My First Water Test, How Did I Do?

it's worth mentioning as well that nitrate test results are always dodgy. the technology needed to test accuratley just isn't available to the average aquarist. The test results should be viewed more as an indication of the level rather than an accurate reading and you should always follow the instructions very accuratley even if they seem quite onerous.

ITHURTZ: As Miss Wiggle stated, the API test kit for nitrates can indeed be dodgy, and I've also found the strip tests very undependable. If you get the API test kit, read the instructions I got from API that I posted a while back:

http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=180830&hl=

As I found, even if your test kit is new, the solution # 2 of the nitrate test can settle out pretty hard on the bottom of the bottle. Simple shaking may not dislodge this settled out reagent. I now bang my plastic bottle a few times on a hard surface and shake it for a few minutes to ensure that I'm getting a good nitrate reading.
 
ITHURTZ said:
How will I have stocking problems with these fish in a 250gal?!! I am assuming when they are all full grown correct?
Dude, read my posts. Incompatible fish are incompatible fish in a 55 gallon or a 250 gallon, and I didn't even mention barb compatibility as they're tropical but they'll have the same trouble with the fantails as the commons. At that size, your fish will likely experience stunting in the 55 gallon if they haven't already.

Looks to me like you aren't going to change your stocking no matter what anyone tells you though. :/
 
Fish are growing n ot stunting, and no I wont change my stocking unless I see 1 fish trying to constantly kill the other fish.
 
ithurtz >>>>>>>>>>>> knows it all - people

otherwise why post - get opinions, ask for advice when all we get is childish remarks!!!

period
 
I didnt ask for comments on my fish. This is about water testing

Got a API kit today and some acid.

Did a 25% water change and here are the results
Nitrate 10
Nitrite 0
PH 7.4
Ammonia I still got .25. Im not good at the ammonia color shades. It looked like 0, but kinda didnt. So instead of just making it 0 I did .25 just in case.

Iv also came to conclude that going from 8.4 ph well water to a 7.4 ph might take .3ml of muratic acid per gallon to make it happen or 16.5ml for 55 gallons. No one quote me on it as I want to do a more indepth 100% accurate test.

I forgot to add. I went from 8.4 to 6.4-6.8 with .61ml per gallon with acid
 
If there's any hint of greenness at all, it's probably .25. If you've added anything to tie up ammonia in the past, that non-toxic form will still give a reading in the API test. The API test really gives total ammonia. One of the API ammonia test solutions raises the pH to 12, which frees up all of the ammonia. I have a test by Seachem that I use when cycling and have added AmmoLock - it will test for both free (toxic) and total ammonia. A while back I had a reading of 3ppm ammonia with the API test, but 0 free ammonia with the Seachem test. Other than that trace of ammonia (if it's actually free ammonia) your readings look good.
 
The ammonia test tube looked more yellow, not close to green. SO I guess I am in good water then, sweet!
 

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