Need some help please

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Clint mclaughlin

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I have a 54 gallon corner tank it has been cycled for 2 months, I have aquaclear fluval 70 with 2 sponges in it and bio max media in it. Lost power at my house for about 3 days and my tank now has 1.0 ppm ammonia. I have a stock tanked of 4 dwarf gouramis, 5 mollies, 6 cories, 3 guppies, 2 patties, 1 chocolate pleco, and six snails. I have six plants in it from swords to Madagascar Lace plant, and some moss balls. I'm still learning I just added a sponge filter to it last week. I've been doseing with prime to keep the ammonia non toxic and doing 30% water changes everyday. So my question is there a safe way to recycle my tank? I don't have anywhere to move the fish so they have to stay in unfortunately. It's been about 8 days now still no nitrites and nitrates. Ph is 7.1 or 7.2 depending on my digital Metter and api test says the same, the temp of the tank is at 76 degress. Thanks in advanced for any help or ideas
 
As far as a safe way to recycle a tank with fish in it, I think all you can do is fewer water changes but when you do a water change - try doing a 75% water change after the tank has cycled. Doing multiple 30% water changes isn't going to get you any where.

A 1.0ppm ammonia is not particularly high when you are cycling a tank. I would add nothing until the ammonia levels got to 3 or 4 ppm.

I had the same problem when I added too many fish at once and for some reason the tank lost it's cycling. After messing around with adding prime and stability and AmGuard I felt like I was slowing the cycling process down. So I stopped adding all the chemicals (other than prime when I did a water change) and the tank is finally cycled. I think I was adding too many chemicals that - while it kept the ammonia down it also prevented the tank from cycling. Once I stopped trying to control low levels of ammonia I immediately got ammonia readings of zero and nitrite readings of .25- .50. and eventually nitrite readings of zero. Once you feel the tank is cycled - meaning you have zero ammonia and nitrite readings for two days in a row you can do a massive water change. (adding prime if you are using tap water). And hopefully then you can consider your tank cycled. This could take as little as a couple of weeks to 4-6 weeks. Very frustrating but Ammonia levels of 1.0 are not going to kill any fish so don't sweat the small stuff. After that do a 50-75% water change weekly or at least every two weeks. I know that's a lot of work for a large tank but that's what it takes. I have 4 tanks - one 5 gallon and 3 - 29 gallon (one of which is being ammonia cycled so I can reduce the populations in another tank) and water changes are just exhausting sometimes. Once I have the 4th tank ready it will be an even bigger commitment.

I used to use a Python until it kept sucking up my tiny fish as well as emptied the tank so quickly that I didn't have time to clean the gravel. It also caused my sink to over-run because it took so much water pressure the water wouldn't go down the drain fast enough and the sink overflowed while I was down the hall suctioning the substrate (that was quite a mess). I now use a much smaller tool that you have to squeeze a bulb to get it to suction and the water goes into a bucket which I empty into the toilet. Much easier to control and no fish damages. I then fill the bucket with lukewarm water and replace it (adding a little bit of prime each time). Takes me about 45 minutes to clean the tank - including cleaning the filter if necessary (but I'm very slow and can only carry 3 gallons of water at a time)

Others may come along with better advice - but this is what worked for me. I still have two other tanks that just refuse to cycle (the 5 gallon in particular) and am getting ammonia readings of 4.0 or higher and no nitrates. I am adding chemicals to get the ammonia down and doing large water changes. One is showing signs of cycling - I'm starting to get lower ammonia and higher nitrites so I think I just have to be patient.
 
Hi and welcome to the forum :)

Reduce feeding to a small amount once every couple of days.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day until the ammonia levels are down to 0. Then do a 75% water change any day it goes above 0.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.

Increase aeration/ surface turbulence to maximise the oxygen levels in the water.

Clean the filter materials in a bucket of tank water and re-use them.

The filter bacteria will recover over the next couple of weeks and when things settle down you can do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate once a week, and feed the fish every day.
 
Just curious, @Colin-_T, if you do daily 75% water changes then how does the cycle get going? I was taught not to do water changes unless the ammonia began climbing as you needed a little to get the bacteria going.
 
Fish are always producing ammonia and the filter bacteria only need a small amount to live on. Doing a 75% water change is unlikely to remove all the ammonia but it will get the level down low enough so the fish hopefully don't die from it.

The fish should be the first priority and filter bacteria next. If there's lots of ammonia the bacteria grow but the fish get poisoned.

The OP's tank has already been cycled so it's just a matter of keeping the fish healthy while the remaining filter bacteria recolonise the filter.
 
Fish are always producing ammonia and the filter bacteria only need a small amount to live on. Doing a 75% water change is unlikely to remove all the ammonia but it will get the level down low enough so the fish hopefully don't die from it.

The fish should be the first priority and filter bacteria next. If there's lots of ammonia the bacteria grow but the fish get poisoned.

The OP's tank has already been cycled so it's just a matter of keeping the fish healthy while the remaining filter bacteria recolonise the filter.
@Colin_T I would Test first and only do it if the ammonia is rising instead of automatically doing it. Seems like your way could slow down the cycle. A simple test will tell you what to do and only takes a few minutes.
 
I agree with Colin on this. The bacteria does not live in the water so all you are removing is ammonia. After 3 days there will be some bacteria remaining in the filter so getting it back up to full levels should not take more than a week.
 
Thanks guys for advice my ammonia was at 2ppm about an hour ago so I feed the fish cause it's been three days and just did about 60%water change, to bring it back, down and won't feed for another 2 or 3 days, I keep u guys posted thanks for the help, as soon as I get some nitrites I'll let u guys know, really do appreciate the help
 
I disagree on this point but it’s all good.
 
Just stick to what you’re doing. It may take a little longer than how I would do it but you’ll get there just fine. Jan explained it very well above. The bacteria needs a tiny bit of ammonia to get going but again, you’ll get there. The guys like to think they know it all so I usually let them. :)
 
Just stick to what you’re doing. It may take a little longer than how I would do it but you’ll get there just fine. Jan explained it very well above. The bacteria needs a tiny bit of ammonia to get going but again, you’ll get there. The guys like to think they know it all so I usually let them. :)
Okay thank u for responding appreciate it, I'll repost tommorw or the next day to update
 
Just stick to what you’re doing. It may take a little longer than how I would do it but you’ll get there just fine. Jan explained it very well above. The bacteria needs a tiny bit of ammonia to get going but again, you’ll get there. The guys like to think they know it all so I usually let them. :)
Out of curiosity how would u do it?
 
I would do as Jan explained and wait until ammonia gets to .50 - 1 ppm before water change. Too many water changes can slow down cycling.
 

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