ronanphilip
Fish Crazy
when i first set up my tank the water here was contaminated with cryptospyridium so i brought water from a domestic well at my parents. now that the water has been ok for a while i think it is time to start using the local water. i know i should do this gradually.
bought some nutrafin water conditioner today. is this a good conditioner? says to use 10ml (approx 2 lids) per 70l to remove chlorine and 10ml per 35l to remove chloramine. problem is i dont know what is added to the water here. is it harmful to bare on the safe side and use the high dosage?
also i will prob only add about 7l (10% of 70l tank) the first few times if i put in slightly more than say half a lid could the little extra cause a prob
also i bought a fairly big bottle which should last a long time useing this amount, does it go out of date when its been opened for a long time?
i also red this about it
thanks for any advice
bought some nutrafin water conditioner today. is this a good conditioner? says to use 10ml (approx 2 lids) per 70l to remove chlorine and 10ml per 35l to remove chloramine. problem is i dont know what is added to the water here. is it harmful to bare on the safe side and use the high dosage?
also i will prob only add about 7l (10% of 70l tank) the first few times if i put in slightly more than say half a lid could the little extra cause a prob
also i bought a fairly big bottle which should last a long time useing this amount, does it go out of date when its been opened for a long time?
i also red this about it
does this mean it wont do the job properly* Note: Products where the second "Y" is in brackets are those which state that they remove chloramine, but in most cases contain only sodium thiosulfate (the same as standard dechlorinators for chlorine only). Usually, a higher dose is recommended for chloramines - this is to make sure the chlorine part is split from the chloramine and neutralised - however, this releases the ammonia part, so the chloramine is not fully dealt with. An example of the manufacturers' awareness of this, is shown by the fact that API recommend Ammo-Lock in conjunction with Stress Coat, if you need to deal with ammonia. In cases where the ingredients are not stated for standard dechlorinators, it is highly likely that the dechlorinator is sodium thiosulfate.
thanks for any advice