Nitrite Spike...

[Torred1771]

On Sunday I added 10 Five Banded Barbs to my tank, which I know would have triggered a nitrite spike, question is how long will it take to come back down? Ive done my nitrite tests every day since, added 10ml of stress coat and stress zyme every day, twice yesterday and done a water change and it doesnt seem to have helped!

 

[Fishy friend2]

It should continue to rise and stay at that level until the nitrifying bacteria in the filter can catch up, this usually takes about a week at the most

 

[Torred1771]

It should continue to rise and stay at that level until the nitrifying bacteria in the filter can catch up, this usually takes about a week at the most

I hope it doesnt harm my fish, at this point they all seem to be happy.

 

[Fishy friend2]

Just maintain levels, and make sure that you do water changes when it goes over 80ppm

 

[Torred1771]

Just maintain levels, and make sure that you do water changes when it goes over 80ppm

It has never gone that high.

 

[fluttermoth]

Just maintain levels, and make sure that you do water changes when it goes over 80ppm

I think you're confusing nitrIte and nitrAte.

NitrIte is highly toxic to fish and needs to be as close to zero as possible; certainly never over 0.25ppm.

Large water changes are needed; possibly even more than one a day if it doesn't stop rising to dangerous levels.

 

[Fishy friend2]

Sorry I confused nitrites with nitrates...... A deadly mistake. Ideally you should do water changes when it goes over 0 ppm as this is toxic to fish, even in low levels

Yeah flutter, I was just reading a topic on nitrates so I was mainly focused on them, then I replied in. This thread and got myself confused

 

[KittyKat]

Are you doing water changes to keep nitrite below 0.25 ppm? If not, then I strongly recommend that you do. I would personally not put my trust in Stress Zyme or anything similar as I have not seen these products work.

What was your starting stock? How old is the filter/tank/set-up? The problem you are seeing is caused by a too high increase in ammonia being produced in the tank, so it would help to be able to estimate how much ammonia was in the tank before the new fish.

 

[Torred1771]

Are you doing water changes to keep nitrite below 0.25 ppm? If not, then I strongly recommend that you do. I would personally not put my trust in Stress Zyme or anything similar as I have not seen these products work.

What was your starting stock? How old is the filter/tank/set-up? The problem you are seeing is caused by a too high increase in ammonia being produced in the tank, so it would help to be able to estimate how much ammonia was in the tank before the new fish.

The tank has been set up a month today. Previous stock where nitrite was as close to zero as possible was 6 Harlequin Rasbora and 8 Black Phantom Tetra. I have done a water change yesterday. The problem with doing so many water changes so close together is my tap water is 6.0-6.5 and it always drops my tanks ph down from 7.2-7.5.

 

[Fishy friend2]

You could tr and use a small siphon to introduce new water into the tank, if you use this method then the hardness and PH won't drastically change as fast and will be less likely to have any negative affect towards the tank inhabitants

 

[Torred1771]

You could tr and use a small siphon to introduce new water into the tank, if you use this method then the hardness and PH won't drastically change as fast and will be less likely to have any negative affect towards the tank inhabitants

so you mean the way I pour the water in the tank can effect the ph???

 

[Fishy friend2]

if you pour it in fast and the tap, and the previous tank water has a substantially large difference then thee PH will most likely change depending on how much percentage of the water you change. but unlike changing it a slower rate, the PH and hardness will change very fast, most likely resulting in shock. so When you add it in a lower rate then there is a less likely chance of the PH, and hardness changing very fast. resulting in less likely chance of the fish going into shock due to the change in parameters. but either way, the PH, and hardness will change

 

[Torred1771]

if you pour it in fast and the tap, and the previous tank water has a substantially large difference then thee PH will most likely change depending on how much percentage of the water you change. but unlike changing it a slower rate, the PH and hardness will change very fast, most likely resulting in shock. so When you add it in a lower rate then there is a less likely chance of the PH, and hardness changing very fast. resulting in less likely chance of the fish going into shock due to the change in parameters. but either way, the PH, and hardness will change

I dont quite follow...I dont just put water out of the tap directly into the tank. I put the water in a bucket, then dip it out with a jug and pour into the tank. So you say if I add it physically slower, then the ph wont be effected as much?

if you pour it in fast and the tap, and the previous tank water has a substantially large difference then thee PH will most likely change depending on how much percentage of the water you change. but unlike changing it a slower rate, the PH and hardness will change very fast, most likely resulting in shock. so When you add it in a lower rate then there is a less likely chance of the PH, and hardness changing very fast. resulting in less likely chance of the fish going into shock due to the change in parameters. but either way, the PH, and hardness will change

I dont quite follow...I dont just put water out of the tap directly into the tank. I put the water in a bucket, then dip it out with a jug and pour into the tank. So you say if I add it physically slower, then the ph wont be effected as much?

 

[Fishy friend2]

if you just get a bucket then dump it in then the PH will change very fast, when you slowly introduce it, The PH wont change as fast

 

[N0body Of The Goat]

What is the (liquid test) reading for nitrite showing now?

If it is 0.25mg/l or higher, in your position I would net all the fish into a bucket no more than quarter filled ith their current and then replace all the tank water (having naturally turned off the heater and filter). Get the heater and filter going again once refilled.

I would then drip acclimitise the fish to this new water (4 drops per second max) until the bucket is filled with the old/new water mix. This will take some time, which is good, it gives the fish chance to adjust to the water chemistry differences.

Then net the fish back to the tank. You will probably want to top up the tank after losing water to the bucket, use fresh dechlorinated water. Plenty of surface rippling (can be achieved by a lower water level than "normal") will provide extra oxygen for both the fish and the bacteria, helping them to reproduce to cope with these new barbs quicker.