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New plants 'melting'?

Okay thanks - pH is about 8-8.4, had no idea about that meaning that any ammonia is harming the fish. Can work with 75% daily water changes if needed, I have sand substrate though, can do my best with gravel vac if necessary but I'm pretty hopeless with it.

Will check tap water for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate and report back. What do you mean by a prefilter?

Thanks for the help!
 
With a pH of 8.0 to 8.4, even the tiniest trace of ammonia will be extremely toxic. The higher the pH the more toxic it becomes.

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If you have a gravel cleaner you can kink the hose a bit when using them on sand and it stops the sand being sucked out. The gravel cleaning is more to remove uneaten food & waste, and you should be able to just move the gravel cleaner across the top of the sand to suck up any food or fish waste.

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To prefilter the water you get a holding container (plastic storage crate or big bucket) and fill it with tap water. Add dechlorinator and aerate for a bit. Then run a filter in/ on the container and have something that absorbs nitrates in the filter. You allow the filter to run until the nitrates have been absorb by the nitrate absorbing media, and then use the new water (with no nitrates) to do water changes.

There are a couple of threads relating to nitrates in tap water, (see following links). They might be of interest to you.
http://www.fishforums.net/threads/water-change-volume-vs-frequency.448691/#post-3793417

http://www.fishforums.net/threads/pozzani-filter-update-and-more-qs.448815/
 
Wow that's really interesting, thanks for the info! Feeling awful about possibly unwittingly harming my fish - but also wondering if this is for sure the cause of the HR's deaths or not - as they'd lived for months in their previous home in what would have been near enough the same water conditions (very nearby), and I know for a fact it wasn't cleaned out as thoroughly/often as with myself. Plus there used to be a lot more fish in there, majorly overstocked, which can only have contributed to any ammonia/nitrate/nitrite - possibly why so many died in their previous home. However no HRs had died up until I got them, there were six from the start and they've only started dropping off since I got them.

Regardless of whether it's the cause of the deaths or not, I'll definitely be taking more precautions since finding out that high pH makes any ammonia really harmful to fish. Like I said I had no idea, I know ammonia and the like isn't good obviously but has no idea the pH had such a drastic effect. Is there any simply-explained reason for this?

And cheers for the info about pre-filtering - may have more questions if I need to do this but thanks for the links! Will test plain tap water today :)
 
Ask Byron for an explanation of ammonia vs ammonium in aquariums. I hate chemistry. It's to do with the ammonia gaining or losing 1 hydrogen atom and changing form.

The main thing you need to know is in acid water (pH below 7.0), ammonia is not a major issue to fish. However, when the pH goes above 7.0, it becomes very toxic to fish and other aquatic organisms. And the higher the pH the more toxic it becomes. Every point above 7.0 basically doubles the toxicity of the ammonia.

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If the other tank had a well established filter, it would not have had any ammonia in the water. And if there was a lot of waste in the tank and high nitrates, the pH was probably lower to due to acids coming from things breaking down in the water. When you moved the fish to your place the filter bacteria possibly died and you started getting an ammonia reading, which poisoned the fish in the alkaline water.
 
Back to the plants. Remember that any changes you make to your lighting or fertilisation regime will take 3 to 4 weeks to see any difference. Shop don't be too quick to keep changing stuff without giving it a chance to work.
 
I've only one thing to add to what has been suggested so far, and that is on the nitrate. As Colin suggested, test your tap water alone for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. You need to know if any of these showing up in the aquarium are coming in with fresh water or just occurring from the chemistry within the aquarium.

On the ammonia/ammonium issue, I wouldn't worry about the chemistry, Colin has explained it sufficient for our purposes.
 
Thanks all!

If the other tank had a well established filter, it would not have had any ammonia in the water. And if there was a lot of waste in the tank and high nitrates, the pH was probably lower to due to acids coming from things breaking down in the water. When you moved the fish to your place the filter bacteria possibly died and you started getting an ammonia reading, which poisoned the fish in the alkaline water.

I got the entire setup and fish together, including pump and everything, so can't be an issue there. Only difference being I'm likely cleaning out the pump/filter media more often - once a week. Is this too much?

Back to the plants. Remember that any changes you make to your lighting or fertilisation regime will take 3 to 4 weeks to see any difference. Shop don't be too quick to keep changing stuff without giving it a chance to work.

I've only dosed the fertilizer once so far, last week, but already seen a noticeable improvement in plants - however this could be due to the removal of a load of aquatic caterpillars!

I've only one thing to add to what has been suggested so far, and that is on the nitrate. As Colin suggested, test your tap water alone for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. You need to know if any of these showing up in the aquarium are coming in with fresh water or just occurring from the chemistry within the aquarium.

On the ammonia/ammonium issue, I wouldn't worry about the chemistry, Colin has explained it sufficient for our purposes.

Done the tap water test now, the results are as follows:
NO3: 25-50ppm
NO2 - 0ppm
GH: 8d
KH: more than 20d? The colours on the indicator range from green to dark blue and the strip went purple?
pH: 7.6-8 (interestingly, lower than my tank pH of 8-8.6?)
Cl2: 0.8ppm
Ammonia: 0ppm

So what does this mean? Do I need to prefilter?

Would be interested to hear about the ammonia vs ammonium thing, although as we both know it's probably a bit advanced for me! But interested to try and learn, if you don't mind trying to explain chemistry to a brick wall :D

Please and thanks again everyone!
 

Here's a video I took earlier of one of the two remaining HRs showing possible signs of distress which I'm wondering if could be a clue? The HR featured in the majority of this video appears to be gasping and struggling more compared to the other who looks okay as far as I'm aware. Any insight? Sorry for the blurry bits of video, was having trouble focusing! Thanks!
 
Would be interested to hear about the ammonia vs ammonium thing, although as we both know it's probably a bit advanced for me! But interested to try and learn, if you don't mind trying to explain chemistry to a brick wall

I am not a chemist, but I may be able to partially explain this, using some research I did for an article a few years back.

pH stands for pondus hydrogeni, Latin for “potential of hydrogen.” Water is H2O, meaning two atoms of hydrogen and one of oxygen. Water actually "exists" as free positively-charged hydrogen ions and negatively-charged hydroxyl ions in varying proportions, and pH is the measurement of the ratio of hydrogen and hydroxyl ions in a body of water. Acidic water contains more hydrogen ions, and basic (alkaline) water more hydroxyl ions; neutral water has an equal proportion. The pH is closely linked with the level of carbon dioxide (CO2) because CO2 produces carbonic acid. The hardness also impacts pH, since the carbonates bind to acids as they appear; this buffering will prevent or limit changes in pH. The higher (greater) the KH (carbonate hardness or Alkalinity), the more "buffering" effect it has on pH.

The pH is measured with a scale from 1 to 14 with 7 being neutral. Numbers below 7 indicate acidic water, increasingly more acidic as they lower, while numbers above 7 indicate basic or alkaline water, increasingly as the numbers rise. This scale is logarithmic, meaning that each unit is a ten-fold increase/decrease; so a pH of 5 is ten times more acidic than a pH of 6, and 100 times more acidic than a pH of 7, and a thousand times more acidic than a pH of 8. Fish must never be exposed to sudden pH changes approaching one unit, as this is very stressful and may kill some species.

Nitrogen comprises about 80% of our atmosphere, and every life form on earth works hard to acquire it. In the aquarium, nitrogen exists in four/five forms: ammonia [NH3], ammonium [NH4], nitrite [NO2] and nitrate [NO3]. De-nitrification involves the fifth form, nitrogen gas.

Ammonia is a by-product of all aerobic metabolisms—fish, snails, invertebrates, fungi and bacteria; it naturally occurs from continuous biological processes and living organisms in any aquarium, and even at very low levels this ammonia is very highly toxic to all life. At levels between 0.5 and 1 ppm there can be long-term or permanent gill damage. Ammonia is never healthy at levels that can be detected by our standard test kits, and in most cases will have negative effects on the fish. Ammonia is produced by fish respiration; it is not present in urine, unlike mammals. It also occurs with decomposition of organics.

Ammonia dissolved in water rapidly associates to produce ammonium ions (NH4-) and hudroxyl ions (OH-). As the pH rises and temperature increases, so progressively more free ammonia is formed as these ions dissociate into ammonia and water(NH3 and H2O). Thus, ammonia levels become far more critical the higher the pH, and temperature has a similar effect. At pH 8.0, only 5% of the ammonia is free, while 20% is free at pH 9.0.

Ammonia is highly toxic to fish. In acidic water (pH below 7.0) ammonia automatically ionizes into ammonium which is basically harmless. This does not occur as much in basic water (pH above 7).
 
Done the tap water test now, the results are as follows:
NO3: 25-50ppm
NO2 - 0ppm
GH: 8d
KH: more than 20d? The colours on the indicator range from green to dark blue and the strip went purple?
pH: 7.6-8 (interestingly, lower than my tank pH of 8-8.6?)
Cl2: 0.8ppm
Ammonia: 0ppm

The pH change could be due to dissolved CO2 in the water. If you let a glass of tap water sit 24 hours, the CO2 will out-gas and the test for pH should then be more accurate. If this is around 8, that would explain the change. Tap water must always be out-gassed before testing pH; aquarium water does not need this.

The nitrate is high for fish. I will leave it for our members who have this issue and have resolved it. I know Abbeysdad has, so you could PM him if he does not see this thread and post. [And I just noted that Colin referenced this in post #17.] But 20 ppm is the highest you want nitrate, and even lower than that is preferable. All fish have issues with nitrate, but the level and the exposure as well as the species all factor in; while some fish will be killed earlier than others at the same level, all are negatively affected the longer the exposure or the higher the level.
 
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Filters should be cleaned every 2 - 4 weeks. If the filter is new, or has recently been moved (as in your case), do not clean the filter for 6 weeks. This allows the filter bacteria time to settle onto the filter materials and establish. Once they are established you can clean them every 2 - 4 weeks.
Make sure you wash filter materials in a bucket of tank water.

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The video shows quite a bit of water movement, which might be a bit much for the harlequins. Perhaps move the airstones to one corner so there is good current in the corner and across the top but less current in other areas for the rasboras to rest. Alternatively have the air pump on a timer and let it come on for a few hours then go off for a few hours.

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Your tap water is hard and alkaline and has nitrates. Any ammonia in this water is going to upset the fish, and the nitrates will also be an issue. You should look into removing the nitrates before using the water in the tank. The Pozzani filter is one option, you can also put the water into a large plastic storage crate and have floating plants like Duckweed or Water Sprite growing in the container. Wait a week and the plants should have used all the nitrates and then use the new nitrate free water for water changes.

Another issue is to do with harlequin rasboras. They naturally come from soft acid water and the hard alkaline water won't be helping them. If the harlequins die then I would not get any more. Look for fish that naturally come from alkaline water rather than keeping fishes that come from acid water. Livebearers, most captive bred barbs, danios and rainbowfish will all be fine in your water. Avoid wild caught fish that occur in soft acid water. :)
 
Thanks so much for the help! Cheers for the detailed explanation Byron - you did a good job of explaining that to me considering our gap in knowledge level, pleased to say I actually think I understand most of that!

No I won't be getting any more - they came with the tank as well as a number of others that really aren't ideal for the setup. When it comes to stocking it myself, I'll definitely be looking into fish that are naturally in the same sort of hardness/pH that I'm working with!

Nitrates in the water - the large storage bin sitting around is probably not an option for me as my mum already isn't too happy about the way my fish stuff seems to have a way of spreading - what is this pozzani filter? Found this on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004JJFGNO/?tag=

Is this the right thing and if so what do I do with it? Says it's for a fridge freezer so would I still be able to freely use it in a bucket of water?

I'm going to take the next step in cleaning today - I lost another Rasbora last night and watched it go. It got really weak and was swimming sort of upright, and got stuck against the filter until I nudged it off. In this process I stirred up a dead body from a day or two before which I couldn't find and thought had decomposed. Obviously I unfortunately can't pre-filter the water yet but I figure there's likely less nitrates in the tap water than the tank at the moment (will test water before and after changing).

So I'm going to do a ~75% water change and remove all fish apart from bristlenose. Whilst I'm doing this I will move the second bubbler over into the corner on the right so there's not so much water disturbance throughout the tank. Going to get my gravel vac on the sand and jostle rocks around to try and get any harmful residue/remaining decaying fish matter out of the tank. I'll make sure to avoid cleaning the filter for about six weeks from now.

Hoping this will make some difference at least, and please let me know more about pre-filtering and possibly this Pozzani filter, as will start pre-filtering ASAP!

Thanks again!
 
Don't move the fish out when cleaning the tank. Just leave them in the tank while you gravel clean and drain water out. The stress associated with chasing them around could cause them to all die if there is ammonia in the water.

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Post #17, the second post on page 2 of this thread, has 2 links to other threads using the Pozzani filter to remove nitrates from tap water. If you post on there, Seangee should be able to give you more info on the filter.
 
Okay thank you, will look on that thread! I'm just thinking that moving rocks around and trying to gravel clean I'll be more likely to hurt them or stress them out than if I just move them as quickly as possible into a separate safe space? Also worried about the gravel cleaner sucking them up (I know they could only go up to a certain point in the tube but could stress or hurt them?) - I've fashioned a sort of grid with elastic bands over the end but have no idea if it would be effective...
 
Okay thank you, will look on that thread! I'm just thinking that moving rocks around and trying to gravel clean I'll be more likely to hurt them or stress them out than if I just move them as quickly as possible into a separate safe space? Also worried about the gravel cleaner sucking them up (I know they could only go up to a certain point in the tube but could stress or hurt them?) - I've fashioned a sort of grid with elastic bands over the end but have no idea if it would be effective...

The siphon on the W/C unit should not be sucking up fish. I know that some fish are especially curious, but gently waving the unit if they get too close should do the trick; I have to be careful with this in one tank with Ember Tetras that are very intrigued by the bits of "food" rising up the tube, and I also keep a sharp looklout in the 10g with the pygmy cory fry, some of which are no larger than a hair.

Normally, substrate cleaning should not involve moving wood or rock, or plants. Clean the open areas, if that is needed. You can dig down into the substrate when it is gravel, should this be necessary. All this "needed" and "necessary" means that once a tank is established and balanced, water changes do not normally need to be anything beyond changing a good proportion of the water, at least 50% of the tank volume, though I tend to do more like 60-70% once every week. I rarely touch the substrate as this is where the organics accumulate and many types of bacteria break them down (the small snails greatly assist in this) providing nutrients for plants and also denitrification. If you do too much or too thorough a cleaning of the substrate, this is hampered.

Now, here we have a nitrate issue, so one might think this extra cleaning of the substrate is beneficial, and indeed it is. But the nitrates in the source water are very high and should be dealt with, which would alleviate the worry over nitrate within the aquarium. Keeping the filter well cleaned is another good idea, especially when nitrates or organics are an issue; I rinse my sponge filters under the tap every water change, and the two internal filters are similarly cleaned every W/C. Only the canister on the 90g is left for every 2-3 months.
 

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