My Very First Tank...

Not everywhere injects oxygen - have not seen it in the UK, however I have seen my LFS add stress-coat.
If you haven't had fish for 20 yrs or more have a look at this link which discusses drip acclimation as opposed to float and drop. It's not as complicated as it sounds or can be done more simply by adding tank water to the fish bag after it has been floated for 20mins or more to equalise the temp. The top of the bag is then rolled over a few times and this traps air so it can continue to float. Add a cupful of tank water every 10-15 mins for an hour so that the chemistry can equalise too. Then net the fish into the tank without adding the bag water as this may be quite high in ammonia if the fish have had a long journey or a stressful one.
Some people do still do the float and drop method but I only do it if I feel the fish are worse off in the travel bag than in acclimatising slowly.
 
Your LFS doesn't inject oxygen?! :eek:
 
 
I'm kidding.  For short travels, that's not really necessary, but its fairly common in the US.  I can't remember the last time the LFS didn't.
 
eaglesaquarium said:
Your LFS doesn't inject oxygen?!
ohmy.png

 
 
I'm kidding.  For short travels, that's not really necessary, but its fairly common in the US.  I can't remember the last time the LFS didn't.
We were told recently at an LFS that they only do it for long journeys as it is stressful to the fish to be blasted with the Oxygen filling equipment.  So far I have never had it added.
 
 
Stock very slowly, Iwantsomefish so that you can check all is well.
 
What are you hoping to get first?
 
Mamashack said:
Not everywhere injects oxygen - have not seen it in the UK, however I have seen my LFS add stress-coat.
If you haven't had fish for 20 yrs or more have a look at this link which discusses drip acclimation as opposed to float and drop. It's not as complicated as it sounds or can be done more simply by adding tank water to the fish bag after it has been floated for 20mins or more to equalise the temp. The top of the bag is then rolled over a few times and this traps air so it can continue to float. Add a cupful of tank water every 10-15 mins for an hour so that the chemistry can equalise too. Then net the fish into the tank without adding the bag water as this may be quite high in ammonia if the fish have had a long journey or a stressful one.
Some people do still do the float and drop method but I only do it if I feel the fish are worse off in the travel bag than in acclimatising slowly.
 
I've never had fish at all actually but I used to see goldfish being won at the local fair when I was little. I'm going on public transport so was wondering if they put the individual fish/water bags into something else...  I was just imagining clutching a load of empty bags with water and a fish in and what not. Didn't seem quite right.
 
RCA said:
 
Your LFS doesn't inject oxygen?!
ohmy.png

 
 
I'm kidding.  For short travels, that's not really necessary, but its fairly common in the US.  I can't remember the last time the LFS didn't.
We were told recently at an LFS that they only do it for long journeys as it is stressful to the fish to be blasted with the Oxygen filling equipment.  So far I have never had it added.
 
 
Stock very slowly, Iwantsomefish so that you can check all is well.
 
What are you hoping to get first?
 
 
I was under the impression that by doing fishless cycling you should be able to cope with a full stocked fish tank once the cycle is all done, and 6 whole weeks later here I am. (I think it would have been less had I not undershaken my ammonia test tube and overdosed my ammonia as a result) - so I thought I could get them all in one go?
 
First - well if I don't get all at once - oo tough choice - want my fighter maybe a deep blue, but also could get a shoal of cardinals or I was thinking yellow gourami but I might change  my mind when I see the fish in the tank at the store.
 
RCA said:
 
Your LFS doesn't inject oxygen?!
ohmy.png

 
 
I'm kidding.  For short travels, that's not really necessary, but its fairly common in the US.  I can't remember the last time the LFS didn't.
We were told recently at an LFS that they only do it for long journeys as it is stressful to the fish to be blasted with the Oxygen filling equipment.  So far I have never had it added.
 
 
Stock very slowly, Iwantsomefish so that you can check all is well.
 
What are you hoping to get first?
 
 
How do they inject the oxygen?  Here they just fill the bag with the oxygen to 'blow it up'.  They don't put the oxygen into the water directly... that happens naturally at the surface.  But, with more oxygen in the bag, there's more available for it to be absorbed into the water.
 
Iwantsomefish said:
 
Not everywhere injects oxygen - have not seen it in the UK, however I have seen my LFS add stress-coat.
If you haven't had fish for 20 yrs or more have a look at this link which discusses drip acclimation as opposed to float and drop. It's not as complicated as it sounds or can be done more simply by adding tank water to the fish bag after it has been floated for 20mins or more to equalise the temp. The top of the bag is then rolled over a few times and this traps air so it can continue to float. Add a cupful of tank water every 10-15 mins for an hour so that the chemistry can equalise too. Then net the fish into the tank without adding the bag water as this may be quite high in ammonia if the fish have had a long journey or a stressful one.
Some people do still do the float and drop method but I only do it if I feel the fish are worse off in the travel bag than in acclimatising slowly.
 
I've never had fish at all actually but I used to see goldfish being won at the local fair when I was little. I'm going on public transport so was wondering if they put the individual fish/water bags into something else...  I was just imagining clutching a load of empty bags with water and a fish in and what not. Didn't seem quite right.
 
RCA said:
 


Your LFS doesn't inject oxygen?!
ohmy.png

 
 
I'm kidding.  For short travels, that's not really necessary, but its fairly common in the US.  I can't remember the last time the LFS didn't.
We were told recently at an LFS that they only do it for long journeys as it is stressful to the fish to be blasted with the Oxygen filling equipment.  So far I have never had it added.
 
 
Stock very slowly, Iwantsomefish so that you can check all is well.
 
What are you hoping to get first?
 
 
I was under the impression that by doing fishless cycling you should be able to cope with a full stocked fish tank once the cycle is all done, and 6 whole weeks later here I am. (I think it would have been less had I not undershaken my ammonia test tube and overdosed my ammonia as a result) - so I thought I could get them all in one go?
 
First - well if I don't get all at once - oo tough choice - want my fighter maybe a deep blue, but also could get a shoal of cardinals or I was thinking yellow gourami but I might change  my mind when I see the fish in the tank at the store.
 


Have you got an insulation bag or box, that would be the best thing to take with you to keep the fish in until you get home.
 
I believe you are probably right re: the cycling - eagles...?  The reason I said stock slowly is that as you are planning some fish that would not normally live together in the wild, thus you need to see them adjust to their new surroundings.  Unless you see the exact fighter you want I would add him last as that way he hopefully will not see the whole tank as his territory.  I personally would go for a Plakat or Crowntail fighter avoiding the Veiltails and other long finned as I find they are generally not as strong as those previously mentioned.  You can see some of the fighters in Betta Resistance is Futile, including my latest addition, plus my previous one is here.  Bob was my original fighter (this time round), he is a veiltail and currently I am fighting to save this old man.
 
I would also call ahead the stores you are planning to go to and ask them what their process is for new arrivals prior to sale.  For example, do they quarantine for a few days/week, do they treat for anything prior to sale (MA treat three times), when does their shipment come in, when are they available for sale etc?  With my local MA I know their fish come in once a fortnight on a Tuesday evening, then are available for sale from the Saturday.  I therefore will go up on a Wednesday if possible to look at the stock following arrival, then call on a Saturday morning (or Friday evening) requesting the fish, usually a Betta I want them to hold for me - they will only hold for 24 hours.
 
I would also at this stage not mix fish from different stores, then if you have any issues the store should support you in rectifying the issue/replacing the fish.  If they are mixed there will be no guarantee as they may say it was the other stores fish!
 
Cardinals can be more difficult to keep than some of the hardier fish such as Rasboras, I 
wub.png
the Espei's but had to get them ordered in especially for me.  However, I would choose Cardinals over Neons any day.
 
Did you test your source water?
 
eaglesaquarium said:
 
 


Your LFS doesn't inject oxygen?!
ohmy.png

 
 
I'm kidding.  For short travels, that's not really necessary, but its fairly common in the US.  I can't remember the last time the LFS didn't.
We were told recently at an LFS that they only do it for long journeys as it is stressful to the fish to be blasted with the Oxygen filling equipment.  So far I have never had it added.
 
 
Stock very slowly, Iwantsomefish so that you can check all is well.
 
What are you hoping to get first?
 
 
How do they inject the oxygen?  Here they just fill the bag with the oxygen to 'blow it up'.  They don't put the oxygen into the water directly... that happens naturally at the surface.  But, with more oxygen in the bag, there's more available for it to be absorbed into the water.
 


I believe that is what they do here too, but the LFS said that the Oxygen jet can be quite strong entering the bag!  All mine have been fine without it.
 
I did test tap water a few days back when you asked me to check nitrate
, it was bright red. 
 
Actually I meant to say before but another reason I thought put them all in together was so none of them would be bullied as a newcomer. They'd all be new and thus equal.
 
There is a m.a in Wembley so maybe a that's better than pets at home to buy from.
 
Maidenhead Aquatics does stock only fish and fish-keeping equipment, but I think my local PAH does a good job of looking after their fish. The fish guys here seem to know their stuff and give out good advice in my experience. For me it depends on how easy it is to get to the LFS of choice. My "local" MA is 15+ miles away so I wouldn't want to be nipping there for stuff on a regular basis.
 
Mamashack said:
Maidenhead Aquatics does stock only fish and fish-keeping equipment, but I think my local PAH does a good job of looking after their fish. The fish guys here seem to know their stuff and give out good advice in my experience. For me it depends on how easy it is to get to the LFS of choice. My "local" MA is 15+ miles away so I wouldn't want to be nipping there for stuff on a regular basis.
 
Yes my PAH in South Ruislip is quite accessible where the MA is a lot further and less convenient.
BUT
If I am going to buy all my fish at once from one place I thought it might be worth the extra effort if the fish will be healthier than PAH. It also varies as to what fish are in stock too I guess.
 
RCA said:
 
 


Not everywhere injects oxygen - have not seen it in the UK, however I have seen my LFS add stress-coat.
If you haven't had fish for 20 yrs or more have a look at this link which discusses drip acclimation as opposed to float and drop. It's not as complicated as it sounds or can be done more simply by adding tank water to the fish bag after it has been floated for 20mins or more to equalise the temp. The top of the bag is then rolled over a few times and this traps air so it can continue to float. Add a cupful of tank water every 10-15 mins for an hour so that the chemistry can equalise too. Then net the fish into the tank without adding the bag water as this may be quite high in ammonia if the fish have had a long journey or a stressful one.
Some people do still do the float and drop method but I only do it if I feel the fish are worse off in the travel bag than in acclimatising slowly.
 
I've never had fish at all actually but I used to see goldfish being won at the local fair when I was little. I'm going on public transport so was wondering if they put the individual fish/water bags into something else...  I was just imagining clutching a load of empty bags with water and a fish in and what not. Didn't seem quite right.
 
RCA said:
 


Your LFS doesn't inject oxygen?!
ohmy.png

 
 
I'm kidding.  For short travels, that's not really necessary, but its fairly common in the US.  I can't remember the last time the LFS didn't.
We were told recently at an LFS that they only do it for long journeys as it is stressful to the fish to be blasted with the Oxygen filling equipment.  So far I have never had it added.
 
 
Stock very slowly, Iwantsomefish so that you can check all is well.
 
What are you hoping to get first?
 
 
I was under the impression that by doing fishless cycling you should be able to cope with a full stocked fish tank once the cycle is all done, and 6 whole weeks later here I am. (I think it would have been less had I not undershaken my ammonia test tube and overdosed my ammonia as a result) - so I thought I could get them all in one go?
 
First - well if I don't get all at once - oo tough choice - want my fighter maybe a deep blue, but also could get a shoal of cardinals or I was thinking yellow gourami but I might change  my mind when I see the fish in the tank at the store.
 


Have you got an insulation bag or box, that would be the best thing to take with you to keep the fish in until you get home.
 
I believe you are probably right re: the cycling - eagles...?  The reason I said stock slowly is that as you are planning some fish that would not normally live together in the wild, thus you need to see them adjust to their new surroundings.  Unless you see the exact fighter you want I would add him last as that way he hopefully will not see the whole tank as his territory.  I personally would go for a Plakat or Crowntail fighter avoiding the Veiltails and other long finned as I find they are generally not as strong as those previously mentioned.  You can see some of the fighters in Betta Resistance is Futile, including my latest addition, plus my previous one is here.  Bob was my original fighter (this time round), he is a veiltail and currently I am fighting to save this old man.
 
I would also call ahead the stores you are planning to go to and ask them what their process is for new arrivals prior to sale.  For example, do they quarantine for a few days/week, do they treat for anything prior to sale (MA treat three times), when does their shipment come in, when are they available for sale etc?  With my local MA I know their fish come in once a fortnight on a Tuesday evening, then are available for sale from the Saturday.  I therefore will go up on a Wednesday if possible to look at the stock following arrival, then call on a Saturday morning (or Friday evening) requesting the fish, usually a Betta I want them to hold for me - they will only hold for 24 hours.
 
I would also at this stage not mix fish from different stores, then if you have any issues the store should support you in rectifying the issue/replacing the fish.  If they are mixed there will be no guarantee as they may say it was the other stores fish!
 
Cardinals can be more difficult to keep than some of the hardier fish such as Rasboras, I 
wub.png
the Espei's but had to get them ordered in especially for me.  However, I would choose Cardinals over Neons any day.
 
Did you test your source water?
 
eaglesaquarium said:
 
 


Your LFS doesn't inject oxygen?!
ohmy.png

 
 
I'm kidding.  For short travels, that's not really necessary, but its fairly common in the US.  I can't remember the last time the LFS didn't.
We were told recently at an LFS that they only do it for long journeys as it is stressful to the fish to be blasted with the Oxygen filling equipment.  So far I have never had it added.
 
 
Stock very slowly, Iwantsomefish so that you can check all is well.
 
What are you hoping to get first?
 
 
How do they inject the oxygen?  Here they just fill the bag with the oxygen to 'blow it up'.  They don't put the oxygen into the water directly... that happens naturally at the surface.  But, with more oxygen in the bag, there's more available for it to be absorbed into the water.
 


I believe that is what they do here too, but the LFS said that the Oxygen jet can be quite strong entering the bag!  All mine have been fine without it.
 


 
RCA - I called PAH and MA - neither said they treated pre sale, they both said they quarantined before sale, MA said they treat tanks periodically but not before sale in particular.
 
They all said they have cardinals, fighters and gold grouami in stock but I am dying to get a beautiful navy blue fighter and PAH said they only have pale blue so guess I might have to hock over to MA unless I decide I can live with the mid blue...
 
Decisions decisions...
 
RCA said:
I believe that is what they do here too, but the LFS said that the Oxygen jet can be quite strong entering the bag!  All mine have been fine without it.

 
 
That's crazy.  Not saying it may not be true, but I've never seen the water even ripple when they do it with my fish.  Certainly if you are bringing the fish right home and your local, there's not a need.  But, my LFS all do it anyway.  My 'not so local' LFS is 2 hours away.  I'm glad they do it, but even then its not really necessary for even the 2 hour drive.  But, why not be safe, rather than sorry? ;)
 
Iwantsomefish said:
 

RCA - I called PAH and MA - neither said they treated pre sale, they both said they quarantined before sale, MA said they treat tanks periodically but not before sale in particular.

 
They all said they have cardinals, fighters and gold grouami in stock but I am dying to get a beautiful navy blue fighter and PAH said they only have pale blue so guess I might have to hock over to MA unless I decide I can live with the mid blue...
 
Decisions decisions...
 
I would find out what tail types the Bettas are (as previously posted), and go more on that than colouring, although I do agree colouring is also important.  In respect to a navy blue fighter that you are after, be aware that with the dark colours it is not so clear to see the Bettas face.  Bob for example is so dark on his head I have to look very, very closely to check on him.  Right now it appears he has some sort of lump inside his old head, although it has been there awhile and does not seem to be growing anymore.
 
Also, in respect to your source water being bright red, therein is your problem, you will have high nitrAtes as your source water is high.
 
I do not know either of the stores you are planning on going too, as I have not been to them.  Each PAH and MA are different, so if it was me I would look in the nearest to home first, then move onto the other store and take a look prior to my final decision.  If this is not possible, I personally would go to the store with the most fighters 
wink.png
  If you can get a Plakat, as they are generally smaller, and as already stated I find them stronger.
 
As MS stated, pictures, pictures, pictures, are a must.  In fact, take your camera with you and also photograph any other fish, especially Bettas, that you liked but did not buy, we like to see them in Betta Resistance is Futile, so feel free to add to that topic any "rejects" 
yes.gif

 
Happy shopping ...
 
eaglesaquarium said:
 
I believe that is what they do here too, but the LFS said that the Oxygen jet can be quite strong entering the bag!  All mine have been fine without it.

 
 
That's crazy.  Not saying it may not be true, but I've never seen the water even ripple when they do it with my fish.  Certainly if you are bringing the fish right home and your local, there's not a need.  But, my LFS all do it anyway.  My 'not so local' LFS is 2 hours away.  I'm glad they do it, but even then its not really necessary for even the 2 hour drive.  But, why not be safe, rather than sorry?
wink.png

 
Yup 
yes.gif
 
RCA said:
 
 

RCA - I called PAH and MA - neither said they treated pre sale, they both said they quarantined before sale, MA said they treat tanks periodically but not before sale in particular.

 
They all said they have cardinals, fighters and gold grouami in stock but I am dying to get a beautiful navy blue fighter and PAH said they only have pale blue so guess I might have to hock over to MA unless I decide I can live with the mid blue...
 
Decisions decisions...
 
I would find out what tail types the Bettas are (as previously posted), and go more on that than colouring, although I do agree colouring is also important.  In respect to a navy blue fighter that you are after, be aware that with the dark colours it is not so clear to see the Bettas face.  Bob for example is so dark on his head I have to look very, very closely to check on him.  Right now it appears he has some sort of lump inside his old head, although it has been there awhile and does not seem to be growing anymore.
 
Also, in respect to your source water being bright red, therein is your problem, you will have high nitrAtes as your source water is high.
 
I do not know either of the stores you are planning on going too, as I have not been to them.  Each PAH and MA are different, so if it was me I would look in the nearest to home first, then move onto the other store and take a look prior to my final decision.  If this is not possible, I personally would go to the store with the most fighters 
wink.png
  If you can get a Plakat, as they are generally smaller, and as already stated I find them stronger.
 
As MS stated, pictures, pictures, pictures, are a must.  In fact, take your camera with you and also photograph any other fish, especially Bettas, that you liked but did not buy, we like to see them in Betta Resistance is Futile, so feel free to add to that topic any "rejects" 
yes.gif

 
Happy shopping ...
 
eaglesaquarium said:
 


I believe that is what they do here too, but the LFS said that the Oxygen jet can be quite strong entering the bag!  All mine have been fine without it.

 
 
That's crazy.  Not saying it may not be true, but I've never seen the water even ripple when they do it with my fish.  Certainly if you are bringing the fish right home and your local, there's not a need.  But, my LFS all do it anyway.  My 'not so local' LFS is 2 hours away.  I'm glad they do it, but even then its not really necessary for even the 2 hour drive.  But, why not be safe, rather than sorry?
wink.png

 
Yup 
yes.gif

 


Thanks but I'm having a bit of a problem at the moment; I did my big water change - about 80%, wiped down the tank, put some Tetra Aqua Safe in there and chucked a few Evolution Pure Balls to get clear water, re-arranged all my decor yesterday and thought I'd best put my heater down as it was sitting at 30 degrees for cycling.
 
But.
 
It won't go down. It's the Fluval E series 50w heater and there's a little orange lever that you're supposed to push to the left to decrease the temp and the right to up it. Pushing it right still works but to the left has no effect now. So my tank is now 29.5% and I think that might be too hot to put the fish in?????
 
Otherwise, I could buy a new heater when I go to buy the fish, but if I take it home with me, I don't know how long it will take to decrease the temperature if I unplug the Fluval and stick the new one in, how long will it take to drop the water temp to 26degrees which I understand is a desirable temp or do I unplug the Fluval before I leave to go and buy the fish but in that case, how long will it take to heat the water with the new one when I get back as the temp in the tank will drop right down whist I'm out.
 
Of course, Hagen isn't even open on weekends to call them and ask how to fix it; irresponsible I'd say when their products are responsible for keeping tanks at a temp suitable to keep fish alive that no-one is there to help on the weekend.
 
Iwantsomefish said:
Thanks but I'm having a bit of a problem at the moment; I did my big water change - about 80%, wiped down the tank, put some Tetra Aqua Safe in there and chucked a few Evolution Pure Balls to get clear water, re-arranged all my decor yesterday and thought I'd best put my heater down as it was sitting at 30 degrees for cycling.

 

 
 
But.
 
It won't go down. It's the Fluval E series 50w heater and there's a little orange lever that you're supposed to push to the left to decrease the temp and the right to up it. Pushing it right still works but to the left has no effect now. So my tank is now 29.5% and I think that might be too hot to put the fish in?
sad2.gif

 
Otherwise, I could buy a new heater when I go to buy the fish, but if I take it home with me, I don't know how long it will take to decrease the temperature if I unplug the Fluval and stick the new one in, how long will it take to drop the water temp to 26degrees which I understand is a desirable temp or do I unplug the Fluval before I leave to go and buy the fish but in that case, how long will it take to heat the water with the new one when I get back as the temp in the tank will drop right down whist I'm out.
 
Of course, Hagen isn't even open on weekends to call them and ask how to fix it; irresponsible I'd say when their products are responsible for keeping tanks at a temp suitable to keep fish alive that no-one is there to help on the weekend.
 
Poor you, not having much luck are you.
 
Certainly that is too hot for the fish, it is just over 85oF, and I tend to keep my fish at about 78-80oF.  Also, with a heater that is not regulating there is a danger that it will not stabilize properly.  That said, how long has it been at this temp?  Did you change it overnight i.e. has it had time to regulate to the new setting?
 
I use these heaters, SuperFish Nano Heater Length 17cm 50W (via Ark Stores, very quick delivery) for the majority of my Betta tanks, and have only ever had one faulty one (out of about six+, sorry lost count), which was replaced immediately.  I believe that MA often sell them, but they are a bit more pricey with them.  I would always recommend you have a spare heater as a back up anyway.
 
Yours is obviously still under guarantee so I would deal with this first thing Monday, and get them to send you a replacement ASAP.  Do not return the old one until the new one arrives, as you need something to keep the water warm.
 
Personally, I would recommend you wait to get your fish.  You need to be 100% sure that the thermostat on any heater is regulating properly, or your lovely new fish may well be lost shortly after purchase.  I always test a new heater for at least 48 hours, once the ideal temperature is reached, to check it is regulating properly.
 
Sorry to say this, but you do not want to waste your money, or the fishes lives.  Hang in there, yet again, you will be rewarded.
 
In the meantime, call MA and ask when they generally get their fish deliveries?  Ask what Betta tail types they get and also ask them when their next lot of Bettas will be arriving?  That is when you can get the pick of the best i.e. go and see them as soon as you can, or be at the door on the first day of their new Bettas being put up for sale.  My local MA know my weakness now and are bringing in lots of lovely Bettas to tempt me with, not sure if this is now happening across the MA stores i.e. good quality Bettas?
 

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