I wouldn't use it myself.thankyou so much everyone for your replys i shall start doing water changes and clean my filter with the tank water p.s shall i stop using the filteration booster chemical?
It is quite important that you start with *small* water changes (very often) and gradually increase them into fewer *very large* ones. Small water changes will not help much with ammonia, but will gradually get your fish used to your tap water parameters (which may or may not be different to tank water, but it's impossible to know without test kits). The large water changes will then help remove the ammonia.
For example, a 90% water change removes 90% of the ammonia, while a 10% water change would remove only 10% of the ammonia, but it would take 22* 10% water changes to remove 90% of the ammonia.
So, my suggestion would be something like this:
First water change: 10%
1 hour later: 15%
1 hour later: 20%
1 hour later: 25%
1-2 hours later: 30%
1-2 hours later: 40%
1-3 hours later: 50%
1-6 hours later: 65%
1-12 hours later: 85%
every 12 hours: 95%
…once you have a liquid test kit for ammonia and nitrite, 95% every time the reading looks close to 0.25 ppm. If you plan to go to bed or work, do a 95% water change before you do and make sure you double dose dechlorinator. If both test kits show 0 ppm, you don't need to water change. You should probably start by testing every 6 hours or more regularly, and eventually drop off to 12 hours. In 3-5 weeks, you will probably need to test only once per day. In 8-12 weeks, your testing will probably drop off to once per week, after 6 months, you should only need to test in case of a problem.
Edit: water changes are a LOT less stressful to fish than ammonia and nitrite.