Lights Have Broken

[Fraoch]

Hi, we're going to order a new ballast, the old one doesnt look that great! The mains cable is cut off because my dad thought i wasnt keeping it and he was checking the inline switch. It looks easy enough to reattach though and the wiring should be ok to redo. The ballast is 180mm long, 42mm wide and 28mm deep.

 

[bodge99]

Hi,

The ballast here http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIDONIC-ATCO-2-x-30W-T8-HF-ELECTRONIC-BALLAST-/251195813706?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&hash=item3a7c6fef4a will be perfectly fine... The critical dimensions are the same or smaller than your existing one.

This one will be easy to fit.. all of the information that you need is written on the ballast case.

It would appear to have screw terminals, so even better!

A few suggestions:

Make sure that you reuse the strain relief grommet on the incoming mains cable (your picture No. 2). It makes the finished job look better and it reduces the chance of future damage to the cable insulation. If it needs to be replaced, then just look on Ebay.

As the lights are not going to be moved much, then I would fix the new ballast to the lower part of the top with adhesive. I've used silicone sealant before in similar situations. This makes it easy to remove in the future. This is the only situation where I wouldn't actually bolt it in.

When you've finished wiring and fixing the ballast, try and route the wires so they are not touching the ballast unnecessarily.
Separating wiring from an item that gets warm is just a good habit to get into. Just use common sense.

When making the connections to the ballast, make sure that you cut the wires back to clean, sound metal.. You will probably find that moisture has corroded the original ends somewhat.

When you have wired up the ballast, reattach the tubes and test before you reassemble everything. There's nothing worse than spending time putting your tank back together and finding that you still have a problem.. Make sure that you don't touch any wiring when the unit is powered up.

Sorry, I'm not trying to "teach granny to suck eggs"... just trying to offer some guidance if it is required.

If you need any further help, then just yell!

Regards,

Bodge99.

 

[Fraoch]

Sorry I havent replied before now, I have been waiting for the ballast in the mail, which has just arrived today!
But now we're having trouble wiring the tubes, because we have 6 connections on the ballast and 8 wires for the tubes?
Assuming that the two connections on the opposite end of the ballast are for the mains?

 

[bodge99]

Hello,

Happy to hear that you have your new ballast now.. Progress!

Can you provide a picture or two of the top of it, esp. showing the connectors and the wiring diagram.

If you can, then I'll talk you through connecting it up.

Did you get the ballast from Ebay?

Bodge99

Edit: I don't need pictures if the ballast is the same as shown in the Ebay link.

I'm writing something up that should help.

ttfn

Bodge99

 

[bodge99]

Hello again.

You are correct, the mains connects to 3 and 4. It doesn't matter which way round. Just ensure that the connection is made securely.. don't over tighten the screws and make sure that there are no loose strands of wire floating about.
I assume that you are O.K. with making the connections... If not then..

Strip off a couple of inches of insulation from either the live or neutral wires. Don't remove the insulation if possible, just leave it hanging off the end of the wire. Leave about an inch or so of bare strands showing.

Hold the untouched insulation with one hand, and the "hanging stub" of insulation in the other.

Now twist the stub of insulation in your fingers... just enough to twist the strands together "smoothly".

Now cut off the wire end, leaving the required length of bare metal (8mm of conductor).

Make the connection to the ballast... repeat with the second wire.

Doing it this way reduces the chance of sticking sharp wire strands in your finger... and leaves a nice square end on the wire.
You'll see what I mean when you do it.

Ballast connections:

I'd guess that you are OK here.. but just in case..

A couple of things to mention.. later (*)!

If you lie your lights on the floor... wiring exposed with the tubes horizontal.
You have 4 tube sockets ... top left, top right, bottom left and bottom right. Each socket has two wires (as you say, 8 wires in total).

Top right socket. Connect these to 13 and 14. It doesn't matter which way round.

Bottom right socket: Connect to 9 and 10.

Top left socket: Connect one of the wires to 12. It doesn't matter which one.
The other wire is connected to the other tube. (see later)

Bottom left socket: Connect one of the wires to 11. As before, either wire is fine.

You should now be left with 2 wires.. one from the top left, the other from the bottom left.

Use an insulated connector block to join these wires together. Please don't just "wrap the wires together and use a bit of tape".

* The wires from the tube sockets should be solid conductor. Keep the 2 wires the same length.. (within reason).
When stripping the insulation of these wires, be careful not to nick the solid conductor.. If (when) you do this, start over with both wires.

You don't need miles of spare wire coiled up after you've finished.. just enough to allow a few more terminations to be made in the future if required.

If you are using something like cable ties to tidy up the wiring, then don't tie the socket wiring to the incoming mains cable..

As far as is practical, route the socket wiring away from the ballast housing and especially the wiring connections on the ballast.
Common sense rules here!

Your lighting is now ready for testing. Assuming that the ballast is in its final position and the wiring is tidied up etc.
Refit the tubes and lie the unit back down on the floor.

Plug in and switch on... Don't forget any inline switch! (How do I know this ? ;>) ) Hopefully both tubes will light.. If so then you are nearly there!!

What I recommend is that you leave the lights on for 30 minutes or so. After this time, switch off and unplug.

Now **carefully** check the temperature of the ballast. Don't touch the wiring connections. Assume that the ballast is "red hot" and check accordingly. It's better to assume something is very hot when it isn't than find something burns you when you expect it to be cool.

You will probably find it slightly warm.

Now over to you to reassemble the light housing etc.

Apologies if this stuff is a waste of time for you.. I'm only trying to help!

Any problems or questions then just yell!

Good luck!

Bodge99.

 

[bodge99]

Hello,

Just a few more general notes for anyone else who is replacing a ballast.

Your ballast [assuming that it is (a). an electronic type i.e. no starter required or (b). not a cold cathode type (uses 1 wire per tube socket) ].

The connections referred to in the above post refer to the ballast shown in the two pictures below:

View attachment 68565

View attachment 68566

Your own ballast may have different numbering..
Just replace the numbering in the above post with your own. You will probably find a schematic of the wiring on the body of the ballast or in the ballast documentation (this may be available online).

If anyone is modding their lighting to use a dimmable ballast:

If you have fitted new tubes, then run the lights at maximum brightness for 30 - 60 minutes.
This ensures the even distribution of mercury within the tube.

Bodge99.

 

[Fraoch]

One more question, the connections on the ballast, do you just push the wire into the connections and push the top bit down or how is the connection between the wires and the ballast actually made?

 

[bodge99]

Hello,

Sorry, I thought that your ballast had screw connections.... no matter..

For the solid core wires from the lamp sockets:

Just strip off a length of insulation (a cm or so)... Cut the conductor to the length indicated on the ballast (probably about 8mm).
Push the wire horizontally into the connector. I'm guessing that you are referring to a spring loaded connector. You will feel a slight resistance as the conductor enters the connector. When the wire has fully entered the connector it should be held firmly. Give it a gentle tug to check this. Just make sure that you are connecting to the correct place!

If your connector is of a different type, then please get back to me.

Is your ballast the Ebay one I gave you?

I'll see if I can get the datasheet for this one.

Bodge99.

 

[bodge99]

Hello,

See the attached datasheet extract.

Does this match yours??

View attachment 68570

Bodge99.

 

[Fraoch]

thank you! Yes the one i bought was the one on ebay you showed me! That seems to be working...nearly there!

 

[bodge99]

Hello again,

Just for your information:

From the datasheet.

View attachment 68571

FYI The proper name for a fluorescent tube is "fluorescent lamp".

See... told you I was full of it!!

Bodge99

 

[Fraoch]

Well today we finally got the lights back up and running, yay! Thank you bodge for all your advice and help, would have taken me a lot, lot longer without you

 

[bodge99]

Hello,

Result!!

Glad to hear that everything is working now...

May your tubes be ever glowing (well, when they are switched on!!)

Happy to be of service..

Regards,

Bob K. (AKA Bodge99)