New tank set up recommendation

Chloe07

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Hello, I'm receiving my new 10 gallon tank for my betta tomorrow. I'm very excited.
Currently my betta is in 5 gallon tank. I do water testing almost everyday with API freshwater master kit.
Ammonia 0ppm, Nitrite 0ppm, Nitrate 20ppm
I do partial water change about 3 times a week. I got rid of the fluval stratum causing ammonia spike, so I did 50% water change even with slight ammonia in the tank. My nitrate has been very stable.
I have caribsea sand ready. I have one sponge filter and HOB filter running. and some live plants.
This is my first time transferring to a bigger tank so I want to be extra careful on what I'm doing.
I have manzanita driftwood boiled for several hours and it has been dried under the sun over the window for several weeks, it is not soaked. Should still soak it before putting in the tank?
After putting the sand, I'm going to move the HOB filter to the new tank and let it run.
How many days do you recommend to run the tank before adding my betta? should I also transfer some tank water?
I would appreciate any advise on transferring the fish, thank you
 
If you are simply transferring a fish from one tank to another, set the new tank up with gravel and ornaments.
Fill the new tank with water from the existing tank and then move the fish into the new tank.
Move the old established filter to the new tank.
Top up the new tank with dechlorinated water.
Turn the filter and heater on.

There shouldn't be any issues with ammonia or nitrite because the old established filter is going into the new tank. The whole process is equivalent to doing a big water change.

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CarribSea sand is usually calcium based and will raise the pH. Check the packaging and maybe test some sand in a container of tap water.

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You don't need to test for ammonia, nitrite or nitrate every day if the tank is established. Testing an established tank once a week is sufficient. If the water goes cloudy or the fish get sick, then test it too.

The only tanks that should be tested every day, are tanks that are cycling with fish in. Then you monitor ammonia and nitrite levels and do water changes to keep those levels low.

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Rinse the driftwood before putting it in the tank to get rid of any dust that might be on it.

Letting the wood dry out will probably cause it to float for a bit until it becomes waterlogged.
 
If you are simply transferring a fish from one tank to another, set the new tank up with gravel and ornaments.
Fill the new tank with water from the existing tank and then move the fish into the new tank.
Move the old established filter to the new tank.
Top up the new tank with dechlorinated water.
Turn the filter and heater on.

There shouldn't be any issues with ammonia or nitrite because the old established filter is going into the new tank. The whole process is equivalent to doing a big water change.

-------------------------
CarribSea sand is usually calcium based and will raise the pH. Check the packaging and maybe test some sand in a container of tap water.

-------------------------
You don't need to test for ammonia, nitrite or nitrate every day if the tank is established. Testing an established tank once a week is sufficient. If the water goes cloudy or the fish get sick, then test it too.

The only tanks that should be tested every day, are tanks that are cycling with fish in. Then you monitor ammonia and nitrite levels and do water changes to keep those levels low.

-------------------------
Rinse the driftwood before putting it in the tank to get rid of any dust that might be on it.

Letting the wood dry out will probably cause it to float for a bit until it becomes waterlogged.
Hello Colin, thank you for your answer
in the sand it says for freshwater and ph neutral but I will definitely test it for ph change, thank you!
 
the sand should be fine if it states for freshwater and pH neutral.
yes but I test everything that goes into the tank anyways. I want to make sure since I had so much problem in the past with the ph :) thank you for your concern.
 
I have just upgraded a tank 2 days ago and did exactly as colin mentioned without issues.

The whole process took me about 3 hours from start to finish... yours should take much less time with a smaller tank.

Take down old tank, put fish in bucket with sponge filter, some tank water to use and decor in another, and filter media in the 3rd bucket. Keep decor and media submerged in tank water while you switch tanks.

Start setting up new tank with new substrate, put in decor and some old tank water, begin filling with dechlorinated water, get filters and heaters ready and plug it all in. Aclimate fish as you normally would.

I would not worry about the sand and ph. Even if ph changes, it'll change over time. With routine water changes, it'll be a nice slow change.

If you really want to let it run a bit, do a couple of days to give you comfort. You can take your time with the switch, and monitor water parameters and temperature.This is definitely the beauty of having multiple filters.
 
I have just upgraded a tank 2 days ago and did exactly as colin mentioned without issues.

The whole process took me about 3 hours from start to finish... yours should take much less time with a smaller tank.

Take down old tank, put fish in bucket with sponge filter, some tank water to use and decor in another, and filter media in the 3rd bucket. Keep decor and media submerged in tank water while you switch tanks.

Start setting up new tank with new substrate, put in decor and some old tank water, begin filling with dechlorinated water, get filters and heaters ready and plug it all in. Aclimate fish as you normally would.

I would not worry about the sand and ph. Even if ph changes, it'll change over time. With routine water changes, it'll be a nice slow change.

If you really want to let it run a bit, do a couple of days to give you comfort. You can take your time with the switch, and monitor water parameters and temperature.This is definitely the beauty of having multiple filters.
Hello, thank you for sharing your experience and information. I just opened the new tank and I like it. I will follow the steps patiently, thank you!
 
I just found these tiny worms all over the old tank. Is this detritus worm?
Its very tiny but visible. I thought it was dust but they certainly move!
My old tank has been bare bottom for few months. I do frequent water change and remove any uneaten food with turkey baster . But I dont know how they got here, maybe from moss ball I bought several weeks ago. There are so many all overt the tank.
How do I get rid of them? Its there a natural way beside medicine? Would oto catfish or snail eat them?
 
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your second picture doesn't work.

it looks a bit like planaria and is nothing to worry about unless you plan on breeding fish.
 
your second picture doesn't work.

it looks a bit like planaria and is nothing to worry about unless you plan on breeding fish.
Can planaria be this small? Its like 1-2mm. I thought it was dust. I re attached the second picture. Its mini sponge filter so the worm is super tiny.
 
Could be baby hydra. Do they have tentacles?
If they do have tentacles, they are hydra.
 
Could be baby hydra. Do they have tentacles?
If they do have tentacles, they are hydra.
Could be baby hydra. Do they have tentacles?
If they do have tentacles, they are hydra.

They are so small I can't see the head or tentacles even with zoomed in camera.
Please take a look of gif file, the worm is moving on the right side. That is the base of mini sponge filter, I attached the second picture to compare the size, so the worm is visible with naked eyes, white worm moving, but is almost impossible to see any other detail of it.
 
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please click on the name of the file --> worm.gif
 
I can't identify anything on the images.
most worms that are crawling around the aquarium are harmless to adult fish.
 
I can't identify anything on the images.
most worms that are crawling around the aquarium are harmless to adult fish.
Ok I will continue with tank set up then.
Thank you Colin I appreciate your help:)
 

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