Preotein skimmers do not work well in FW due to the lower SG of the water (and the lack of the charged ions present in marine salts).
Hoewever, sumps are just as good in FW as SW and wet drys are still an amazing filtration method (I use sumps on any tank I can and am changing them all gradually over to wet dry).
Aeration via an air pump is NOT necessary. Air pumps and bubble walls cause minimal surface agitation, a powerhead or filter outlet/return pointed towards the surface will do far more for aeration (though if you use a wet dry and a sump you should have plenty of aeration).
Water changes should be frequent enough and often enough to keep nitrates in check. Some do 10% a week, some 25% a week. Others with sensitive fish (rays and such) do 25% twice a week. Some, with large filters and lower stocking do the water changes monthly or fortnightly.
If you have a source of RO water for the reef (in your house for example, rather than buying from a shop) you would be better off using that for water changes. You can get FW additives (just like SW) to put the essential minerals and trace elements put back in.
Some people swear by UVs, others don't like them. They perform the same pathogen and free floating organism blasting as they do in SW, though the effectiveness is still a matter of debate. I myself prefer them on larger tanks.
As with SW, a test kit is your friend.
On a 500 litre tank (around 110 imp gallons) I would say go for a 100 litre sump with a wet dry tower on it and you should have a really nice setup, though wet dry will make it very hard to grow plants.
If plants is your aim then a good external filter (such as an eheim) should do you well.