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Need a fertilizer!

This tank is on a timer.9 hours a day.from 11:30 to 7:30.What would be a good wattage of bulb to shoot for and where could I find one?Nutrient issue a deficiency or too much flourish?

I would still like a picture of the underside of the hood so I can be certain of the type of bulb. That could make a difference.

The nutrient issue is possibly too much. With more intense lighting this can work because the brighter the light the more nutrient are needed for photosynthesis. But there is more to this so don't run with this too fast.
 
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would be a good wattage of bulb to shoot for and where could I find one?

Look for a 1500 lumen bulb. Ignore the wattage. Watts is just a measure of electrical consumption. It doesn't tell you how bright the bulb is. Lumen is a measure of how bright the light is.

The other issue you might run into is will the brighter bulb fit in your aquarium hood? You might have to do a lot of looking before you find what you are looking for. Based on your picture that is your biggest problem to solve. You might have to scrap the hood and purchase a seperature light.

Nutrient issue a deficiency or too much flourish?

Difficult to tell if it is a deficiency. Flourish comprehensive is one of the better fertilizers out there. Most fertilizers are diffident in at least 3 or 4 nutrients. The flourish recipe is week on the macro nutrients N/P/K/Ca/Mg/S but covers most of the trace nutrients other fertilizers miss.

Check your water harness GH. That is combined measurement of Ca and mg (calcium and magnesium. for N your typical aquarium nitrate test kit will tell you what that is. Ideally you want that between 5 and 15ppm. Plants will handle high nitrogen levels well but fish are more sensitive to it. As for the rest the are some P (phosphorous/phosphate) test kits available but some are pricy. Hanna instruments sells a good one HI713 for $50. K test kits for fresh water are hard to find. S (sulfer/ sulfate) test kits are extremely hard to find. The ones I have found are very expensive.

If your GH is low (120ppm or less) A GH booster. Sachem equilibrium might be a good idea it would add Ca/ Mg/ S and some K without doing any harm as long as you keep your GH level very close to your current GH (That means you will probably be dosing very small amounts 1/64 teaspoon or less). My phosphate generally is low so i check that with my Hanna meter and add some to keep it between 0.3 and 1ppm. The phosphate fertilizer also adds some K.

Since you have been overdosing for some time I would not worry about trace levels right now. In any case you would need to spend $1000 dollars to get test kits for most of the trace nutrients. It is just not practical to test for them. Just reduce your dose to a little below recommendation to allow water changes and plant growth to consume the excess. And than after a month or so bring the dose to the recommended level.
 
Is 1250 lumens and 50000K good enough? It is 75 watts

If you really meant 50,000K...no. I am more inclined to think this is 5000K? That's OK. But...I really would not go this high. From the earlier photo, we are talking about CFL bulbs. I have two 9w CFL 6500K over my 10g, and the same over my 20, and it is more than sufficient. I've no idea what the PAR is, these are just basic GE CFL spiral bulbs. I'm attaching a photo (not the greatest but the only one I've got) of this tank back when I had more plants in it, as opposed to now when it is a nursery for pygmy cories and Farlowella fry (photo 2, Sep 2, 2015). These CFL bulbs are excellent light.
 

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Yes, the 6500K is about the best planted tank light spectrum you can use. All of myu tanks have this as the basic tube/bulb, with a 5000K tube for the second in my dual tube tanks. But 6500K is good light.

I checked that link and cannot be certain if they mean this is the equivalent of 75 watts, or if it is 75 watts. My two 9w CFL bulbs are equivalent to 40w. So if this one is equivalent to 75w, it should do for intensity. Next issue is as Steven mentioned, is this too hot for the fixture?
 
Doubt it.This fixture has many holes in the top and around the bulb to let heat out.it is from what I know equivalent to 75W incadescent it is actually 19 watts I think but is equivalent to the other thing.
 
Doubt it.This fixture has many holes in the top and around the bulb to let heat out.it is from what I know equivalent to 75W incadescent it is actually 19 watts I think but is equivalent to the other thing.


That should deal with the light issue then. I noticed the duration previously, you might want to pare this back a bit. I have my tanks on for 8 hours, one of them only 7, and this provides the balance to avoid problem algae. Duratio you can rather work out, using algae as the key. The brighter bulb might need less duration.
 
Ok so the bulb I got is 1300 lumens and get this only 5000k So its a little less that expected and I can't take it back as the first one broke it was such a big bulb just to get it to fit I had to take off the plastic covering and the piece of metal that goes behind the bulb.
 
Just as a side note: lumens is how we see the light (visible spectrum) but not necessarily as helpful to the plants. PAR or PUR are more appropriate for plants. PAR (photosynthetically available radiation) or PUR (photosynthetically useful radiation). Some lights have ratings for one of these as they are far more common and accurate to the needs of aquarist gardeners than any other measure.
 
The amount of PAR or PUR depends on the plants.
 
Ok so this bulb will help i presume?

Probably. The 5000K is OK, it is "warmer" in terms of light which means more red and less blue ("cool" means more blue and less red), and red is important for photosynthesis, so that is not a problem. Referring to your previous post about the bulb not fitting, etc, be careful; it must not come into contact with water (needs a clear glass or similar cover) or it may explode.
 

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