Low Tech Setup Question.

[NickAu]

I notice some people have problems with their tanks, Things like Algae, Plants not doing well, Water parameters out of whack and so on.
 
Then I look at my tanks and wonder what am I doing wrong or right for that matter to not have these issues, I will use my 2 foot tank as the example, But I treat the 6 foot and my 2 5 gallon cubes the same.
 
First up I know my tanks are are over grown jungle and not everyones taste, but thats the point they are over grown jungles yet I do nothing to them other than a 50% water change once a week, and the only thing I add is Easy Life Fluid Filter Media and Indian Almond Leaf.
 
PH. 7.0 to 7.2
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate  under 5 even after the water has been in the tank a week.
Kh/GH No idea other that its soft water.
Tank temp 26 deg C
 
I run a 2 tray canister filter, 1 tray is full of ceramic media, 1 tray of sponge, I do not use a the white floss to polish water.
 
The filter.
Biopro External Canister Filter 800 lph Including Media Aquarium
 
The Media

PremiumNood Ceramic Noodles 640g

 
The sponge, I got a block of it and cut it to fit in a tray, its about 4 inches thick and it takes up the ray.
http/aquariumfilterpros.com/store/category/sponge-filters/
 
The Light.

Beamswork HI-LUMEN 60 10,000K Fresh and Marine Water LED ..

Its actually to bright so I use plastic place mat and floating plants to dim the tank.

 
The video shows actual light level in the tank, There is a bit of current in the tank but it don't bother the Betta at all.
https/www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzgO_sNKcHo
 
Live stock.
1 Betta, Who rules the tank.
17 Kuhli Loaches ( I think )
2 Assassin snails.
No idea on Red Cherry Shrimp safe to say over 100
1 Bn Pleco about 2 to 3 inches long.
Unknown number of Malaysian Trumpet Snails, The Assassins seem to be doing a great job keeping them under control.
 
Plants.
Lots of Anubias assorted types
Blue Stricta
Crypts
Amazon SwordEchinodorus amazonicus.
Some new plant in the bottom left of the tank, LFS told me the name but I forgot.
 
Floating plants.
Duck weed.
Water sprite.
 
Substrate.
Pea Gravel.
 
Maintenance.
 
I change 50% of the water once a week and feed the fish thats it.
No Ferts
No CO2
I do not vacuum the substrate.
I let Indian Almond Leaf Rot in the tank.
If a plant sheds a leaf because it died, I do not bother removing it.
I don't remember the last time I cleaned the front glass from the inside, and I never touch the sides or back.
I only clean the filter when it starts making a noise because its no longer pumping water. And always find Shrimp happily living in the bottom of the canister, Its also how I found my first baby Kuhli Loach.
 
Am I just lucky or is there a method to my madness?

 

[Byron]

This illustrates just how different each individual aquarium can be, biologically.  I suppose you can call it lucky, in that you are saving money not having to use additives.  But I frequently write that water changes and fish foods can provide all necessary nutrients.  The issue is how much, and how much is needed by the specific plants.  But it can work, depending on the factors.
 
I presently have 8 tanks, all planted much the same (meaning, the same species in several tanks, and pretty much the same plant load), same type of lighting, same or close fish load and feedings, same weekly 50-60% water changes.  Very soft water, near zero GH/KH, and the pH is acidic.  Some tanks seem to need Flourish Comprehensive, some never get this but only iron or only trace, one gets nothing at all and the plants are like weeds (as in your photos), even better than the other tanks.  The point is, that there is no hard and fast rule or guide, because each aquarium is a unique biological system.
 
The fewer additives entering a tank with fish, the healthier will be the fish, so that too is lucky.
 
Byron.

 

[NickAu]

 
 But I frequently write that water changes and fish foods can provide all necessary nutrients.

Thats where I got my idea from, I read all your advice,

 

[AbbeysDad]

I'm 'old' in the hobby, but fairly new to a planted tank...but with a lot of reading and advice from my friend Byron, I'm having great success. I think it's all about balance. Balance of light to ferts to plant mass. High tech tanks use high light, lots of ferts and CO2 to promote the fastest (and sometimes extreme) plant growth. But in low tech tank with lower light and a bio-load that provides enough organic fertilizer, and appropriate water changes, plants can thrive with little or no chemical fixes. The plants may not grow as fast but may remain very healthy...and as Byron puts it, the less 'stuff' we put in the tank, the better it will be for the fish.
Looking at it differently, over fertilizing 'may' be good for the plants, but it's likely that this 'pollution' is not very good for the fish.
I think the tricky part is to have the appropriate light (intensity and photoperiod) and bio-load relative to the plant mass so the plants receive enough nutrition AND the water remains pure.
In theory, the heavily planted tank 'could' go longer (than otherwise) between partial water changes and filter maintenance and still present an excellent eco-system.

 

[NickAu]

.but with a lot of reading and advice from my friend Byron,

Got to love Byron's advice, He knows his stuff.
 
Unlike some.
 
On one forum a somebody suggests using salt as a preventative ( I teaspoon per gallon )

 
Salt FW Aq Art Hosking

Salt as a preventative is useless and dangerous. Soft water fish are affected by salt, some more than others. Hard water species such as livebearers tend to tolerate salt better. But except for specific treatment of a disease where salt is the best option (like ich, velvet, etc) it is best not to add salt to a freshwater fish aquarium. The so-called "preventative" levels sometimes suggested are completely useless, which makes the use of salt--which can and will debilitate many freshwater fish--pointless.

 

Methylene blue baths to help heal a Bettas fins, after he bit them yet there is no sign of infection or finrot.
 
In both cases all the fish needs is lots of clean dechlorinated warm ( 26 to 28c ) water and a good diet.