New API Test kit

[Freshwater Sucker Fish]

Note this is a crowded fish tank...

Note I just did a 75 percent water change yesterday

My ammonia is 0.25 ppm

Nitrate N02 0 ppm

My Nitrate is N03 5.0 ppm

Few questions Because I never had a test problem before.

Should I get API quick start for the ammonia problem? how big of a concern is ammonia?

is my nitrate a problem? API test manual says it's okay as long as it's under 40 ppm.

 

[Slaphppy7]

Any time ammonia is present, a WC is in order, the bigger, the better, in most cases...ammonia is a big concern

You don't need "quick start" or anything else of the nature, just a large WC with a good conditioner, like Seachem Prime or API Tap Water Conditioner

NitrAte is not the issue, ammonia is...what size tank? How long has it been set up? Was/is it cycled? Describe what you mean by "crowded" fish tank

What test kit are you using? The liquid master test kit?

 

[Freshwater Sucker Fish]

It's a 30 gal tank I bought a 55 gal so it had to be moved. so it had a 75 percent water change. It holds gosh like 50 -100 guppies I just used a tap water conditioner to the water after the test. Thanks for that advice This tank has been running for at least 1 year. Never had very many fish die. maybe 3 or so. over the course of that time. It has a sponge filter, carbon, and eco rocks on top. at the moment only aqua rocks nothing else in it.

 

[Byron]

On the ammonia, I generally agree with post #2, but there are a couple of things. Have you tested your tap water on its own for ammonia (and nitrite and nitrate)? And do they add chloramine (in place of or with chlorine) to your water? Several members with ammonia at this low a number have found out it is the ammonia in the chloramine. In which case, ignore it. Do you have live plants? These can deal with this low a level of ammonia on their own, depending.

On the nitrate, that is OK. I disagree with API though when it comes to the level be OK if under 40 ppm. It is not. Nitrate at 20 ppm is as high as it should ever be, and preferably well below this. My tanks are in the 0-5 ppm range according to the API liquid test, and they have been for over a decade now. This is what you want, very low and consistent every time you test. Always test just before the water change, for a few weeks anyway, and on the day following a couple of these times, to see if it remains the same or if it is going down with the water change and increasing by the time of the next W/C.

 

[Fishfinder1973]

Have you added any fish recently?that could cause a minor ammonia spike.

 

[Freshwater Sucker Fish]

Ty @Byron I don't have live plants just the information above. I tested and it's a well-known fact our water has chlorine IDK if that's the same thing as chloramine. I have not tested the tap water for ammonia (and nitrite and nitrate). Ill do that though. the test kit i use is called API Fresh water Master test kit

 

[Freshwater Sucker Fish]

Have you added any fish recently?that could cause a minor ammonia spike.

no.

 

[Byron]

Ty @Byron I don't have live plants just the information above. I tested and it's a well-known fact our water has chlorine IDK if that's the same thing as chloramine. I have not tested the tap water for ammonia (and nitrite and nitrate). Ill do that though. the test kit i use is called API Fresh water Master test kit

That's a good kit, I use it. Check the website of your water authority, they will say if chloramine is added. Conditio0ner will deal with b oth, but the ammonia in chloramine seems to test as "ammonia" with our kits, so this is worth knowing. If this is all it is, ignore it.

 

[Fishfinder1973]

I use the API kit and I find the 0ppm and 25ppm ammonia isn’t easy to distinguish between.
I wouldn’t bother with another water change,but instead test the water twice a day to see if the ammonia goes up.
Lots of things can cause a spike in ammonia,from cleaning the filter too much,after a deep gravel vac if not done regular.
Have you checked for a dead fish? You have lots after all.

 

[Slaphppy7]

I use this to read my TT colors, instead of the card that comes with the kit...often, the card colors look the same to me, and they even vary a bit from one kit to another, I've noticed

Free Downloads | Pump & Filter Instructions | Test Kit charts

Free Aquarium and Pond Downloads. Test Kit Instructions & color charts. Via Aqua powerhead & Multi-filter directions. UV installation diagrams.

www.americanaquariumproducts.com

 

[Freshwater Sucker Fish]

Update I tested my tap water what gave me more questions than answers

The readings are as follows

PH 7.6
High range PH 7.4 <---why ( my fish tank reading is 8.2)
Ammonia 0.25
Nitrate N02 0 ppm
Nitrate N03 0 ppm

Since I added the water conditioner to the fish tank I have not tested my water. Tomorrow job.

Did I do a wrong reading on PH before?? or does ph change in fish tanks?

 

[Colin_T]

Post a picture of the tank and tell us what is in it.

If you have calcium based rocks or substrate, that will raise the pH.
The tap water could also have lots of carbon dioxide (CO2) in and be lacking oxygen. When you aerate the tap water, the dissolved gasses go back to normal and the pH might go up.

Lots of aquarium plants photosynthesising will raise the pH during the day and lower it at night. this is due to the plants using up the CO2 and with the CO2 gone, the pH goes up.

 

[Byron]

I just read/posted in your other thread, and coming to this present one, there are some cross-over issues that must get resolved/answered. First and foremost, the actual GH of your tap water (check the website of your municipal water authority, or call them). The pH in that thread was said to be 6.6, but in this thread it is 7.6 and then 8.2, so this needs to get sorted out, and knowing the GH, pH and KH of the tap water on its own is the first step.

When testing tap water for pH, you need to out-gas any CO2. Colin refers to this too. Otherwise the test result may be misleading. This is not needed for water in an aquarium, just the tap water; let a glass of water sit for 24 hours, then test, that will be the more accurate pH of the tap water.

 

[Freshwater Sucker Fish]

Wow, thank you both Never knew any of that!

All my Tank has in it is store-bought aqua rocks. and water. No plants. normally I have artificial plants but I took them out for the time being. I'm willing to bet anything it's the C02 for harshness difference. Keep You posted when I check nitrate levels again water conditioner hopefully fixed that

 

[Byron]

Wow, thank you both Never knew any of that!

All my Tank has in it is store-bought aqua rocks. and water. No plants. normally I have artificial plants but I took them out for the time being. I'm willing to bet anything it's the C02 for harshness difference. Keep You posted when I check nitrate levels again water conditioner hopefully fixed that

Conditioners will have no bearing on nitrates. Prime "detoxifies" nitrate temporarily, but within 24-36 hours any "nitrate" still present is no longer de-toxified. And our aquarium test kits will still show "nitrate" regardless of Prime. Nitrite is also part of this...another issue.

We also need to know the GH, along with the pH of the tap water. These are connected.