Nitrates Of 40ppm And Brown Algea

freddiesfish

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Evening all, as the title says really, have recently bought a rena 300 tank with the xp2 filter and transferred my fish and pf2 internal filter across, all stats at zero except nitrAte wich is at 40ppm, although that's aso what it comes out the tap at.
In the xp2 external filter have the course and fine sponge, then some of the rings/stars and then I have the bio zorb bag and a nitrta zorb bag squeezed in together then the fine sponge. Would it hurt to take out the biozorb as I am not convinced its filtering through all the media as by squeezing in both bags there is a small gap in the top chamber so may remove it. Bought the nitra zorb as it supposedly removes nitrates as well as the ammo and nitrite. The tank is starting to get the brown algea and it looks crap to be honest. Is this linked to the nitrate or another problem?

I am considering taking out the pf2 internal filter and get an additional external filter and set it up with whatever I need to keep the water crystal clear and hopefully brown algea free, any suggestions?

Thanks
 
No, I am going to say no to the nitrate and algae linking.

Also, a NitrAte reading of 40 ppm is fine.

I would not use any chemicals to remove nitrAte at all.

Have a look at this site to see if you can identify what kind of algae it is.

http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm

-FHM
 
Thanks for the reply, am sure its the brown algea but is says its caused by ammonia and filter not being mature? Used the api master kit and it shows ammonia at 0ppm. Also one of the filter was already running in the old tank and I put the old sponges from the other filter in the old tank in with the new on the new xp2 filter so it shouldn't be a problem (I would think). The brown patches have started to form inside the clear filter tubes, on the intake pipe for filter, on edges of silk plants and rocks and on top of the gravel, spent a lot on the tank so wanted to keep it looking clean and healthy for fish.

Any other ideas? Would be appreciated! (Not meant to sound sarcastic by the way, do appreciate your input)
 
Is this a brand new tank?

Also, does this tank get any direct sunlight?

-FHM
 
Yes its a new tank but one filter got moved across with the same sponges and the other filter has existing media put in with the new. The tank is not in direct sunlight really, its at the front of the house where the sun is always up in the back garden. I thought it may have been due to the nitrates being higher than 0 but obviously not. Get a little bit of green algea on the front of the tank but what the snails don't get comes off easy with the magnetic cleaner, just the brown stuff that's causing a problem.
 
And your Ammonia reading is zero?

It is probably from the Silicates, which come from the silicon found in new tanks.

It can take up to a couple of weeks until the silicates are gone.

-FHM
 
Ok I will wait for a few more weeks then before spending anymore on extra filters, its been up and running probably 3 weeks now but only been in the last 5-7 days the brown algea has appeared

Thanks for the advice
 
Its common for brown algae in new set ups, however, one of my tanks is 6/7 months running and Im still getting it. The higher nitrAtes and phosphates in the water are a cause so frequent water changes if your tap water is high in these wont make a difference to it, direct sunlight will effect it as will low levels of tank lights. How long are you tank lights on for daily? I found when I have them on for under 7 unders a day, the algae is worse, however, keeping them on for over 8 seems to keep it down. Until it subsides and it should eventually, just brush it off with your fingers or a brush (that hasnt been used for anything else).
 
We usually put the lights on about 13.00 and turn them off at 22.00, is this too long?
 
Has nobody got any experience with the rena xp2 filter? Could it be that having the biochem bag and the nitrazorb bag squeezed in the same chamber together is making it not work properly?

I was thinking of getting some ottos but have read they dont like nitrAte above 5ppm and with mine leaving the tap at 40ppm I doubt they would last long.

I am still wondering whether to set up an additional external filter and have one running with the sponges, rings and nitra zorb and the other running with sponges, rings and bio chem. Would this just be wasting money (i havent really got)?

I have also read about phos-zorb, which supposedly removes phosphates and silicates from the water. From the advice so far and other bits I have searched on the internet, silicates promote the algae growth.


AAARRRRGGGGHHH

I only want the tank to stay relatively clean, dont get me wrong, I dont mind doing the water changes and cleaning off the algae once a week but when the brown stuff starts covering the gravel, plant leaves, ornaments and everything else it gets a bit much

any magic wands available??

ps, thanks for the replies so far, appreciate it
 
Brown diatoms use silica to form a shell. I can now start tanks with brand new sand, giving a great source of silica, and never see brown diatoms because I use Zeolite. Zeolite, however, may not be the answer for you.

Forget nitrates, phosphates and silica. The cause is ammonia. Your kit says zero when it isn`t. Bear with the algae, which is easy to clean off, and it should go away.

Dave.
 
Just got back from swallow aquatics and have been advised to maybe start using RO water when I do the water change. They suggested getting a 25l container and get that filled weekly with RO water. With a 300l tank I am asuming I would need more than that though.

Any thoughts or opinions on using RO water? How would my fish take to it being introduced?
 
Just got back from swallow aquatics and have been advised to maybe start using RO water when I do the water change. They suggested getting a 25l container and get that filled weekly with RO water. With a 300l tank I am asuming I would need more than that though.

Any thoughts or opinions on using RO water? How would my fish take to it being introduced?
Pure RO water is bad for freshwater fish, stick with what you're doing
 
Like stated above, pure RO water is not good for fresh water fish.

RO has a neutral pH, lacks in beneficial minerals and has low levels of O2.

If you do use RO water, you would have to mix it with tap water.

Personally, I would not go down that road. It will most likely be a hassle; just stick with tap water unless there is some radical reason as to why you can't use your tap water.

-FHM
 

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