Newbie Here With Lots A Questions Regarding Water Changes

[JMAN2828]

So (after extensive research) I've had my tank completely set up for about a week now. (Cycled, fish inside)
I've tested and had my water tested and everything seems to be in check. I don't have any questions regarding that.
But now,in about a week I plan on performing my first water change and I'm pretty clueless on how to go about that. I know I need one of those vacuums but that's pretty much it. Some questions are. How much water do I take out? Do I vacuum the entire tank? Do the fish stay in the tank while all of this occurs? Do I condition the new water in a bucket before adding it to the tank? Pretty much need a step by step guide on how to do this.
And after the water change is done are their any special steps a shpould take to ensure everything goes smoothly afterwards? Also while cycling my tank I was adding a bio bacteria and I believe after a water change I was told to add a little more of that in there again? Also one more question. I've read that most of my beneficial bacteria grows in the filter cartridge. But..the packaging says to replace that cartridge every 2-4 weeks. So wouldn't that be completely wiping my tank out of the essential bacteria? I'm sorry this is just a barrage of questions I just have so many and I want to get this right. Thank you for taking the time to read all of this! Happy new year!

 

[RainboWBacoN420]

You're on the right path for the most part. I would suggest waiting just a bit longer than a week for the tank to be fully cycled before adding fish. Cycling can take anywhere from a few weeks to a month. You need to make sure the pH is stable, and that there is absolutely no ammonia or nitrites present in the water. How big is your tank and what fish have you put in there? 
 
Anyways, going about water changes. DO NOT replace the filter cartridge 2-4 weeks like the packaging instructs. That bacteria is important, the filter is pretty much the heart of the aquarium. Do not bother changing the cartridge unless it's completely falling apart. If you do want to change the cartridge, place the new media in with the old inside the filter and leave it there while the bacteria colonizes onto the new one. You should leave it in there for about a week or so, depending on how big the cartridges are. Don't forget to rinse off the new cartridge prior to placing it in there.
As far as water changes go, change about 10-15% of the water weekly, you do not have to remove the fish unless it's a huge water change, which it most likely will not be needed. While doing a water change, don't forget to turn off the heater and turn it back on after. (I've done this too many times). With the new water you've collected into a pitcher or bucket, add the correct measured amount of dechlorinater to the new water. Let the new water sit for a few minutes to make sure the solution has neutralized the toxins and metals that can be harmful to fish. Add the water slowly, usually I scoop a cup from the new water and add it one cupful at a time. You don't have to vacuum the substrate, but it's always good to. You can simply use a turkey baster, I find it a lot more effective and less disrupting to the inhabitants of the tank. 
The liquid bacteria you've added only boosts the cycling process, again, you should have waited at least month before adding the new fish. If you can, return them to the store until the tank has had enough time to establish itself. The older aged the aquarium is, the better. Keep checking the parameters, you should see an ammonia spike, then over time the ammonia will converted into nitrites then into nitrates int he last step. Nitrates aren't as harmful to fish in small quantities, and can be absorbed by live plants. 
 
Hope this helps, keep up the research! Scan the internet, read books, talk to hobbyists at your local fish shops. Take information from common chain stores with a grain of salt. Their information can be misleading at times.

 

[Byron]

The above post has covered some of this, but it is easier for me to simply respond to a question so excuse the repetitive stuff.  I take a bit different approach to some of this.  I'm confining myself solely to your questions on water changes.
 
How much water do I take out? 
 
At least 1/3 of the tank volume, preferably 1/2.  This can depend--sort of--on the fish load, and if there are live plants.  But get into the habit of doing a significant water change; you cannot change too much water, but changing too little has very limited benefit, if any.  I have 7 tanks in my fish room, and about 60% or 65% of the volume is changed every week without fail.  Nothing is so important for healthy fish than regular substantial partial water changes.  And they should be once every week, on the same day preferably.
 
Do I vacuum the entire tank? 
 
This can depend upon plants, and fish, and substrate, and feeding.  Generally, vacuum the open areas, but not under rock, wood, decor, or close to plant roots.  You can go into the substrate a bit, again it rather depends.  The substrate is the most important area of an aquarium, even more than the filter.  There are more bacteria, and different types of bacteria including anaerobic, living in a healthy substrate than in any filter.  A healthy substrate is a healthy aquarium.  I can detail this more if asked.
 
Do the fish stay in the tank while all of this occurs? 
 
Yes, absolutely.  They may be a bit skittish, or sometimes they get used to it and you can't keep them out of the tube.  But the stress from your banging around their environment will be far less than would be the stress of netting them out and then back.
 
Do I condition the new water in a bucket before adding it to the tank?
 
If you are using buckets, yes.  Conditioners work instantly, so just add the amount for the water in the bucket as you fill the bucket.  It is best not to pour from the bucket as this is rather uncontrollable, so you can siphon it in with a tube/hose (if the bucket can be placed above the tank level for gravity to work) or use a cup or similar vessel.
 
And after the water change is done are their any special steps a shpould take to ensure everything goes smoothly afterwards? 
 
After re-filling, turn the filter/heater back on [both should be disconnected before you begin to siphon out water, the heater especially, but the filter may not run with lower water and regardless it is best to have it off] and then observe to ensure the fish are OK.  There's no reason they shouldn't be, unless you forgot the conditioner or the water was too cold/hot, but check.  And the temperature of the replacement water can normally be slightly cooler (I use my hand to gage) which replicates a rainstorm and will often invigorate the fish to even spawn.
 
Also while cycling my tank I was adding a bio bacteria and I believe after a water change I was told to add a little more of that in there again? 
 
Once the aquarium is cycled, it is not necessary to add a bacterial supplement (some manufacturers recommend you do, they want to sell more of it 

) though it really won't hurt if you do, and once opened these products should be used up or discarded.
 
Also one more question. I've read that most of my beneficial bacteria grows in the filter cartridge. But..the packaging says to replace that cartridge every 2-4 weeks. So wouldn't that be completely wiping my tank out of the essential bacteria?
 
As I mentioned above, the substrate is more important, but having said that, the filter may have a more critical role if the tank is overstocked or has issues affecting the biological system.  But there is no need to discard filter media unless it is so old it is no longer functioning as it should.  Water getting around or easily through worn-out foam, or being blocked, is not what you want.  Rinse the media weekly after the water change.  Some will tell you to do this with tank water, and at first that is likely safer for new aquarists.  Once the tank is established, under the tap is fine, as again there are more bacteria in the substrate, and on every surface covered by water, and provided the tank is biologically balanced (fish to water) you will not have issues doing this.
 
Feel free to question, I tried to be brief and summarize.
 
Byron.

 

[NickAu]

 
They may be a bit skittish, or sometimes they get used to it and you can't keep them out of the tube.

Yes I know that well. If My Betta is not attacking the hose its trying to attack my fingers.

 

[vwdank]

Very good post Byron, for one i didn't even think about the substrate having good bacteria; I guess thats why I'm a beginner. 
 
My question is if I am changing out 20-50% a week How often or when should I vacuum the substrate?
 
 
I have many many more questions if you are willing to listen and help a beginner become experienced. 

 

[the_lock_man]

Very good post Byron, for one i didn't even think about the substrate having good bacteria; I guess thats why I'm a beginner. 
 
My question is if I am changing out 20-50% a week How often or when should I vacuum the substrate?
 
 
I have many many more questions if you are willing to listen and help a beginner become experienced. 

 
Oh, he will be. He's a very helpful chap, is our Byron. 
 
My answer to that is to vaccuum the substrate as part of your weekly water change procedure.

 

[Byron]

I agree with vacuuming the substrate during the water change.  The presence of live plants in the substrate impact this, as does the fish load and feeding.  The more fish food entering the tank, the more organics will be deposited in the substrate.  I generally only do open areas which means along the front, but in some tanks I do not even do this.  Each aquarium is biologically different.
 
Thanks for the kind words.  I try to help, and most of us have gone down these roads ourselves; in my case it was back in the days when there were no forums like this one, and no one had computers anyway.

 
Byron.

 

[vwdank]

Thanks for help fellas, Yea i couldn't imagine finding the information to do this without Forums and the web, lots of reading I guess.

 

[Phillysailor]

I got a really helpful idea from

 by the "King of DIY". Basically, I put a drain standpipe (a 3ft length of PVC pipe) into my wall behind the tank setup which was connected by 1.5" PVC pipe to a shop sink on the other side of the wall. I then drilled the back of my tank to accept a 1" flexible hose (with a check valve) which just sticks down into the drain standpipe. 
 
I then tapped a 1/4" line off the cold water of the shop sink which runs to a three stage filter which prepares the water for the fish... basically the sort for an ice maker or drinking water filter. There is a tap for a spigot at the sink which lets me wash filter media and such without killing the helpful bacteria. Also off the supply for this spigot is a 1/4" line which runs through the wall, and to a valve above the tank, to allow fresh water into the tank when open.
 
So, my process for a water change is to turn on the tap. And then wait 3 minutes for every gallon I want to change. So regular 20-50% changes are possible while doing other tasks, just set a timer. 

I figure that I am MUCH more likely to do these changes without wrecking the living room or hating the process if it is this easy. So I spent the time up front, rather than weekly, or more likely less often afterwards. It may seem like a lot of work to setup, but I am very glad its plumbed this way because it makes taking care of the fish so much easier.