New symptoms poorly molly:(

[Elena82x]

I am not going to guess as to the spots; my experience with "disease" is extremely limited (fortunately) and others are better able to assess. But the parameters play into any "problem" because each species of freshwater fish has evolved to function in what really is a very specific environment, which obviously includes water parameters. Individual fish can respond differently to adverse conditions. Mollies must have a GH of 12 dH or higher, and a basic pH in the high 7's or higher. When this is lacking, they struggle tocarry out basic functions, and usually wear themselves out. The stress from this causes other issues that normally they would be able to handle.

Flashing can occur from parameter issues, from parasites, from ammonia/nitrite/nitrate issues...and clamped fins, lethargy, resting on the substrate the same. Before we even consider adding some sort of medication, fixing the obvious problems like the parameters is best.

Ok thank you. I can see the logic in that.
The spots are just the algae on the glass. The fin is the only visible issue.
I am just so keen to fix it. I’ll make it a priority to find the parameters.
Thanks for taking the time to help.

 

[Essjay]

@Elena82x Can you tell us the name of your water company, please. I'll have a look to see if they do give numbers and how to find them.

 

[Elena82x]

Thank you, I’ve

@Elena82x Can you tell us the name of your water company, please. I'll have a look to see if they do give numbers and how to find them.

found this, does this tell me what I need? It’s united utilities

 

[Essjay]

The image tells me exactly how hard your water is

Hardness Clarke 10.36.

There are half a dozen different units of measurement for hardness, it's worse than litres, Imperial gallons and US gallons for volume. But there is a calculator on here which will convert degrees Clarke into the two units used in fish keeping, dH and ppm.

Your hardness is 8.3 dH and 148 ppm. That's right at the top end of soft for fish.



As Byron said, mollies need a hardness over 12 dH. Some individuals will be affected before others.

 

[Elena82x]

The image tells me exactly how hard your water is

Hardness Clarke 10.36.

There are half a dozen different units of measurement for hardness, it's worse than litres, Imperial gallons and US gallons for volume. But there is a calculator on here which will convert degrees Clarke into the two units used in fish keeping, dH and ppm.

Your hardness is 8.3 dH and 148 ppm. That's right at the top end of soft for fish.



As Byron said, mollies need a hardness over 12 dH. Some individuals will be affected before others.

Eek right thank you. Honestly thank you - I have learnt so much from this forum. I hate that I am still learning and it’s affecting the fish
So I need to look into adding minerals to the water from what I can see via Google. @Byron is there a better way to go about that or anything to avoid? I also have albino cories who I believe prefer it soft so I’ll need to aim for a balance I guess..

 

[Rocky998]

I hate that I am still learning and it’s affecting the fish

Hey, listen, we all learn new things every day. Even the "experts" on here will learn new things...
The important thing is that you are correcting what you're doing and trying your hardest to do so.
There are many people who just buy a fish and a tank, fill it with water, and cross their fingers. But you are trying harder than most.
Yes, its sad the fish are being affected, but you'll get there eventually.
Someone told me when I first joined this forum q while back and was learning: "Soon you'll be teaching others different things like we are". So I'd like to pass that quote to you now. Soon you'll be teaching newbies about these same things so they don't make a lot of mistakes.

 

[Elena82x]

Hey, listen, we all learn new things every day. Even the "experts" on here will learn new things...
The important thing is that you are correcting what you're doing and trying your hardest to do so.
There are many people who just buy a fish and a tank, fill it with water, and cross their fingers. But you are trying harder than most.
Yes, its sad the fish are being affected, but you'll get there eventually.
Someone told me when I first joined this forum q while back and was learning: "Soon you'll be teaching others different things like we are". So I'd like to pass that quote to you now. Soon you'll be teaching newbies about these same things so they don't make a lot of mistakes.

Thank you I appreciate that

 

[Byron]

Your current fish stocking I understand is 3 guppies, 4 mollies, 13 "bottom feeders" and fry which I assume to be either molly or guppy. Albino cories are mentioned in a later post, are these the 13 bottom feeders?

While waiting for confirmation...you will read many members here recommending that you select fish suited to your water parameters. There is a lot of logic behind this. For one thing, weekly water changes would mean preparing the water outside the aquarium, in some suitable container/tank, so when added the parameters are basically the same as the tank. This is extra work, maybe that is OK, but remember we all have emergency water changes at one time or another, and this too becomes more work. It can also get expensive.

The cories are soft water fish, though more tolerating of the water you have (8 dH) but it would really not be fair to force them into hard water. When you have a har water fish as uncompromising as mollies are, it really is a challenge. The guppies would manage better in 8 dH, so if you could re-home the mollies, you could proceed with your tap water. And there are lots of colourful fish, though admittedly not pure black, that would work here.

 

[Elena82x]

Your current fish stocking I understand is 3 guppies, 4 mollies, 13 "bottom feeders" and fry which I assume to be either molly or guppy. Albino cories are mentioned in a later post, are these the 13 bottom feeders?

While waiting for confirmation...you will read many members here recommending that you select fish suited to your water parameters. There is a lot of logic behind this. For one thing, weekly water changes would mean preparing the water outside the aquarium, in some suitable container/tank, so when added the parameters are basically the same as the tank. This is extra work, maybe that is OK, but remember we all have emergency water changes at one time or another, and this too becomes more work. It can also get expensive.

The cories are soft water fish, though more tolerating of the water you have (8 dH) but it would really not be fair to force them into hard water. When you have a har water fish as uncompromising as mollies are, it really is a challenge. The guppies would manage better in 8 dH, so if you could re-home the mollies, you could proceed with your tap water. And there are lots of colourful fish, though admittedly not pure black, that would work here.

Thank you for all this.. a lot to digest and think about then. It is frustrating that the LFS recommended this combination to me, but then they are also the people who told me to put fish into my new tank after 48 hours (they all unsurprisingly died and were my young children’s first ever family pets!). I guess they just assume that problematic aquariums will mean more sales for them but it is unethical! Off on a tangent there but it is wrong that sound, free advice is available on here and yet they’re earning living from giving damaging information.
Anyhow, as I said I will digest the info and think through the options.
Thanks for taking the time to help.

 

[speakerman3]

Have you tried adding a little bit of rock salt (or any non-iodized pure salt) to the tank? You could start with 1/2 tablespoon per ten gallons and go up to two tablespoons per ten gallons, keeping a close eye on how your fish respond.

It looks like your molly has fin rot. This is caused by bacteria but usually doesn't affect fish unless there is another stressor. Considering the health of your other fish, you are probably reluctant to treat with erythromycin or maracyn 2, but salt can help if it is early enough.

 

[speakerman3]

Have you tried adding a little bit of rock salt (or any non-iodized pure salt) to the tank? You could start with 1/2 tablespoon per ten gallons and go up to two tablespoons per ten gallons, keeping a close eye on how your fish respond.

It looks like your molly has fin rot. This is caused by bacteria but usually doesn't affect fish unless there is another stressor. Considering the health of your other fish, you are probably reluctant to treat with erythromycin or maracyn 2, but salt can help if it is early enough.

Okay. I had a different thread in mind and just went back and double checked what you had written earlier. You were worried about your Cories not liking the salt. When you added it previously were the Cories acting differently? I don't think that cories are as sensitive to salt as their reputation might have you believe. In fact, there was an experiment to test that and the cories with 1 part per thousand salt in their water fared better than any other group.

 

[Essjay]

Unfortunately Elena is in the UK and antibiotics are only available on vet's prescription, if you can find a vet willing to give one for fish.

Salt can be used to treat minor infections but only for a limited period as you have soft water fish. Post #2 in this thread gives instructions on how to use salt.

What to do if your fish gets sick

If your fish ever looks sick or unwell, then the following steps might help. Test the Water and Clean the Tank. Test the water quality for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH and write the results down in numbers. Check it for general hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness (KH) too if you can, but...

www.fishforums.net

 

[speakerman3]

If antibiotics are unavailable, do you have access to Melafix or King British Fin Rot & Fungus Control? I have used Melafix in the past, but haven't had fin rot in a tank for decades. The King British medication isn't one I'm familiar with, but I imagine it's available in the U.K.

If you are going to treat with something other than salt, be sure to remove any carbon from your filter. Go easy on feeding, also, to avoid an ammonia spike when your filter won't be as effective.

 

[Elena82x]

If antibiotics are unavailable, do you have access to Melafix or King British Fin Rot & Fungus Control? I have used Melafix in the past, but haven't had fin rot in a tank for decades. The King British medication isn't one I'm familiar with, but I imagine it's available in the U.K.

If you are going to treat with something other than salt, be sure to remove any carbon from your filter. Go easy on feeding, also, to avoid an ammonia spike when your filter won't be as effective.

Thank you for all the suggestions. Yes those are available so I will look them up online now. I appreciate you taking the time to help.
I need to look into the right mix for the water hardness too. It’s not easy - this particular fish is called Buster and belongs to my 4 year old

 

[speakerman3]

Thank you for all the suggestions. Yes those are available so I will look them up online now. I appreciate you taking the time to help.
I need to look into the right mix for the water hardness too. It’s not easy - this particular fish is called Buster and belongs to my 4 year old

Does Buster listen to ska?