Nutrafin Test Disparity With Vet Tests

Kaidonni

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So, clearly at least one of my Clown Loaches and a White Cloud Mountain Minnow are in distress. The loach has a red mark around his mouth, and his skeletal structure is visible around his head (he's wasting away). At first I thought the red area was a scratch, or something irritating him, as the other two Clowns can get a bit rough, and I didn't know what to think of his head. The Minnow is rather reddish, and another is clearly wasting. Yet my remaining two Minnows look healthy (one is a male and has harrassed the others in the past), as does my Black Neon Tetra. Now, I've done some Nutrafin test kit tests (liquid tests, not the stick-based ones), and I've even gone to the vets with water, and there is a lot of confusion on my end.

My Nutrafin tests suggest:
PH ~7.5 (5/1/13)
*Ammonia ~0.3mg/L (23/12/12, 3/1/13, 5/1/13)
Nitrites ~0mg/L (4/1/13)
Nitrates ~5-10mg/L (4/1/13)

*To my knowledge, the Nutrafin test doesn't discriminate between toxic ammonia (NH3) and ionised ammonia (NH4), and the instructions are somewhat confusing too. They suggest that if the results are over 1.2mg/L to test PH, and then use the chart on the back of the instruction leaflet to determine if toxic ammonia is present. Am I to take it that such a kit will almost always detect ammonia in some form, and that my current stats suggest it is likely in non-toxic form?

The vet tests suggest Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates are all very high, in the danger zone...except over the phone I was advised to take in water from the filter. I asked if their tests would detect parasites, possibly through the fish waste (the receptionist said it would). I basically squeezed water out of the carbon and polyester filter sponges, along with some waste, while my own tests are with a pipette and right from tank water, not the filter. Would that have something to do with the disparity in my tests and the vet's? I.e. is it to be expected that ammonia and nitrites would be found in the filter, since that is where ammonia>nitrites>nitrates takes place?

Tank is 50-60Litres...and I know I shouldn't have Clowns in such a set-up, but I had them way back when I was very naive and uninformed, and have stuck with them since. One of them is +8 years, the other two coming up to 8 in September/October (actually, I had a larger fish tank before 2009...had to emergency evac to this one, with NO opportunity for cycling in-between...no idea how the Clowns survived that ordeal). Up to now, I've had no issues, been able to keep the stats fish friendly. Never ever had Ich or Velvet *touch wood*. My main concern with moving these fish is stressing them out far too much, since they are very difficult to catch. However, recent developments have convinced me it might be time to change that outlook...but that will now have to be addressed after the current situation has been resolved.

I am currently doing water changes, 10L yesterday, 10L today, and 10L tomorrow. Added Nutrafin Cycle yesterday (but have never used it previously), and will also tomorrow. I did change one of the carbon filters about a month or so ago (could this have caused an ammonia spike? I always douse any replacement media in water I have already cleaned dirty media in to retain beneficial bacteria). I previously dosed the aquarium with Nutrafin Aqua Plus for the so-called scratches (that aren't scratches afterall...). Last clean was 24th December (10L), after noticing that ~0.3mg/L ammonia on the 23rd, and before that it was the 19th.

EDIT: Not sure, but the catfish pellets I feed the Clowns may have become damp at some point (no way that any liquid got into them, though). A few of them were clumped together, but if they'd gotten damp, I'd think most would clump. Maybe the way they were made? I use the lid from the catfish pellet tub to dish out the flake food rather than touch it with my hands (some flake food is stuck to the lid). Here I go obsessing...
 
Forgot to add about rapid gill movement, although the gills do not appear to be inflamed on the Clown.
 
Before we go into the Clown Loach issue (been over it in chat)...I'm taking the minnow to the vets on Monday to see if his health issue is related in any way to the one Clown, and also if it is something the whole tank could be affected by (hopefully not). After that has been resolved - including any antibiotic treatments followed through - I am going to be removing the Clowns from the tank (will have to find someone who can look after them in Dudley, the UK). I know I've been stupid and naive, and plan to resolve the issue - but not before I know I'm *not* dumping a potential bacterial infection on the person who receives them (I'm certain they would not appreciate me damaging the health of all their fish).
 
I'm sorry I'm not very familiar with the Nutrafin test but it does sound quite confusing and difficult to read. I would probably try another test kit (such as API) and see what results that kicks up.

If you suspect that the ammonia reading really is high, like your vet seems to think, then I would do a large water change immediately (say 80-90%?). 10l a day for an ammonia problem is too small (if indeed that is the problem).

Are you performing a fish-in cycle?
 
No, no cycles being performed. This tank has been running since August 2009. I changed one of the carbon pads, but didn't anticipate that might have been the cause of my issues.

The test kit isn't that hard to read, it's just not entirely clear on what it means when it states combining the PH test with the ammonia test (in other words, if it's 0.2-0.3mg/L, then what? The wording could be seen to imply it isn't toxic, but I've been told in chat that I shouldn't have either NH3 or NH4 in the tank, so toxic or not...still no good).

About the vet test - I took the water for that directly from the filter pads. I actually squeezed the water out of them and included some waste from the filter (I was told that the test could also be for parasites, and if they were in the fish waste...). I tested my stats after they told me their results, and it didn't add up at all. It's a brand new test kit (even the old one, three years old, gave me the same results). I suspect I was misinformed what source of water was best for the test (again...fish waste from the filter, so there probably would be ammonia and nitrites in there).
 
Changing the carbon pad could have caused a spike as some of the bacteria was lost, but I would've thought the bacteria would have built up enough by now.

Well I would still proceed with the water changes until the reading is zero and keep re-testing and water changing until it is consistently at that level.

Good luck with your tank, I hope your fish pull through! :good:
 
Anyone else able to advise on the issue, especially regarding the wasting?
 
not 100% sounds like ur clown has skinny disease

heres some info on it got it from here http://www.bollmoraakvarieklubb.org/artiklar/praktbotia/clown%20loach.htm

Clown loaches enjoy food pellets.
Special problems:
There is a couple of things that you should keep watch for concerning Clown loaches. The most common problem is white-spot, these fish are easily struck down by this disease. This often occurs when the fish have been kept too cold or in newly bought fish after being transported. Habitual fish that are well cared for are not more susceptable than others, in the ten years that I have kept these fish privately, I have only had white-spot once. For safety´s sake always have white-spot medicine at home if you acquire botia, it can save lives. White-spot is easily cured but can be a catastrophy if not treated.


N.B! follow the dosage instructions carefully for all medicines, some medicines recommend half the normal dosage for just loaches, because they can be sensitive to some ingredients, mainly coppercombinations.


Loss of weight or "skinny disease" is also quite common in Clown loaches. Typical symptoms are loss of weight and behaviour known as "knifeback" even though the fish is acting and eating normally. This sickness is more difficult to treat, it comes from a parasite organism (spironucleus) in the intestines of the same type that is thought to cause the so called "discus disease". I have successfully removed this disease from newly imported fish by using Spirohexol from JBL in the form of tablets. I have taken one tablet and crushed it and dissolve it in as little water as possible. I have then used discus granules which have been soaked in the solution. It becomes like a thick porridge after a short time when the food has drawn in the liquid. I then feed this to the sick fishes, after a week it looks like the sickness is gone. For the best possible effect do not feed with any other food. Flagyl (Metronidazole) also helps fight against this sickness but at least here in Sweden it is on prescription and can be a little difficult to come by.
 
Thank you for the info. Ironic, I've never ever had ich in this fish tank (and considering the emergency evac back in 2009 into a non-cycled tank and the conditions all my fish would have endured...I'm lucky). I'm considering taking one of the minnows to a vet if there is one near enough (the vet who tested for the water stats is too far away, it'd be a one-way journey).

What about the filter if I tried those tablets? Do I need to remove the carbon sponges, and for how long? My main concern is screwing up the biological filter, either by medication or removing the sponges themselves (no sponges, no friendly bacteria).
 
i try not to medicate in big tank . so i sit for hours watching fish lol , to make sure they are all good , i also have a quarentine tank i put fish in when i need to medicate them so im not upseting the sensitive clowns /fish ..

as with all medication with clowns it will be wise to only put in half dose , as they are really sensitive , .and yesh when i have had to medicate big tank it does mess my water up bug time :S and yesh u would need to remove the carbon as that would just kill of the medication quicker if u dont

have you got a spare tank ? for treating meds only ? i bought a small one that is 15 gals to medicate fish in , bought from home bargins for £13.00 it had a filter in with it , so only needed to buy a small heater :)
 
No spare tank here. In the past, I've avoided meds due to having a bad experience using them (likely an over-dose). One of my main concerns is if this is something my other fish could also get, or possibly already have but haven't shown any symptoms of yet.
 
well i would just keep a watchful eye on the rest of them

signs for fish not happy is flashing about in the tank , flicking about on decos etc ..
its hard to say what the cause is so not sure the best way forward about treating something we dont know the name off

read up fish diseases and see if anything seams to be a probable cause ..


http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/10266-fish-diseases/
 
I've looked at a variety of causes, but without going to the vets, there's no real way of telling. If it was only down to the ammonia issue, I'd expect all of the fish to have the same symptoms. I am seriously thinking bacterial infection/parasite, possibly as a result of the ammonia issue.

EDIT: There is a vets close by that I might be able to take the minnows to, hopefully they call me back soon. Not even trying to catch the clown yet, though. That'll be too much for him.
 
To clear up the nutrafin ammonia test thing, the test chemicals cannot distinguish between NH3 and NH4+. At lower pH, more of the ammonia is in the less toxic NH4+, and at higher pH (which 7.5 is) there is more of it as NH3. But your filter needs to be getting rid of it one or the other.
 

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