Does not look bloated. Dont really have any where to isolate him. Might give my lfs a call as they have isolation tanks.
Not Sure If Its A Disease
- Thread starter tez2k007
- Start date
Does not look bloated. Dont really have any where to isolate him. Might give my lfs a call as they have isolation tanks.
not offering help but that is a beautiful angel!
all the best with him/her?!
cheers
all the best with him/her?!
cheers
Signs of internal parasites are.
Long stringy white poo or clear mucas poo.
Worms prutruding from the anus.
Enlarged anus or red inflamed anus.
Fish will look skinny or bloated.
Fish will sometimes swim or tip on it side.
Bent spine sometimes.
Sunken in belly sometimes.
Sometimes not eating.
Long stringy white poo or clear mucas poo.
Worms prutruding from the anus.
Enlarged anus or red inflamed anus.
Fish will look skinny or bloated.
Fish will sometimes swim or tip on it side.
Bent spine sometimes.
Sunken in belly sometimes.
Sometimes not eating.
Should I treat the whole tank?
Cant detect any internal parasites. Just reading somewhere else that things such as a change in ammonia or ph could be a cause for problems. I did just transfer all my fish to the new tank several days ago and the ph in my old tank was just over 6 but the ph in my new tank is nearer just over 7.
That is a big difference.
Get you some info on ph shock.
pH Shock
As its name suggests this condition occurs when a fish is introduced to quickly into a new environment which has a very different pH from the one it came from, when the pH is adjusted to quickly and the fish have little or no time to adjust themselves, or when the pH is to far outside the fishes normal range.
It is very important that any change in water chemistry is made slowly and fish should never be exposed to changes of pH greater than 0.5 of one unit on the pH scale in either direction.
Avoidance is by far the best solution because in most cases the symptoms don't appear until the second or third day by which time the damage has been done and the fish will probably die.
A fish suffering from this condition will show all the typical signs of shock -
Lying on the bottom and paying little or no attention to its surroundings and ignoring potential threats.
It may even lay on its side or go upside down completely.
There could be other signs to, related to Acidosis and Alkalosis
Excessive mucus production.
Rapid breathing.
Swollen abdomen. (Alkalosis only).
If the condition is allowed to go on for one or two days then the chances of a successful remedy are greatly reduced because a lot of damage will have taken place. If the symptoms are spotted early enough there are a couple of things that will help.
Begin to return the pH to the original pH in steps of 0.4 of one unit on the pH scale and allow 3 hrs in between the adjustments. Make these adjustments until the pH is returned to a safe and satisfactory level.
Treat the tank with a broad spectrum anti-Bacteria/Fungus compound to prevent secondary infections of the Skin and Gills.
Prevention is easy. A successful treatment isn't!
PH SHOCK LINK
http
/groups.msn.com/FishHealth/phshock.msnw
Get you some info on ph shock.
pH Shock
As its name suggests this condition occurs when a fish is introduced to quickly into a new environment which has a very different pH from the one it came from, when the pH is adjusted to quickly and the fish have little or no time to adjust themselves, or when the pH is to far outside the fishes normal range.
It is very important that any change in water chemistry is made slowly and fish should never be exposed to changes of pH greater than 0.5 of one unit on the pH scale in either direction.
Avoidance is by far the best solution because in most cases the symptoms don't appear until the second or third day by which time the damage has been done and the fish will probably die.
A fish suffering from this condition will show all the typical signs of shock -
Lying on the bottom and paying little or no attention to its surroundings and ignoring potential threats.
It may even lay on its side or go upside down completely.
There could be other signs to, related to Acidosis and Alkalosis
Excessive mucus production.
Rapid breathing.
Swollen abdomen. (Alkalosis only).
If the condition is allowed to go on for one or two days then the chances of a successful remedy are greatly reduced because a lot of damage will have taken place. If the symptoms are spotted early enough there are a couple of things that will help.
Begin to return the pH to the original pH in steps of 0.4 of one unit on the pH scale and allow 3 hrs in between the adjustments. Make these adjustments until the pH is returned to a safe and satisfactory level.
Treat the tank with a broad spectrum anti-Bacteria/Fungus compound to prevent secondary infections of the Skin and Gills.
Prevention is easy. A successful treatment isn't!
PH SHOCK LINK
http
/groups.msn.com/FishHealth/phshock.msnwThat is a big difference.
Get you some info on ph shock.
pH Shock
As its name suggests this condition occurs when a fish is introduced to quickly into a new environment which has a very different pH from the one it came from, when the pH is adjusted to quickly and the fish have little or no time to adjust themselves, or when the pH is to far outside the fishes normal range.
It is very important that any change in water chemistry is made slowly and fish should never be exposed to changes of pH greater than 0.5 of one unit on the pH scale in either direction.
Avoidance is by far the best solution because in most cases the symptoms don't appear until the second or third day by which time the damage has been done and the fish will probably die.
A fish suffering from this condition will show all the typical signs of shock -
Lying on the bottom and paying little or no attention to its surroundings and ignoring potential threats.
It may even lay on its side or go upside down completely.
There could be other signs to, related to Acidosis and Alkalosis
Excessive mucus production.
Rapid breathing.
Swollen abdomen. (Alkalosis only).
If the condition is allowed to go on for one or two days then the chances of a successful remedy are greatly reduced because a lot of damage will have taken place. If the symptoms are spotted early enough there are a couple of things that will help.
Begin to return the pH to the original pH in steps of 0.4 of one unit on the pH scale and allow 3 hrs in between the adjustments. Make these adjustments until the pH is returned to a safe and satisfactory level.
Treat the tank with a broad spectrum anti-Bacteria/Fungus compound to prevent secondary infections of the Skin and Gills.
Prevention is easy. A successful treatment isn't!
PH SHOCK LINK
[URL="http
Hmmmm I think this may have been the cause. Whats a good way to bring it down. I have just added plants today as had none in as was waiting for them to come. I did also have rocks in my old tank which I dont have in this one.
I think its to late now to start changing ph.
How long has it been a big difference in ph.
You should always match ph and temp before moving fish.
A cycling tank the ph can be all over the place.
I would just add a bacterial med.
How long has it been a big difference in ph.
You should always match ph and temp before moving fish.
A cycling tank the ph can be all over the place.
I would just add a bacterial med.
Ok will do cheers.
Not looking too good. Got up this morning and could not find him anywhere. After good look he was pushed up against the filter just floating. Thought he was dead so tried to move him and he came out. He is swimming around now but does not seem himself. Tried to feed but does not seem interested. Dosed with Myxazin so will see how it goes.
Anna Robinson
Fish Fanatic
There are no species of fish that have a problem with Melafix, so if using it I would always stick to the recommended dose.
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