Lowering Ph Naturally

KrystaK

Fish Addict
Joined
Jul 24, 2011
Messages
877
Reaction score
1
Location
CA
My tap water is extremely basic at 8 or so on the scale. I've read that most fish like slightly acidic water, around 6.5, or neutral at 7.
I want to lower my tank's pH to be more ideal for my fish, but I don't want to have to dose daily with chemicals to keep it lower.
Does anyone have any suggestions for me?
I think I read that bog wood can lower pH, but I'm not certain
 
Well, what fish have you got first? Generally, a lot of fish aren't really bothered... and others would react worse to having the ph lowered.
 
I have bogwood, it doesn't lower the pH for me. My pH is skyhigh, it is around 9 and my fish are thriving :dunno:
 
Have a look at what your fish PH is recommended to be but as stated, if your fish are throving then dont fix what aint broke!!! .
That aside, i use peat moss in my external filter to lower PH which works well. Just ensure you have an API liquid test kit so you can monitor the change in PH
 
While I don't use CO2 myself, cornclose makes a crucial observation here: You NEVER, EVER change pH directly without FIRST changing carbonate hardness.

If you don't know what carbonate hardness is, you shouldn't be playing with the pH of your aquarium? Hmm… how to put this more clearly…? The pH is intrinsically unstable, and if you push it down (e.g., by adding a bunch of bogwood) it will slowly bounce back up again if the carbonate hardness is high. Or conversely, if you add a bunch of bogwood to soft water, the pH will keep dropping lower and lower until the next water change. Needless to say, uncontrolled, large-scale pH changes are bad for your fish.

If you want an acidic aquarium, your job is to FIRST lower the carbonate hardness and then SECONDLY use a commercial "Discus Buffer" mix (usually based on phosphoric acid) to fix the pH at 6 or 6.5, depending on your requirements. Alternatively, you can VERY CAREFULLY dose CO2 proportional to your carbonate hardness to maintain a more-or-less steady pH at a given value. This is harder work to do, but viable in lightly-stocked, well-planted tanks.

In any case, if you add the "pH-down" product to a hard water aquarium first, without lowering the carbonate hardness, you'll [a] use up masses of the pH-down potion and create unstable water conditions.

Cheers, Neale

Reduce KH and inject CO2.
 
Well I wouldn't say my fish are thriving. My live bearers haven't bred in a month, which is nice, but it also makes me think they aren't exactly thriving.
So while they aren't dying left, right and center, they also aren't breeding more than rabbits like they should be.

I'll do some research, as I'm not very familiar with kH and how it relates to pH, I've heard of it but never really paid it any attention;
Would it be worth it to pick up a kH/gH test kit just so I know the exact levels in my water or is there a way I can associate my kH levels through the pH level?
If I diluted the kH of my tank using RO water in my water changes (Slowly increasing the RO content to say half and half over the period of a month - so 4 water changes) and then added some additional Bog wood to my tank to lower the pH once the kH was low enough would that perhaps solve or at least begin to solve my pH height issue?
I want my tank to be as ideal as possible with minimal chemical use :nod:
 
A stable pH is better than fluxuating it to make it ideal. I have killed a tank of fix mucking around with the pH. If you fish are healthy and happy, don't change it.
 
Hi KrystaK. Most livebearers prefer harder, more alkaline water rather than acidic water. The addition of bog wood will have minimum effect on the levels. If you wanted to add it for decorative properties then go for it, but it won't alter the ph much if that is your aim. As stated, a constant is better than anything else.

To perk the livebearers up, try feeding high protein food such as bloodworm and prima and up the water changes.

Good luck!
 
KrystaK, your water sounds very similar to my local tap water, which I use with no "tinkering" in my tanks. My water is typically pH 8-8.2 out of the tap (lowers a bit in my tanks to 7.8-8 as I use a fair bit of bogwood); gH 13/14; kH 11.

My livebearers (Ilyodon xantusi, sourced after Neale's suggestion nearly two years ago) positively thrive, since they became sexually mature around Xmas 2011 they have had regular bi-monthly fry, thankfully each brood is of a managmeable size (max 17, typically ~10, but the females are still growing); the gestation period is a bit longer than more common livebearers; the parents can usually be safely kept even with newborns (especially females, I'm not sure either way if I saw a male eat a newborn several months ago).

Two years ago, when I was new to the hobby, in hindsight I was lucky enough to raise ~10 Pearl Danio youngsters and a bit later 1 of 3 Golden Wonder Killifish fry found amongst the mass of floating plants. Given these are both egg scatterers, I'm not entirely sure how the eggs hatched sucessfully in the Rio240, as I now led to believe (perhaps incorrectly?) that hard water like this should make the egg casing too thick for fry to break free and hatch. At the time I was using a carbon dioxide bubbler for the benefit of my fast growing plants, which did drop the pH to 7.2.-7.4, perhaps this made all the difference.

My Lionhead Cichlid pair challenge my understanding of egg scattering fish even further. Their first and second broods (14/ ~50) hatched in my bogwood laden Rio240, but even more surprisingly the third brood (of unknown real quantity, born in the presence of second brood who ate all but 4 of their sibling before I realised a third brood was even present) were born in my 620T which had virtually no bodwood to alter the water chemistry.

I often think about buying a RO unit and mixing it with some tap water, to get softer more neutral tank water with a lower base level of nitrates (typically 40-50ppm), for the benefit of some of my African riverine fish. Part of me would love see my group of Leopard Bushfish and Rainbow/Pastel Congo Tetra sucessfully produce offsping, while I would love provide my tank bred Beckford Pencilfish with more suitable water and even some sort of fry viable setup with some other softer water species. But like most things in life, it comes down to money, plus right now I know that whenever I need to do a massive water change I can simply fill my buckets with dechlorinated tap water and not worry about maintaining water chemistry stability in the tanks.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top