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No ferts no Co2 plants

PygmyPepperJulli

Fish Crazy
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Theoretically, I know this isn't a concept, as all plants need some form of nutrition.
However, I want a extremely low set-up tank (for my new one which I haven't got yet) and don't want to spend money on Co2 and ferts. It will be slightly aciic and tropical, if that helps.

Suggestions?
So far I'm thinking java fern and java moss (which I already have in a no ferts/co2 tank)
Pearlweed
Hopefully val
Elodea
Hornwort
Maybe some sort of crypts

Would any of these work?
Thanks
 
With a deep sand substrate, most crypts can do well in this sort of setup. A little soil under your sand can help them get off to a good start, but it isn't necessary and can cause more trouble than it's worth if you have any burrowing fish. I've never had much luck with elodea, but lots of people do. If your lighting is fairly bright, I've had pretty good luck with dwarf sagittaria and clover fern (Marsilea crenata) too. It's the only carpet plant I've ever had that actually made a carpet.

All of my tanks are fairly low-tech, with no CO2 and no ferts except fish waste. (I do cheat and add a few root tabs to my 150g every few months, as the amazon swords seem to appreciate the extra help) Heck, my last three setups don't even have filters. I haven't figured out a way to eliminate the pumps and lighting, though. :lol:
 
Thanks for the response.

When you say soil, I'm assuming you mean proper planted tank soil/bagged stuff from a lfs/online. Is it possible to just use garden soil or plain dirt from Bunnings? (What you call 'home depot', I think). I've also tried elodea (a friend gave me a piece) but it just turned transparent and rotted. I only put it on the list as I was considering giving it a second go. I'll research dwarf sagittaria and clover fern too :).

I've always been a bit scared of crypts as I've heard they wither away really easily, especially with fluctuating temperatures/being moved, but I'll give them a try.
 
Is there a reason you want to go no fertiliser? Most plants will do much better with some kind of fertiliser, even if it's just root tabs every once in a while.
 
Im poor :) I know they'll do better, but I'm looking for plants that'll do ok with no added ferts in a decently stocked tank

I do have some Flourish but I'm pretty sure it doesn't do anything from past results
 
You can use just about any soil as long as it doesn't have any chemical fertilizers added, and you want to stay away from perlite (the little, white, spongy bits) because it floats. Bagged soil will usually have a list of ingredients (at least it does in the USA), so check it and avoid any with added fertilizer or manure.

I suspect elodea just needs a LOT of light. Look into hornwort as a more adaptable option.
 
Im poor :) I know they'll do better, but I'm looking for plants that'll do ok with no added ferts in a decently stocked tank

I do have some Flourish but I'm pretty sure it doesn't do anything from past results
I don't spend loads on fertiliser, probs £10 ish every few months for my tank size (sorry not sure what AUD equivalent would be). Not sure how much root tabs are in Aus but that might be a good alternative as you don't need to use them so frequently.
 
are you looking at any floating plants??? there are also a number of house plants that can grow out of an aquarium, with no fertilizer, if there is at least some fish bio load... assuming you'll have enough fish in the tank for nutrients for the plants you are considering
 
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I have not had much luck with hornwort, or Eloda but have had great success with the various Vallisnerias. They take a bit to get established but then grow quite rapidly.
 
They take a bit to get established but then grow quite rapidly.
That's weird you say that. I put val in my 150g, and it all melted away and that was that. Over a year later, I was quite suddenly overrun with huge vals. Now I have to pull out several of them every week. Takes its time, val does.
 
Cleaning day, jungle vals in my tanks with a cheap Top Fin light on one tank and a cheap Nicrew G2 on the large tank. I came back from vacation so it was nearly 2.5 weeks without a water change.
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Air has CO2. Simply increasing ware air mixing will add CO2 to the tank. My filter spray bar is located just below the water surface and it pointed up and a little sideways. This creases a constant wave at the surface. Or you could create a small water fall. If you have enough mixing CO2 levels will stabilize at 10ppm CO2 with stable oxygen levels..

Many people using CO2 use diffusers and drop checker and aim for 30ppm CO2 level. I tried this approach but it needed frequent monitoring to maintain stable CO2 flow. Too much CO2 and you kill the fish. I switched to Passive CO2. It is much more efficient then diffusers which release bubbles into the water. WIth diffusers some of the CO2 never dissolves in the water and is simply released into the air. With Passive CO2 all CO2 dissolves in the water. With a diffuser I wasrefillingmay paintball CO2 tank about 3times a year. Since going to passive I have have gone 2 years without a refill in my small shrimp tank. The inverted bottle in the tank should be located at a location with water flow around the opening to get good mixing and to creat a uniform amount of CO2 throughout th tank. I have my passive CO2 system on a timer. it is automatically refilled daily. I adjust by CO2 system so that it usually fills the container without overfilling. If it does overfill the excess harmlessly bubbles out. You don't need a drop checkered my system has goon weeks without any adjustment.

With Passive CO2 and water air mixing at the surface of my tank insures CO2 and Oxygen levels in the water are always stable.

however you also need neutrients in the water for plants to grow. There are 14 nutrients needed and CO2 is just one is missing the plants will not grow or will die. The biggest problem people have with plants is getting the fertilization right. Some fertilizers don't last long in the water while others do. So some people have to dose fertilizer every other day while others only need it once a week. Many fertilizer manufactures assume you have nutrients in your tap water. But in todays world everyone has different water. and if you are using RO water your water has no nutrients leading to deficiency. Having a lot of fish in the tank helps because the fish waste add .nutrients.

I personally am using 100% RO water in my shrimp tank With commercial fertilizers couldn't grow anything but algae. Only after I decided to try making my own fertilizer did I have success with plants.

Due to the fertilizer issues many just try potting soil as the substrate. This can work if you choose the right basin the store but it is impossible to know which product will work best. Others use backyard soilor clay in the substrate. it is a trial and error process. One problem with soil substrates is that they nutrients in the soil will eventually run out. Some people have to replace the substate yearly ore veryoother year. Manyalso refer to old tank syndrome were plants die and algae takes over. This in my experience this is mainly a nutrient issue.

Now a lot of people say some plant only work in tanks thth CO2. No. If the nutrient levels in your water barely enough some plants will grow while others will not. Some people only have luck with one type of plant in a tank while all others fail to grow.
 
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Thanks so much everyone!

By the sounds of it, Val is definitely a go, and I'll try my luck at some crypts and maybe hornwort too. I'll try a bit of no-added fertilized soil under the substrate (not planning on having any burrowing fish) and will make sure there's surface aeration to add Co2. I have tank rather than town water, which I think would have less nutrients than normal water, so I probably will need the soil or a pretty highly-stocked tank.
I'll probably add some frogbit from my current tank in regards to floating plants, and was considering adding maybe devil's ivy or some sort of fern for houseplants.
Dwarf saggitaria and clover fern sounds pretty good if it carpets, I've never had a carpet because they sounded really high maintenance but I might try these! :)

Has anyone in this forum had any experience with pearlweed/guppy grass?

And by the way, Uberhoust, your tank looks amazing! what sort of angels are they?
 
Plants have differing needs when it comes to both light and nutrients. And these two are inter-related; if the light i insufficient, or too bright, to balance the nutrients, you will not be successful. You have some plants requiring more of both.

Soil is not something I would recommend. It has issues, and may not provide anything anyway. Within a year, it will be worse than inert sand/fine gravel.
 
Crypts, like swords, need substrate ferts. I use jobes plant SPikes for lush Ferns and Palms. These can be cut to any size needed, However, they are ill suited for tyhos who like to replant. If you mess with you substrate as a replanter/scaper and the spikes come up out of the substrate, you wiill very quickly earn your MBA (Mastered By Algae).

I add the proper sized pieces of the Spikes every three months or so. I have used these for close to 20 years now and they are dirt cheap. I also use water table ferts as well. I am a big fan of the Tropica plant ferts and have used them for even longer than the Jobes. Today Tropica offers two ferts: One is a comprehensive and the other has none of the Macros.
Premium Nutrition -->
  • Contains iron, magnesium and vital micro nutrients
  • Does not contain nitrogen and phosphor
  • Suitable for aquariums with few or slow-growing plants and many fish
and

Specialised Nutrition-->
  • Contains nitrogen and phosphor for fast-growing and demanding plants
  • Also contains iron, magnesium and vital micro nutrients
  • Suitable for aquariums with many and fast-growing plants

If you do not want to have to fertilize a planted tank you must go with slower growing less demanding plants. Ferns and anubias are typical of this. Also have a look at the tropical list for easy to keep plants. Easy means they are much less demanding.
https://tropica.com/en/plants/search/?mode=search&sew=&dif=Easy&pgr=&ori=&use=
 

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