Nano Help, Ph And Other Questions

[alchameth]

Ok I have read quite a few topics on the subject of PH, some say buffer, some say don't just use better salt etc.... all this leaves me a bit confused.

I am cycling my 12g nano for about a month now. had misc problems with trAtes and temp and flow etc. Here is where I stand and I am looking for some advice.

12g cube with 12lbs of LR and about 6-8lbs of LS
The rock is very alive, I have some major growth, brown fuzz, little hairs, and red and green spots that are growing what seems to be plant leafs. 4 chamber filter, C1 has the heater, C2 has large mesh aeration sponge, with about 2 inches of fine sponge, I clean this weekly, C3 has 1.5lbs of rubble, and C4 has my intake hose for my MJ900, which puts me at about 20X cycle per hour.

My readings come out as
Ammonia = 0-0.2 PPM constantly
nitrite's - 0.2 PPM constant
nitrates = 5-10 PPM constantly
PH has always been 7.8-8.0

I am using purified water (RO/De-ioz with nothing added back), bought from the store and mixing my own salt water, my gravity has been coming out at 1.022-1.023 on the dot for the whole month. Lastly the salt I am using is Instant Ocean. Now I have been trying to buffer with Kent Marine Pro Buffer dKH, I admit I have not been doing it every MORNING like it suggests, but I have been doing it every day for 10 days with no change.

Ok so down to it, how can I get my PH to an acceptable level, few points off but I don't want any chance or reason once I start adding my crew, which I guessing has to be soon as my rock is starting to "poop" brown onto my sand; I say this because until agitated it looks like little brown worms but when it gets mixed up it just browns my sand.

I have quite a few (6) FW tanks and this nano has taught me patience so I do not want to rush it.

BTW I am very happy with the rock and sand I bought from Prem Aquatics, a lot of very nice color variation's on the nano rock they are selling and as soon as I find a site to upload a pic i will post one. I was able to make a very nice cave and leave room for the coral I eventually want to add once I get all this worked out.

Look forward to some advice on all this.

Thanks in advance

 

[BigC]

http/www.redseafish.com/Product.asp?dir=...8&proID=283
They guarantee water prams,
75' - 1.023 - 32.8ppt - calcium 450ppm - pH8.2

I'm going with it as a newbie, but from a personal standpoint people like SkiFletch and SH amongst others on here will be able to give you other alternatives. They provide excellent advice.
Regards
BigC

 

[AndyS]

I would be most concerned with your ammonia levels, these need to be 0 before adding any livestock. Id suggest changing salt brands, see if that helps, i use Tropic Marin Pro Reef, and have a constant PH of 8.4, what substrate do you have?

 

[alchameth]

I would be most concerned with your ammonia levels, these need to be 0 before adding any livestock. Id suggest changing salt brands, see if that helps, i use Tropic Marin Pro Reef, and have a constant PH of 8.4, what substrate do you have?

Florida Life sand from Prem Aquatics, 6 or so lbs, comes out to be a nice 2inch base

My ammonia just went up to .2 over the past 2 days, prior I didn't see it above 0 from day 1. The rock has been growing and shedding so I figured that was it. I figure I am 1-2 water changes away from stocking the tank, but that all depends on the numbers. Def not gonna rush it.

 

[SkiFletch]

Well if you're seeing ammonia and nitrite, one of 3 things is wrong:

There really is ammonia and nitrite present in the aquarium
There is error inherent in the way you actually do the test (mixin chemicals, reading strips, etc)
The test kit may not be reliable at exceptionally low concentrations

I'd be most inclined to believe option 3 if you have rock crawling with macroalgaes...

About the pH, it is NOT as simple as just adding buffer. As a matter of fact, adding buffer may even be harming the situation. You first need to ascertain if the pH "problem" (although I've seen many successful tanks in the 7.9-8.0 range) is the result of poor gas exchange. Take pH readings first thing in the morning, and then again just before lights-out and report back here

 

[AndyS]

Actually Ski, i have read a number of reports detailing that NitrITE isnt actually that harmful to marine fish, and they arent really that affected by it, i didnt believe it at first, but a number of sources detail this.

 

[SkiFletch]

That's correct Andy, there are many such articles out there and I somewhat agree with and disagree with them. However what everyone will agree on is that 0.2ppm of ammonia IS toxic and especially dangerous to invertebrates

 

[AndyS]

However what everyone will agree on is that 0.2ppm of ammonia IS toxic and especially dangerous to invertebrates

 

[steelhealr]

OK...are you ready? Forget the numbers...forget the buffering...stop killing yourself.

The majority of nano reefs are unstable in the beginning. My tank ran at pH 7.8 for nearly several months. There are mulitple changes going on..some of which is photosynthesis if you have coralline algae, macros, etc. The best way to take care of your tank right now is the following:

1) keep up with your weekly water changes
2) step back..look at your tank...admire the beauty. As ski says..if things are swimming and colors are a-poppin' and the water is clear, LEAVE IT ALONE.
3) More importantly, maintain a nice steady temp and s.g.. Avoid swings
4) If you MUST futz with something, work at maintainingn good calcium levels. In the beginning, the safest way to do this is with a 2 part buffer such as B-Ionic or Kent's 2 part.

What I have found to be of great benefit...is a refugium stocked with macroagae that's runs opposite the tank lighting. It does wonders with regards to pH and nitrates.

Here is a test for you...check your tank's pH just before lights out and then recheck it 12 hours later just before the lights come on in the morning. Post your results here.

Consider changing your test kit. API is one of the best for what we do if you don't have the big bucks for the Mercedes Benz kits.



SH

 

[alchameth]

Thanks

I have replaced the test kit and everything seems to be spot on after 2 more water changes. The only levels reading was Trates and they came in less then 10ppm

I went with a Instant Ocean test kit that uses powDer packs not the liquid chems, 1/4 the tests for 3X the price but better then the frustration and cost of replacing animals....

PH turned out to be CO2 I guess, once I got the MJ installed and got good agitation on the surface it went up within 2 days.