its also just about as strong.

Cheers opcn, I was supposed to mention that but got sidetracked a few times while typing this up.

On a whole though I wrote the thread with bimacs in mind as these are, by far, the best octo for the beginner to get started with IMO.
 
Pacific Dwarf aint the smallest ceph I think, but it is the smallest you can get your hands on, trouble is its more expensive to buy and keep than a bimac and noctournal.
 
in t very far future i would like to get a blue ring. what tank size would you recommend for them.
 
It depends on species really, they all vary quite a bit in size from a few centimeters upwards. Personally I would steer towards a different type of octo though as the blue rings are very dangerous to keep due to their venom as well as agressiveness. Alot of people get attracted to these by their bold colourations but these are only displayed when the octo is angry, the rest of the time maintaining bland colourings. Couple this with their small size and lower activity compared to many other species and they have very little going for them other than a fearsome reputation. It is a pity that this reputation causes many to buy one based on that alone, not knowing that they are housing a potential killer in their tank who's bite is often not even felt and requires immediate medical attention as well as antivenom in most cases.

Bottom line - save your cash for a species that is more active, curious and robust, much more colourful during the majority of it's life and that isn't going to kill you if you are not absolutely, positively careful when near the tank (and not near it in the event of an escape) :good:
 
Thanks for your input. So the blue ring doesn't show its color much? i would like to get a octo, i like the fact that octopus are so smart. i don't know the first thing about them. What kind of octo would you recommend.
 

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