New to fresh water

[Conduit7]

Have had 125 saltwater set up with coral and anemone for a long time. Sold tank as we moved from Washington to Nevada. Downsized to a 36 gallon bowfront, leds, fluval 70, 150 fluval heater, dragon stone, manzanita wood. Low light plants for now. Don't want to have to purchase a co2 system, Not over stocking and want comunity fish that are on small size. Tank is cycling now any advise appreciated. Waiting on purchasing low light plants, don't know how long to wait until I purchase them. This is a whole new ballgame going from salt. Thank you for your time. Carol

 

[Toney]

Put the plants in now. They have beneficial bacteria on them that'll help cycle the tank.

 

[Byron]

I agree. But they also have another benefit, that of assimilating ammonia/ammonium when fish are present. Once you get the plants growing, and especially with floating plants present, you will be ready to add the first fish. No other "cycling" is required if you go slow with growing plants.

As for the fish, what are your source water parameters? This is something you would not have been worrying about as much with marine, as the GH and pH is generally universal. Freshwater is very different. Each species of freshwater fish has evolved over thousands of years to function in quite a specific environment, which includes the aquascaping we provide to ensure the natural elements are present, water parameters, numbers when a shoaling species (live in groups), and other species included.

Taking just the parameters for now, you want to know the GH (general or total hardness) and pH of your source water; knowing the KH (carbonate hardness or Alkalinity) is useful, as this can buffer the pH. You should be able to track these down from your municipal water authority, in the US probably on their website. Some species have very specialized requirements, some are more adaptable, but adaptability has limits. Once we know the parameters, we can offer suggestions for suitable species. Along with the number, include the unit of measurement they use, as there are several.

You doo not need a CO2 system, if you stay with natural or low-tech plants. Light is important though, both intensity and then spectrum. If you have a lighting fixture, providing the data will help. The lighting needed for marine tanks does not provide good light over freshwater planted tanks.

And, welcome to TFF.

Byron.

 

[Conduit7]

Put the plants in now. They have beneficial bacteria on them that'll help cycle the tank.

Put the plants in now. They have beneficial bacteria on them that'll help cycle the tank.

thank you Toney will start with some low light plants

 

[Conduit7]

I agree. But they also have another benefit, that of assimilating ammonia/ammonium when fish are present. Once you get the plants growing, and especially with floating plants present, you will be ready to add the first fish. No other "cycling" is required if you go slow with growing plants.

As for the fish, what are your source water parameters? This is something you would not have been worrying about as much with marine, as the GH and pH is generally universal. Freshwater is very different. Each species of freshwater fish has evolved over thousands of years to function in quite a specific environment, which includes the aquascaping we provide to ensure the natural elements are present, water parameters, numbers when a shoaling species (live in groups), and other species included.

Taking just the parameters for now, you want to know the GH (general or total hardness) and pH of your source water; knowing the KH (carbonate hardness or Alkalinity) is useful, as this can buffer the pH. You should be able to track these down from your municipal water authority, in the US probably on their website. Some species have very specialized requirements, some are more adaptable, but adaptability has limits. Once we know the parameters, we can offer suggestions for suitable species. Along with the number, include the unit of measurement they use, as there are several.

You doo not need a CO2 system, if you stay with natural or low-tech plants. Light is important though, both intensity and then spectrum. If you have a lighting fixture, providing the data will help. The lighting needed for marine tanks does not provide good light over freshwater planted tanks.

And, welcome to TFF.

Byron.

Thank you for your input very helpful

 

[NickAu]

Annubias, Crypts, Vals. Blue Stricta, Water sprite as a floating plant, all work well in lower light tanks.

 

[joannethomas6]

As far as amount of fish goes, it's 1 inch of fish per 12 square inch of surface water. I'm no expert but I'd imagine tropical to be easier to set up than marine. I have a 4ft tank at 160 litre, I find easy starter fish (community fish) are guppies, tetras, molly's, plates, snails & shrimp. I also have a rainbow shark that that gets on well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Essjay]

'Rules' such as 1 inch of fish per 12 square inches of surface, or 1 inch of fish per American gallon are not reliable. For someone who has not kept fresh water fish before, I would ask the advice of the members on here for stocking levels.

As Byron mentioned earlier, we need to know how hard your water is before suggesting fish - mollies, guppies and platies are hard water fish while the majority of tetras need soft water.

 

[Conduit7]

Stats. Ammonia-0. Nitrate-0. Nitrite-0. Chlorine-0. GH-150. Chlorine-0. KH-140. PH-7.8. Stock aquaeon light for 36 gallon bow front. Cycled with 3 black mollies, no chemicals, frequent water changes. Just placed in 2 kullie loaches going slow. Temp 79 Live in Las Vegas very hard water top off with r/o water. All fish seem fine.