My Angelfish just died....

[Byron]

Something else not yet mentioned...the combination of white skirt tetras with angelfish. This tetra is the same species as the original black skirt, and they are known to enjoy harassing sedate fish like angelfish. All cichlids are sedate, so before any dwarf cichlid is decided, I would suggest removing the white skirts. Past trouble with fin nipping may not have been physically evident, but introducing a new fish into this tank might set it off. Plus there is the chemical signals, allomones, all fish release that are read by other species (pheromones are chemical signals read by fish in that species) and fish can suffer stress from these, unseen by us (assuming no physical follow-through by the tetras) until the fish "dies."

Turning just to the question of a group of cories, yes, this will work but we do need to pin down the source water parameters (GH especially, pH worth knowing too) and temperature is the other parameter that needs to be considered depending upon what fish you consider...the cories do not like heat, so 75-76-77F (25-26C) is as high as it should be long-term for cories, and most shoaling species will appreciate this too...but some cichlids will not.

 

[Ravenes]

Something else not yet mentioned...the combination of white skirt tetras with angelfish. This tetra is the same species as the original black skirt, and they are known to enjoy harassing sedate fish like angelfish. All cichlids are sedate, so before any dwarf cichlid is decided, I would suggest removing the white skirts. Past trouble with fin nipping may not have been physically evident, but introducing a new fish into this tank might set it off. Plus there is the chemical signals, allomones, all fish release that are read by other species (pheromones are chemical signals read by fish in that species) and fish can suffer stress from these, unseen by us (assuming no physical follow-through by the tetras) until the fish "dies."

Turning just to the question of a group of cories, yes, this will work but we do need to pin down the source water parameters (GH especially, pH worth knowing too) and temperature is the other parameter that needs to be considered depending upon what fish you consider...the cories do not like heat, so 75-76-77F (25-26C) is as high as it should be long-term for cories, and most shoaling species will appreciate this too...but some cichlids will not.

So what centerpiece fish should I add?

 

[Byron]

So what centerpiece fish should I add?

We must pin down the GH first. But I will mention that "centrepiece" fish when it refers to a larger solitary fish as you seem to be thinking, is not easy in small (by comparison) tanks with shoaling fish swimming about.

While I'm here, I forgot to mention previously when discussing the cories that the entire intended group should be added together, at the same time. All shoaling fish use this trait for safety, and usually more, but "safety in numbers" is certainly present in their thinking. So when a group are moved to a new environment, the more of them there are the faster they will settle down, and that means less stress and thus less chance of ich breaking out, or other problems. Also, they will be of less interest to the existing fish in the tank so less chance of trouble from that source. If the tank is established, there will be no cycling/mini-cycling issues because the bacteria will easily be able to deal with the additional ammonia (or live plants will if they are present, even better).

 

[Ravenes]

We must pin down the GH first. But I will mention that "centrepiece" fish when it refers to a larger solitary fish as you seem to be thinking, is not easy in small (by comparison) tanks with shoaling fish swimming about.

While I'm here, I forgot to mention previously when discussing the cories that the entire intended group should be added together, at the same time. All shoaling fish use this trait for safety, and usually more, but "safety in numbers" is certainly present in their thinking. So when a group are moved to a new environment, the more of them there are the faster they will settle down, and that means less stress and thus less chance of ich breaking out, or other problems. Also, they will be of less interest to the existing fish in the tank so less chance of trouble from that source. If the tank is established, there will be no cycling/mini-cycling issues because the bacteria will easily be able to deal with the additional ammonia (or live plants will if they are present, even better).

Thx Byron for the help, just wondering how would I test the water? What should I use? I was going to use test strips. That okay?

 

[itiwhetu]

Angels like tall tanks. But cory's do best in long tanks. Cory's go to the surface for air and tall tanks are sometimes just to high for them. Like Byron says water parameters please.

 

[Essjay]

Look on your water provider's website for hardness. You need a number rather than some vague words. Hardness (GH) does not usually vary much so the GH of your tap water should be the same as the tank.

 

[GuppyBreeder180604]

Angels like tall tanks. But cory's do best in long tanks. Cory's go to the surface for air and tall tanks are sometimes just to high for them. Like Byron says water parameters please.

they need taller than normal tanks because they are tall fish thanks to their long dorsal and ventral fins, but that doesn't mean they will enjoy a cylindrical tank for example as it leaves no swimming space, they need a tank that is long and wide for them to properly school on while being tall enough to prevent them from having their dorsal fins sticking out of the water or they ventral fins from touching the substrate/hard scape

 

[Ravenes]

My water hardness is 123 mg/l

 

[Byron]

My water hardness is 123 mg/l

The mg/l is equivalent to ppm (parts per million) which is one unit the hobby uses, along with degrees H (dH). And 123 ppm equates to 6.8 dGH, rounded up to 7 dGH. This is soft/moderately soft water, and not at all bad generally.

The cories will be fine. Avoid all livebearers and fish requiring hard water. Gourami are now an option, the more common medium sized species like pearls, honey. Avoid the varieties derived from Trichopodus trichopterus--blue, gold, cosby, marble, 3-spot, opaline; this spcies is one of the most aggressive of the medium-sized gourami and frequently real trouble.

 

[Ravenes]

The mg/l is equivalent to ppm (parts per million) which is one unit the hobby uses, along with degrees H (dH). And 123 ppm equates to 6.8 dGH, rounded up to 7 dGH. This is soft/moderately soft water, and not at all bad generally.

The cories will be fine. Avoid all livebearers and fish requiring hard water. Gourami are now an option, the more common medium sized species like pearls, honey. Avoid the varieties derived from Trichopodus trichopterus--blue, gold, cosby, marble, 3-spot, opaline; this spcies is one of the most aggressive of the medium-sized gourami and frequently real trouble.

So should I set up a pair of honey gouramis? And maybe six corys?

 

[Byron]

So should I set up a pair of honey gouramis? And maybe six corys?

I would suggest a trio of the Honey Goourami, or perhaps five. Two females to one male, or three females to two males. This is not a large-sized gourami, and if you want "centrepiece" you need something that will seem to provide it.

Now, as for cories...shoaling fish, being fish that must have a group of their own to be in good condition and health, will always be better the more there are. This hobby has long had "guidelines" for many things, including numbers for shoaling fish, but such guides are basically an attempt to ensure more than a couple fish are acquired, not as the goal. With cories, a group of 12-15 would be much better. You have the space, and you can mix species, though it is best to have a few of each species. And again, acquire all of them together if you are acquiring all of them from one tank or store, or can get them on the same day from different stores.

 

[Ravenes]

I would suggest a trio of the Honey Goourami, or perhaps five. Two females to one male, or three females to two males. This is not a large-sized gourami, and if you want "centrepiece" you need something that will seem to provide it.

Now, as for cories...shoaling fish, being fish that must have a group of their own to be in good condition and health, will always be better the more there are. This hobby has long had "guidelines" for many things, including numbers for shoaling fish, but such guides are basically an attempt to ensure more than a couple fish are acquired, not as the goal. With cories, a group of 12-15 would be much better. You have the space, and you can mix species, though it is best to have a few of each species. And again, acquire all of them together if you are acquiring all of them from one tank or store, or can get them on the same day from different stores.

So I have six white skirts already in my tank and I’m supposed to get 3 honey Gourami. And 12 corydoras?

 

[Ravenes]

How many dwarf Gourami should I stock in a thirty gallon tall if I had six white skirts in there. How many corydoras should I add?

 

[Essjay]

I would not add any gourami to a tank with white skirts. As already mentioned they are nippy fish and I wouldn't trust them with gouramis.

I would not get dwarf gouramis even when there are no nippy fish. They are often infected with an incurable disease by the time they arrive at the store. Another problem with dwarfs is that many stores sell only males, and these are quite aggressive fish so only one male per tank. Females are plain silver-grey and stores don't sell them because "they are plain and boring and no-one will buy them"
Honey gouramis were mentioned as a possibility, but there's still the white skirt issue. Honeys don't have the same issues as dwarfs.

 

[itiwhetu]

As a thought, why not just increase the number of White Skirts and have a single species tank.