Need Some Help With My Water Parameters

bayo

New Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Hello aquarist!

I'm a newbie in all this. I recently (2 weeks ago) bought a Fluval Edge 6gal tank. At my LFS they recommended to star the cycle with 3 Neon Tetras and with a solution they sell for accelerating the bacteria during cycling. Long story short, I just measured my water and this is what I got:

PH : 7.6
Amonia: 0
Nitrite: 5 ppm
Nitrate: 10 ppm

Are these parameters out of whack? What do you recommend to do?

Any words of wisdom will be more than welcome! :)

Have a nice Sunday.
 
Big big water change to get the nitrite down. Seems like the bacteria accelerator has got your ammonia processing going, but now you need to wait until it can process the nitrite. That sort of level can kill your fish pretty fast I think.
 
Hi bayo.

ok so you are in a fish in cycle. this isnt the best way to do it tbh especially with neon tetras as they are quite a sensitive fish when it comes to poor water quality which you will have during a fish in cycle im affraid, but you were unaware of this so its not your fault.

there is much debate about the bacteria in a bottle with most people saying that its a waste of time and money as the bacteria that was in the bottle has nothing to survive on while its being stored so therefor dies off before you have even opened the bottle. now you have it you may as well use it but i would be suprised if it helped the cycle at all....

so you have had the tank set up for 2 weeks and the neons are still alive so thats a good start. your pH is fine nothing to worry about there just keep an eye on it during the cycle as it can drop which may cause the cycle to stall, so test it often and keep an eye on it. the 0 ammonia is great as ammonia is toxic to all fish so no worries here. with nitrite at 5ppm it shows that you have the bacteria formed that converts the ammonia into nitrite. nitrite is also toxic to fish though so this level isnt good for them, it needs to be at 0 ideally. the only way to get it down to 0 is to do water changes during the cycle which will reduce the nitrite level. a 50% water change will half the amount so calculate the amount of water that needs to be changed each time to get it back to 0. this will probably mean water changes every day until the filter is cycled...
have you tested your tap water for nitrate at all? if not then i would do so. my tap water has 10ppm nitrate. nitrate is the end product in the cycle and this will continue to rise as the nitrite is transformed into nitrate, its ok to have levels of nitrate in the tank as this doesnt seem to effect many fish until its starting to get quite high. once the filter has completed its cycle and you have 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite constantly the nitrate will rise as i said. live plants can help remove nitrates from the water as they use them to grow along with other things. you will read about people doing regular water changes in a cycled tank and this is mainly to reduce the nitrate levels in the water and to add minerals in the tap water that will help the fish keep healthy. testing your tap water will let you know the nitrate levels you have before the cycle is complete, once it starts to rise over this tap level you know that the bacteria that transforms the nitrite into nitrate is forming.

in time your results should be ammonia = 0, nitrite = 0, nitrate = more than your tap water

for the time being keep testing the water for all the above including the pH and do relevant water changes to keep the levels at 0 for ammonia and nitrite.

i would reccomend doing a large water change today of about 80%. leave it for an hour or so then test it again. you will still have nitrites but much less and do another change that will hopefully get the level down to 0. apart from the fishes health this is the bad thing about doing a fish in cycle as you need to change lots of water and you will get through plenty of dechlorinator during the process. the reason shops tell you to do it this way is because fish that die during the cycle will need replacing and along with plenty of dechlorinator and bacteria in a bottle products they sell you make them a nice sale :grr:

stick at it and the maintenance becomes a water change once a week instead of once or twice a day and on a tank of your size will take you 10 minutes to do so you can enjoy the tank instead of finding it a right mission to keep on top of. there is light at the end of the tunnel.....

also what water test are you using? the reason i ask is that there are paper strip tests available that are cheaper to buy but much less accurate than the more expensive liquid test kits. look on ebay for an API freshwater master test kit and this will have everythig you need and will last a long time and are much cheaper on ebay than in the shops :good: ;)

good luck with the cycle and keep at it.
 
This advise is correct, don't be afraid of changing the water multiple times a day in huge amounts, as long as you are mixing the water with conditioner before you add to the tank it is much better than the poison that is being produced by the cycle.

I have done 2-3 75-80% changes in one day and seen no ill effect, in fact my fish are doing well and my cycle is almost over at just around 5 weeks..

the advise from the people here is sound, and you will see excellent results for you efforts.
 
reading it htrough again what i put i didnt mention to get the new water as close to the tank waters temperature so the fish dont get a shock from a temperature change. also add it slowly and add dechlorinator :good:
 
Wow! I'm speechless. I learned a lot today from you guys. I just wanted to give you a quick update. I read your posts and did exactly what you suggested me to do. Like 3 hours ago I changed ~70% of my water using dechlorinator and made sure the water temperature was very similar to the water in the tank. I guess I had not much luck because after changing the water and waited for about an hour, I measured the parameters and my nitrates were still at 5. I am using the API Master water desk kit, but the nitrate in this test goes up to 5, so I am assuming my nitrate was WAY higher that 5. I did another water change, about 15 minutes ago and I am waiting a bit more to test it again. I really hope that my parameters are more under control. Did I mention before that I have a 4 live plants in my tank? When I bought the tank from my LFS I bought everything they recommended and did everything by the book of what they told me. So, I guess they only wanted to sell as many things as they could, because I was totally a newbie. Any ways, I really like this hobby and the more I read, the more I like. I will keep you guys posted and thank you very much for your insightful replies.
Bayo
 
is it your nitrATE or nitrITE that thats at 5ppm? if its nitrate then thats not an issue but if its nitrite you will need to keep doing water changes whenever possible to reduce it back to 0ppm.

plants can only be a good thing in tanks, as long as the live plants are doing well they will help reduce the nitrates slightly as they use these to help them grow. depending on what type of plant they are depends on the consumption of nitrate. if they are fast growing plants then they will use more but with only 4 plants i doubt it will make all tht much difference tbh.

when you say API master water desk kit is this the master kit that uses liquids in the test tubes? if so these are what i use and they are a decent test kit. if its a test strip that you dip in the water then they are not very accurate so it may be worth buying the liquid kit if you dont have it already. shop around and you will find one cheap and it will last for ages :good:

the lfs will try and sell you chemicals for lots of things but before you buy anything its worth asking on here first as you may save some cash and time.

keep changing that water and good luck :good:
 
Try to follow what I am about to say bayo because it is not all that obvious. Bigger water changes are always better. Here is why.

You change a 70% amount and the amount of poisons remaining is 30% of the original concentration. You then do another 70% water change and the new concentration is 30% of the intermediate concentration which is .3 x .3 times the original concentration or about 9%.

Now think about a simple 95% water change. The remaining water is only a 1 in 20 ratio or 5% of the original concentration. That single 95% change did more good than 2 separate 70% water changes. It would have taken a third 50% water change to reach that value using the relatively smaller 70% changes.

Conclusion. Bigger water changes do far more good than smaller ones and end up being less work to perform as well.

Because you have very high nitrite concentrations, do not mess about with tiny 70% water changes. Get serious and get rid of those poisons with a minimum of effort.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top