Methods for raising gH/kH

[Banafish]

Ok so my pH took a large swing again, yesterday when I tested it was 6.6 right, but today it became 7.6 - I did not do anything, so why did this happen?

My tap water has a pH of 6.0

 

[Colin_T]

If the tap water has a lot of carbon dioxide (CO2) in it, then after the water is aerated for a few hours the pH can go up. To test this, take a sample of tap water and test the pH. Write the results down. Leave the bucket of water to stand for 24 hours and test it again. If the pH goes up, then the water has a lot of CO2 in due to the oxygen and nitrogen being forced out when the water is put in the pipes. Or you are getting ground water that hasn't been exposed to the air before it is put in the pipes.

 

[Banafish]

If the tap water has a lot of carbon dioxide (CO2) in it, then after the water is aerated for a few hours the pH can go up. To test this, take a sample of tap water and test the pH. Write the results down. Leave the bucket of water to stand for 24 hours and test it again. If the pH goes up, then the water has a lot of CO2 in due to the oxygen and nitrogen being forced out when the water is put in the pipes. Or you are getting ground water that hasn't been exposed to the air before it is put in the pipes.

Ok thanks, I will try it and see what happens.

 

[Byron]

Again, you need to determine the actual pH of your source (tap) water. Either out-gas the CO2 as I and Colin mentioned, or find out from the water authority. Until you know the actual pH, you are stumbling in the dark because pH fluctuations can be due to several factors.

 

[Banafish]

If the tap water has a lot of carbon dioxide (CO2) in it, then after the water is aerated for a few hours the pH can go up. To test this, take a sample of tap water and test the pH. Write the results down. Leave the bucket of water to stand for 24 hours and test it again. If the pH goes up, then the water has a lot of CO2 in due to the oxygen and nitrogen being forced out when the water is put in the pipes. Or you are getting ground water that hasn't been exposed to the air before it is put in the pipes.

Ok so I’ve left the water for more than 24 hours, now the pH reads like a 7.0

While my tank water is reading 7.8 for some reason.

 

[Byron]

Ok so I’ve left the water for more than 24 hours, now the pH reads like a 7.0

While my tank water is reading 7.8 for some reason.

Can you verify the tap water pH with the water authority?

Calcareous substances in an aquarium can increase the pH. Things like the substrate, rock, etc.

 

[Banafish]

Can you verify the tap water pH with the water authority?

Calcareous substances in an aquarium can increase the pH. Things like the substrate, rock, etc.

I get my water from my own rainwater source in the forest so I don’t think there is anybody I can contact - it is a private water source

Also I use Flourite Dark as substrate and only have a few plants + driftwood. Could the recent algae bloom be related to this?

Thanks!

 

[Byron]

I get my water from my own rainwater source in the forest so I don’t think there is anybody I can contact - it is a private water source

Also I use Flourite Dark as substrate and only have a few plants + driftwood. Could the recent algae bloom be related to this?

Thanks!

The substrate (Flourite) may be the reason or part of it for the pH fluctuating.

Algae bloom...there seems to be some over on the far right, is this what you are referring to?

 

[Banafish]

The substrate (Flourite) may be the reason or part of it for the pH fluctuating.

Algae bloom...there seems to be some over on the far right, is this what you are referring to?

Ok so how would I be able to prevent that?

There is just a lot of hair algae (I think) on the leaves of the plants and some on the glass, the photo resolution isn't too good so you might not be able to see it in the photo.

 

[Byron]

Ok so how would I be able to prevent that?

If this refers to the pH fluctuation and if it is due to the substrate, you cannot do anything about it--other than remove the substrate and replace with inert sand or fine gravel. One of the issues with plant substrates is how some can affect water parameters, or some leech ammonia or nitrate. That is how they are.

As for the algae, it is certainly not bad, but yes, I can see some. Problem algae regardless of the species of algae is caused by an imbalance in the light/nutrients. It can involve the light intensity and duration (and spectrum), or the addition of plant additives like fertilizers, or both.

How long is the light on every day, and is it on a timer so it is consistent?

Are you using any fertilizers (other than the substrate)?

How often and what volume are water changes?

 

[Banafish]

If this refers to the pH fluctuation and if it is due to the substrate, you cannot do anything about it--other than remove the substrate and replace with inert sand or fine gravel. One of the issues with plant substrates is how some can affect water parameters, or some leech ammonia or nitrate. That is how they are.

As for the algae, it is certainly not bad, but yes, I can see some. Problem algae regardless of the species of algae is caused by an imbalance in the light/nutrients. It can involve the light intensity and duration (and spectrum), or the addition of plant additives like fertilizers, or both.

How long is the light on every day, and is it on a timer so it is consistent?

Are you using any fertilizers (other than the substrate)?

How often and what volume are water changes?

I try to keep the light on for 9 hours a day, I use Flourish COmprehensive Supplement 2x a week (dosing 1 ml each time, my tank is 52l), I used to do 50% WC 2x a week, but I was advised to not do water changes during a silent cycle.

In regards to the substrate (if I kept it), what could I do to prevent big fluctuations during water changes? The pH holds at about ~7.8 until I do a water change where it drops dramatically. My kH is at 2 dkh, would increasing only the kH help (such as by using wonder shells, which say they only increase kH)?

Also, will crushed oyster shells raise pH if the pH is alkaline (7.8), and will it raise kH? Thanks!

 

[Byron]

I try to keep the light on for 9 hours a day, I use Flourish COmprehensive Supplement 2x a week (dosing 1 ml each time, my tank is 52l), I used to do 50% WC 2x a week, but I was advised to not do water changes during a silent cycle.

In regards to the substrate (if I kept it), what could I do to prevent big fluctuations during water changes? The pH holds at about ~7.8 until I do a water change where it drops dramatically. My kH is at 2 dkh, would increasing only the kH help (such as by using wonder shells, which say they only increase kH)?

Also, will crushed oyster shells raise pH if the pH is alkaline (7.8), and will it raise kH? Thanks!

I would reduce the light to 8 hours, and then 7 if it still needs it. Wait a week between each. Use a timer if you don't already so the time is consistent. If the two doses are full as recommended, try just one. Depending upon your conditioner...if using the API Tap Water Conditioner you can dose the Flourish after the W/C. If using Prime, wait 2 days, as Prime has some chemical that prevents plants from assimilating metal nutrients.

Using any GH/KH stuff depends upon the fish. The Bristlenose is a very soft water fish, but a slight increase should not harm it, but I personally would not. Once you start messing with parameters it can get complicated. Do you intend other fish in this tank? Crushed coral is not a good buffer, something like dolomite is. I had 2-3 tablespoons in a nylon mesh bag in the canister filter of my 90g several years ago and it maintained a very steady pH of 6.4 (tap water was below 5 then). But after a couple years, I stopped, there was no reason.

 

[Banafish]

I would reduce the light to 8 hours, and then 7 if it still needs it. Wait a week between each. Use a timer if you don't already so the time is consistent. If the two doses are full as recommended, try just one. Depending upon your conditioner...if using the API Tap Water Conditioner you can dose the Flourish after the W/C. If using Prime, wait 2 days, as Prime has some chemical that prevents plants from assimilating metal nutrients.

Using any GH/KH stuff depends upon the fish. The Bristlenose is a very soft water fish, but a slight increase should not harm it, but I personally would not. Once you start messing with parameters it can get complicated. Do you intend other fish in this tank? Crushed coral is not a good buffer, something like dolomite is. I had 2-3 tablespoons in a nylon mesh bag in the canister filter of my 90g several years ago and it maintained a very steady pH of 6.4 (tap water was below 5 then). But after a couple years, I stopped, there was no reason.

Well since my pH is so high, I was thinking about keeping high pH fishes instead, like some guppies, otocinclus, and some snails. For the bristlenose I would have to alter the pH while for the guppies etc I would have to increase kH and maybe decrease pH a little bit. Which do you recommend?

 

[Colin_T]

If you are using rain water, then avoid fishes that need minerals (livebearers, rainbowfish, Rift Lake cichlids). Clean rain water should have a pH of 7.0, with 0 GH and 0 KH.

Because there is no minerals in rain water, the pH can drop very quickly.

If the pH in the aquarium is going up over time, then something in the tank is raising it. Take a couple of handfuls of gravel and put them in a bucket if water with a neutral pH (pH 7.0). Leave the gravel in the bucket of water for a week and see what the pH does. If the pH goes up, then the gravel is causing it to rise.

If the gravel doesn't cause the pH to go up in the bucket of water, then try different items from the aquarium until you find the one causing the pH to rise.

 

[Banafish]

If you are using rain water, then avoid fishes that need minerals (livebearers, rainbowfish, Rift Lake cichlids). Clean rain water should have a pH of 7.0, with 0 GH and 0 KH.

Because there is no minerals in rain water, the pH can drop very quickly.

If the pH in the aquarium is going up over time, then something in the tank is raising it. Take a couple of handfuls of gravel and put them in a bucket if water with a neutral pH (pH 7.0). Leave the gravel in the bucket of water for a week and see what the pH does. If the pH goes up, then the gravel is causing it to rise.

If the gravel doesn't cause the pH to go up in the bucket of water, then try different items from the aquarium until you find the one causing the pH to rise.

Ok, thanks. Do you have any recommendations for what fish I can keep?