CrustyOnEastCoast
Fish Fanatic
So here are my tap water stats:
Ammonia: 1.5 to 2.0 ppm (from the Chloramines probably)
Ph: 8.0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 0-5ppm
There are 3 months out of the year when the municipal water company uses
only chlorine and not chloramines to treat the water. I imagine during those months
my tap water ammonia might register as 0ppm. I compared my test results against what the
water company claims is in the water. Their claims/test results are somewhat lower than
my results but not a lot.
I am currently running a fully stocked 5 U.S. gallon aquarium, using purchased RO water with added minerals
(Seachem Replenish). It is working wonderfully, and the RO water is not that expensive for such a small aquarium.
However, in the next year or so, I want to get a 30 U.S. gallon aquarium. I won't use purchased RO Water
for that due to the expense.
Following are some options that I DON'T want to do for the 30 gallon:
I don't want to use my tap water
- Proper dechlorinators will break down the chloramines and change the free ammonia to ammonium .. BUT ..
- ammonium is still somewhat harmful to fish (I have heard, true?)
- The ammonium will revert back to ammonia in about 24 hours (if not consumed by the
healthy bacteria) but probably quicker for me because the Ph is so high. Also, no way to
really tell how much time I have .. and can't control.
- The ammonium added from the water change is quite simply an extra load on the biological
filtration, the exact opposite of what a water change is for, and it
interrupts the carefully established balance (almost like adding several new fish at once!!)
- I have been advised that I can just do frequent, very small water changes. In theory,
this option would probably work fine .. BUT ...
- I don't want the hassle of having to do multiple water changes each week
- It will be difficult to clean my gravel .. I will only be able to do very
small bits at a time and I will have to keep careful track of what sections are
uncleaned all the time
- Perhaps most importantly, I will have no emergency supply of clean water that I can
use if I experience an ammonia spike
I don't want to buy and use an RO unit
- I have heard that you have to keep the RO unit running all the time (even if you don't need the water)
so that the membrane doesn't dry out, true? I would only need the pure water once a week for the water change. So this option seems very wasteful.
Following is an option I AM considering:
Retire my 5 gallon tank and use it as a water conditioner:
- Remove all plants, decorations, gravel, etc., leave just heater and filter
- Tweak filter so that it just performs biological filtration
- Feed the 5 gallon aquarium with a set ammount of ammonia each day to keep bacteria colony flourishing
When I need to do my water changes I will:
- The night before, I will replace all the water in the 5 gallon tank (to eliminate Nitrates)
- Feed 5 gallon tank with some ammonia (that will all be consumed, nitrites too, the following day).
- Use the water in the 5 gallon tank for the water change in the 30 gallon tank
(amounts to a little under a 20% water change) and then replenish the 5 gallon tank for next time
Just posting this for the sake of sharing .. but also wondering what other people think and what
other ideas people have or have used?
By the way, I have yet to meet anybody else that has an ammonia reading of 1.5 to 2.0ppm! (API liquid master
test kit). The closest I have seen is 1.0ppm, so unfortunately, I guess not too many people will be able to relate to me.
Ammonia: 1.5 to 2.0 ppm (from the Chloramines probably)
Ph: 8.0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 0-5ppm
There are 3 months out of the year when the municipal water company uses
only chlorine and not chloramines to treat the water. I imagine during those months
my tap water ammonia might register as 0ppm. I compared my test results against what the
water company claims is in the water. Their claims/test results are somewhat lower than
my results but not a lot.
I am currently running a fully stocked 5 U.S. gallon aquarium, using purchased RO water with added minerals
(Seachem Replenish). It is working wonderfully, and the RO water is not that expensive for such a small aquarium.
However, in the next year or so, I want to get a 30 U.S. gallon aquarium. I won't use purchased RO Water
for that due to the expense.
Following are some options that I DON'T want to do for the 30 gallon:
I don't want to use my tap water
- Proper dechlorinators will break down the chloramines and change the free ammonia to ammonium .. BUT ..
- ammonium is still somewhat harmful to fish (I have heard, true?)
- The ammonium will revert back to ammonia in about 24 hours (if not consumed by the
healthy bacteria) but probably quicker for me because the Ph is so high. Also, no way to
really tell how much time I have .. and can't control.
- The ammonium added from the water change is quite simply an extra load on the biological
filtration, the exact opposite of what a water change is for, and it
interrupts the carefully established balance (almost like adding several new fish at once!!)
- I have been advised that I can just do frequent, very small water changes. In theory,
this option would probably work fine .. BUT ...
- I don't want the hassle of having to do multiple water changes each week
- It will be difficult to clean my gravel .. I will only be able to do very
small bits at a time and I will have to keep careful track of what sections are
uncleaned all the time
- Perhaps most importantly, I will have no emergency supply of clean water that I can
use if I experience an ammonia spike
I don't want to buy and use an RO unit
- I have heard that you have to keep the RO unit running all the time (even if you don't need the water)
so that the membrane doesn't dry out, true? I would only need the pure water once a week for the water change. So this option seems very wasteful.
Following is an option I AM considering:
Retire my 5 gallon tank and use it as a water conditioner:
- Remove all plants, decorations, gravel, etc., leave just heater and filter
- Tweak filter so that it just performs biological filtration
- Feed the 5 gallon aquarium with a set ammount of ammonia each day to keep bacteria colony flourishing
When I need to do my water changes I will:
- The night before, I will replace all the water in the 5 gallon tank (to eliminate Nitrates)
- Feed 5 gallon tank with some ammonia (that will all be consumed, nitrites too, the following day).
- Use the water in the 5 gallon tank for the water change in the 30 gallon tank
(amounts to a little under a 20% water change) and then replenish the 5 gallon tank for next time
Just posting this for the sake of sharing .. but also wondering what other people think and what
other ideas people have or have used?
By the way, I have yet to meet anybody else that has an ammonia reading of 1.5 to 2.0ppm! (API liquid master
test kit). The closest I have seen is 1.0ppm, so unfortunately, I guess not too many people will be able to relate to me.