New filter recommendations

[Biglog]

Looks like it’s time for a new filter as my penguin 200 is making a bunch of noise and not moving enough water to turn the wheel even after taking it all apart and cleaning everything. I still have some filter cartridges for it so am leaning towards just getting another of the same one. I have a 29 gallon tank that is pretty heavily stocked so any filter recommendations for this setup would be appreciated.

Forgot to add it’s a planted tank so would this be a good time to switch to something without activated carbon?

 

[Byron]

Yes in answer to the carbon question. But thee filter in most tanks is the source of the water movement, and not all fish have the same requirement when it comes to the water current. It would thus be helpful to know the fish that live in this 29g, so the filter can be suited. The water flow is the crucial issue for fish, and as this is planted the biological aspect is frankly irrelevant provided the tank is not overstocked--or inappropriately stocked.

 

[Biglog]

It has mollies, roseline sharks, cories, and a dwarf gourami. I seen a lot of good stuff about the fluval c4 so was looking at that if I stay with HOB. Have kind of been looking at canister filters which I know are overkill for this tank but am trying to future proof the inevitable bigger tank

 

[Byron]

Well...the gourami likes quiet waters, no current. The mollies and cories can do with some current, so long as it is not excessive. The roseline sharks, which is the species Sahyadria denisonii, inhabits fast-flowing rivers (other common names are Denison Barb, Red Line Torpedo Barb). You cannot provide all these differences in one tank especially this small a tank. But the latter species is a real problem waiting to happen.

S. denisonii attains six inches/15 cm, and it must be kept in a group of eight minimum. Frequent reports of increasing aggression are due to the numbder and small tanks. Obviously a 29g tank is not going to work here. The fish needs a 6-foot or 8-foot tank at maturity. If this is not in the cards, re-homing the fish now before things get difficult is in the best interest of the fish. More data here:

Sahyadria denisonii – Red-line Torpedo Barb (Barbus denisonii, Puntius denisonii) — Seriously Fish

www.seriouslyfish.com

There might be an issue with parameters too. The mollies must have moderately hard or harder water (GH no less than 12 dH, higher doesn't matter how high). The cories are soft water, and the barb soft to moderately hard.

 

[Biglog]

My GH is 30 ppm, KH 40 ppm pH 7 and 0 for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. I have been doing more frequent and larger water changes the past couple of days due to the inefficiency of the filter. I ordered a Fluval C4 because it was on sale for $50 on Amazon and seems to be a good filter. What media do you recommend I put in the chemical basket for the carbon in a pretty heavily populated tank with heavy vegetation?

 

[Byron]

My GH is 30 ppm, KH 40 ppm pH 7 and 0 for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. I have been doing more frequent and larger water changes the past couple of days due to the inefficiency of the filter. I ordered a Fluval C4 because it was on sale for $50 on Amazon and seems to be a good filter. What media do you recommend I put in the chemical basket for the carbon in a pretty heavily populated tank with heavy vegetation?

Most members will suggest/recommend using foam/sponge in filters when live plants are present. All you need in the way of artificial filtration is mechanical. The plants deal with the biological, assuming you have sufficient and at least some are fast growers (floating are best for this), as they take up ammonia/ammonium rapidly. However, it is possible to overload the system, and not knowing the numbers I can't say much, but if the fish exceed the plants' capability then the tank must be really overstocked. Water changes obviously will help, but having a fish stocking that suits the tank volume is the only way to go. With live plants, a tank should not even need a filter, that is the concept, though I would have one even if just mechanical.

The GH of 30ppm is much too soft for livebearers, and particularly mollies. There is no way around this, they are going to struggle and slowly die. It can take weeks, or a few months, but they are being seriously weakened in soft water.

 

[Biglog]

Would purigen work for the final water polishing filtration?

 

[Byron]

Would purigen work for the final water polishing filtration?

No, not with live plants. "Highest Organic removal capacity," not sure what this really means, but plants need these nutrients. "Helps control ammonia, nitrite, nitrate" bothers me--how, exactly? If the plants are taking up all the ammonia/ammonium, why is some sort of chemical concoction necessary? This hobby unfortunately is bombarded with products most of which have no [purpose, or value, or can be plainly detrimental. Save your money.

 

[Biglog]

I'm working on moving the mollies and rose lines. How would I go about raising the GH and KH?

 

[Biglog]

 

[Byron]

I'm working on moving the mollies and rose lines. How would I go about raising the GH and KH?

I did this back in the 1980's, and then I used a dolomite substrate. This slowly dissolves, keeping the GH/KH/pH stable. The pH was in the high 7's, but I don't know the GH/KH. There are also mineral salts intended for rift lake cichlids. However, you need to prepare the water outside the aquarium at every water change. I would get a calcareous substrate, there are sands that are calcareous, meant for rift lake cichlid and livebearer tanks. If the source water is soft, smaller volume water changes could prevent fluctuations, but you would need to test this out before adding fish. Stability is essential with parameters.