Lighting Question

[FlaNoob]

Question for all you lighting and planted tank guru's

From reading the posts on this and other forums the general consensus is farly consistant if you are planning a live planted tank ( which i am ) you need a number of things, but most important is Lighting.

The guidelines most seem to agree on are the following:

For a Light to medium planted tanks you need to achive a minimum of 2wpg
Substrate should be an approx 1cm layer of sand maintained via proper selection of tank inhabatants
lower substrate should be a flourite or laturite material.
Supplemntal Co2 will be needed and can be done via DIY means or commercial made equipment.

My questions are as follows:
Lighting: how does wattage figure into this as i assume the following: If you have say a 48" long tank and you need to develop say 150w for lighting you can get a pair of 24" fixtures with 2x38w ( 76w per fixture) w/T5 bulbs for a total of 152w. On the other hand if you get a single 48" fixture with the same 2 38w T5 bulbs the 48" fixture only gives you 76w. Now short of using a photometer, im not so sure there is all that much differance in light output, I trust someone here can point me in the direction i have made my error in thinking.

Substrate: what is or is ther a differance or advantage between flourite and laterite.
What is Eco-Complete? does it have another name(s) etc

Co2: What in the heck is this ladder thing that is constantly referred to? Links Pics etc would be helpfull

Just getting stated out again here, so bear with me.

 

[SuperColey1]

From reading the posts on this and other forums the general consensus is farly consistant if you are planning a live planted tank ( which i am ) you need a number of things, but most important is Lighting

Lighting is not the most important. You can grow under virtually any light. No necessity to get to a figure. The light however determines what you need to do to facilitate the growth the light pushes the plants at.

The guidelines most seem to agree on are the following:
For a Light to medium planted tanks you need to achive a minimum of 2wpg
Substrate should be an approx 1cm layer of sand maintained via proper selection of tank inhabatants
lower substrate should be a flourite or laturite material.
Supplemntal Co2 will be needed and can be done via DIY means or commercial made equipment.

Maybe a bad use of words but noone 'agrees' on any of the above, in fact some of it is just personal choice!!!

Noone agrees on light anyway and a minimum 2WPG is not needed for a light to medium level. Light can be as little as 0.5WPG T8 up to 1.5WPG T8. 2WPG T8 is medium to high IMO as this is the sort of level where you HAVE to use pressurised CO2 to be able to maintain a stable supply.

Substate can be any level of anything you want. Sand is some people's choice, gravel others choice, some use nutrient substrates under sand and gravel, some use stand alone substrates. Some don't us nutrient rich substrates. Some use thin layers some have huge mounds etc. etc. Some people don't have inhabitants to maintain their substrate.

Never used Flourite or laterite so I think I can say that isn't agreed on as a guideline. As said above many many choices. A lot of people use products that are nothing like flourite or laterite and do not need a sand or gravel layer on top.

The CO2 is correct but noone ever listens. You tell them they need pressurised and they say OK and then ignore you and try to go with DIY on too large a tank or with too much light. If they did listen this forum would be so much easier. CO2 IS the most important thing in the tank and the hardest to get right so if you can't get it right with the DIY its go pressurised or fail. very simple.

Lighting: how does wattage figure into this as i assume the following: If you have say a 48" long tank and you need to develop say 150w for lighting you can get a pair of 24" fixtures with 2x38w ( 76w per fixture) w/T5 bulbs for a total of 152w. On the other hand if you get a single 48" fixture with the same 2 38w T5 bulbs the 48" fixture only gives you 76w. Now short of using a photometer, im not so sure there is all that much differance in light output, I trust someone here can point me in the direction i have made my error in thinking.

You are trying to get too in depth for light. Don't assume you need a certain level. Forget the length of the tank and think of the volume of water. The length means nothing. The water volume and height is much much more important. Forget watts and Lux as a measurement of light. If you want to get technical you need to measure PAR!!!! Don't think 1W=1W because that is not what the WPG rule is about. It was calculated on how much light gets to the substrate of an average 20-40USG tank using T12 lights with reflectors. Do you have an average 20-40USG tank with T12s? I doubt it.

T5s will be virtually double the mount of light getting to the substrate as a T12 due to their higher efficiencies and less restrike so you can virtually say 1W on the WPG rule = 2WPG if using T5s!!!

So in answer to your question on light.
Decide what you want from your tank. Do you want to get scapes grown, photgraphed, and start on the next every few months or are you after a more permanent planted setup. Do you want to have to maintain the tank a lot or just a little, Do you want to go pressurised or not.

Decide what you want form the setup and then get the equipment to match the requirement. Don't get what people 'say' is a guideline and then decide because once you buy someone else's guideline setup you are forced down a certain avenue. Decide what you want and then get the applicable lighting, filtration, CO2 etc.

Substrate: what is or is ther a differance or advantage between flourite and laterite.
What is Eco-Complete? does it have another name(s) etc

Eco Complete is a stand alone substrate that has trace elements already in it. You still dose ferts but the substrate already has some additives in it. Flourite is similar in that it is a stand alone porous clay substrate. Laterite is an iron enriched natural substance that is used as an iron enriched additive in gardening. It can be used under sand'gravel but can get messy!!!

Co2: What in the heck is this ladder thing that is constantly referred to? Links Pics etc would be helpfull

The ladder is normally supplied with yeast CO2 fermentation kits such as the Nutrafin (If your tank is 4ft long. you won't be using a yeast/DIY setup. Your tank is too big) It is basically a plastic plate with diagonal lines in steps going up it. bubbles of CO2 enter the ladder at the bottom and travel along the steps. As they move up the ladder they reduce in size. The ladder is to keep the CO2 bubble in contact with the water for as long as possible so that it can diffuse with the water better. No diffuser and a large bubble goes straight up to the surface and the CO2 lost.

Any more question?

AC

 

[FlaNoob]

From reading the posts on this and other forums the general consensus is farly consistant if you are planning a live planted tank ( which i am ) you need a number of things, but most important is Lighting

Lighting is not the most important. You can grow under virtually any light. No necessity to get to a figure. The light however determines what you need to do to facilitate the growth the light pushes the plants at.

The guidelines most seem to agree on are the following:
For a Light to medium planted tanks you need to achive a minimum of 2wpg
Substrate should be an approx 1cm layer of sand maintained via proper selection of tank inhabatants
lower substrate should be a flourite or laturite material.
Supplemntal Co2 will be needed and can be done via DIY means or commercial made equipment.

Maybe a bad use of words but noone 'agrees' on any of the above, in fact some of it is just personal choice!!!

Noone agrees on light anyway and a minimum 2WPG is not needed for a light to medium level. Light can be as little as 0.5WPG T8 up to 1.5WPG T8. 2WPG T8 is medium to high IMO as this is the sort of level where you HAVE to use pressurised CO2 to be able to maintain a stable supply.


The CO2 is correct but noone ever listens. You tell them they need pressurised and they say OK and then ignore you and try to go with DIY on too large a tank or with too much light. If they did listen this forum would be so much easier. CO2 IS the most important thing in the tank and the hardest to get right so if you can't get it right with the DIY its go pressurised or fail. very simple.


You are trying to get too in depth for light. Don't assume you need a certain level. Forget the length of the tank and think of the volume of water. The length means nothing. The water volume and height is much much more important. Forget watts and Lux as a measurement of light. If you want to get technical you need to measure PAR!!!! Don't think 1W=1W because that is not what the WPG rule is about. It was calculated on how much light gets to the substrate of an average 20-40USG tank using T12 lights with reflectors. Do you have an average 20-40USG tank with T12s? I doubt it.

T5s will be virtually double the mount of light getting to the substrate as a T12 due to their higher efficiencies and less restrike so you can virtually say 1W on the WPG rule = 2WPG if using T5s!!!

So in answer to your question on light.
Decide what you want from your tank. Do you want to get scapes grown, photgraphed, and start on the next every few months or are you after a more permanent planted setup. Do you want to have to maintain the tank a lot or just a little, Do you want to go pressurised or not.

Decide what you want form the setup and then get the equipment to match the requirement. Don't get what people 'say' is a guideline and then decide because once you buy someone else's guideline setup you are forced down a certain avenue. Decide what you want and then get the applicable lighting, filtration, CO2 etc.


Any more question?

AC

LOL well said !
More questions !!! Oh Yes, many as yet, upon awaking this AM i guess you could say i had an epiphany of sorts, suddenly i understood ( or at least think i do) the lighting question, which now to me sounds even more confusing than when i asked it.

I do understand and agree from what you wrote, the wattage has really nothing to do with it other than maybe as an overly simple general unit of measurement.

Let me see if i now am closer to what is truely meant or needed.

If for a particular set up you wish to attain a "Lighting level" of 2wpg in a 55g tank 48" in length ( and assumeing 10% loss in volume to substrate and other displacements) no more than say 21" distance from light to substrate, you would need 100w of effective radiated light over the length of the tank.
this can be attained a number of ways, the most effecient ( remember these are all assumptions) would be a 48" fixture as the light output for the given wattage is now over the length of the tank. If instead you set up using 24" fixtures you would now need twice the wattage to "cover" the same area.
In short the WPG desired should be assumed to be as tank coverage as opposed to fixture power consumption?
Am i now a tad closer? or at least on the proper track?

and all the above is assumed seperate of bulb design or package, IE while a T5 will rate higher in wattage it is a smaller package and as such radiate out over a narrower area, providing less "light area" coverage for the plants, T12's being larger but typically lower in wattage will radiate over a larger "Light area" just with less "light". It seems to me a more accurate method of determining lighting needs is "LUX" this then raises the queston what is the effective drop of LUX per inch ( or some other measurement ) of water, and yes i understand clarity will factor into this.

BTW WHAT IS PAR???

This all brings it somewhat full circle into desired plantings, so what truly is meant by medium light requiremements for certian plant species.
I am not looking to set up a plant farm, I am more looking to set up a natural looking live planted tank, that will NOT require near constant attention.
Lighting to be just enough to assure suffecient Photosynthsis for the plants to grow well ( not looking to farm them as i said), and make the fish look good, oh yeah, and not need some expensive Co2 pressure injection system.

What i guess i still fail to totaly understand is WHAT is "medium light" requirements for the plants? and who determins that short of the hobbiests who have successfully growen and or maintained them.
Again correct me if i am wrong here, these are my current understandings:
(Using the above example)
For any given species of plant if you desire rapid propagation then increase ferts,Co2, and increase Lighting to > ( insert method of measurement here) over the plant growth area
Co2 requirements increase as more "Light" is applied (more accuratly i guess is "as photosynthesis is increased")

as you also pointed out, I am also not looking to simply "Parrot" someones setup, because their setup is not going to be like my setup or not looking to duplicate someone elses work, although i am also not looking to duplicate someone elses work at determining what "MY" lighting needs are.

This hobby has been around too long for anyone to have to get into some long study of plant lighting requirements.
Someone has done this already, if their methods are sound and other hobbists agree, then it should work and be useful information to those that come after ( " ME " ). Now then the question is....... Where is this information ? ? ?

and bear with me here, i am just trying to re-learn, these new systems are all new to me, i still have not gotten used to the fact most everyone changes out 25%+ of their water every week in Tropical tanks.
Used to do that in a marine tank, but seldom if ever in my tropicals, of course i also understand no one uses carbon much at all anymore either, but that is a subject for a differant post, and a differant area.

Thanks in advance

 

[SuperColey1]

PAR = Photosynthetically active radiation

Forget about going into light this deeply. It really isn't worth it. It is similar to nutrients. What is easier add a quantity that will definately be enough or to try and calculate the exact need.

We would be here forever really because I think you are confusing yourself.

W doesn't tell you how much light is being put out by the light. Watts are the power it takes to light the tube. Then comes Lux where if I understand it lumens is a perceived output to the human eye and not actual output.

Therefore a 100W pearl bulb does not have the same output of a 100W flourescent..

Now take a T5 tube and a T12 tube. The width has the opposite effect to what you are suggesting. Even if for example 1inch of T5 and T12 had the same wattage (same wattage per inch in length) then the efficiency and thinness of the T5 would mean that of the reflected light from the reflector behind the tube then less is blocked by the tube on its return towards the tank - Restrike)

Now take a single tank. Ifit is 4ft then a 4ft T5 tube will obviously give more output than a 4ft T12. This goes without saying. Does that mean use T5? Over a T12 yes. Over a T8 maybe not. Why because to space 2 tubes out over the depth of the tank will give better coverage than to have 1 over the centre. therefore if a T5 over the centre = 48W then 2 T8s a third from the back and a third from the front that equal 48W will give better coverage. This is assuming that they give the same output which they don't because the T5 is much more efficient and has less restrike.

The light question comes up again and again and to go so far in depth is not necessary. The best thing to do is think t yourself what is my aim. Is it to have a fast growing high maintenance scape that I can photograph take down and start on the next or do I want a long term low maintenance tank that I can do light maintenance and pruning and have for a few years. If the former then blast away with the light. If the latter then use less light.

Then ask do I want to go pressurised CO2? If not you are limited to low light. If yes then you have more options.

Simple theory is as explained really 2WPG of T8 or 1WPG of T5 will grow virtually anything at a reasonably fast rate with pressurised CO2. If you don't want pressurised then go lower than this!!!

People who are interested in PAR would measure the radiation at the water's surface and at several increments until they reach the substrate. Forget water displacement by anything other than the substrate. Your water volume is the whole tank minus the substrate for the purpose of the WPG calculation otherwise you need to calculate it daily as the plants grow and displace more water!!!!

Think more simply and you will understand the basics get a handle of the process. Then move onto the technicalities of science. I am no scientist nor want to be. I do not need to know the actual readings of a T5 versus a T8 but I can see from plant growth it is double!!!! Leave the science for another time. It is a side issue to the hobby. Something that is interesting to know but not really needed. The methodolgy is what is important. the actual figures are pretty irrelevant. Most of us do not have the testing facilities nor the cash to buy accurate test kits to go in depth on anything within the aquarium including ammonia and nitrates because hobby kits are nowhere near accurate enough. We aim for ranges rather than exact figures and then if it isn't working raise or decrease something until it does work. Can take a long time to find the balance but once found you are there. the holy grail and no need to know exactly why. You will have a rough idea but precision isn't a thing that is needed. too many get carried away with test kits and needing to be so precise and they are often the ones that fail because they are working on things that aren't needed rather than the things that are. Leave the science to the scientists. Trial rather than think. Its practice that makes perfect not thinking about it.

AC

 

[FlaNoob]

PAR = Photosynthetically active radiation

Ok that makes sense in light ( pun intended ) of plant care

Simple theory is as explained really 2WPG of T8 or 1WPG of T5 will grow virtually anything at a reasonably fast rate with pressurised CO2. If you don't want pressurised then go lower than this!!!

Now thats what im talking about, Along with an article i just finished reading, Lighting is now semi-perfectly explaned ( at least in the context of aquarium keeping), what did not make any sense to me was why xx wattage of one light was any differant, than another ie for say a 48" long tank looking to provide enough light for good lush growth without excessive or fast growth, or pressurized Co2, then one could easily get by with 2 48" 38watt T8's or a pair of 40watt T12's , or 20w T5's
All differant power consumptins and drastic differances in prices ( them T5's is expensive buggers), yet all yeild the same base result. A suffecient amount of light to do the desired job?

Plants in the medium to low light needs catagory would do well with these with any one of these three options?

And excess Light is better than excess Co2 and Excess Ferts.

Plant options are next. So Get your coffee

So i am back to my original thought that i can get by with so far the following:
rather than the 2 24" single bulb 28w T12 fixtures that came with the hood
1 48" 2x38w lighting fixture with 6500k T8 bulbs ( long life, lower cost, very good Light output, with electronic Ballast)
Rather than Gravel substrate use Eco Complete substrate and NO UGF
Rather than a Power Filter, Go cannister type ( little to no surface disturbance )
1 Pair of True Siamese Alge Eaters Takes care of alge on tank AND Plants
1 200w submerged heater (Came with kit)
and a DIY Co2 reactor ( probably not needed ) CO2 to be fed into the output side of canister filter.

My thoughts are to do a silent cycle so plants will come onboard immediately after tank initial set up and fill, and SAE's within 1 to 2 days following that
i just need to settle on the Plants now if all the above looks right.

 

[SuperColey1]

And excess Light is better than excess Co2 and Excess Ferts.

Put your coffee back, you've got confused again. lol
This statement is the wrong way round. You want to control the plants growth with the lights.
6WPG = turbo growth
0.5WPG = very slow growth.

If a high amount of light is pushing the plants to grow faster then they require more ferts and more CO2. In all scenarios therefore it is best to dose more CO2 and fertiliser than the plants need and then they don't run out. If you provide the light and not enough ferts then the plants will run defficient. Then algae will find something to feed on whilst the light is there that the plants are unable to use.

Think about it as your car. You put £30 of fuel (nutrients and CO2) into the tank. Doesn't mean you have to use it now. Doesn't mean you need £30 worth of fuel at all.

Now the light is your foot on the accelerater. gentle push and the car will move along at a nice slow pace and use the fuel slowly. Push your foot flat to the floor and you may run out of fuel.

This isn't to say we chuck in huge amounts of CO2 and ferts and then leave it for a week because of the livestock. We don't go the other way and say x amount of growth under x amount of light needs X amount of ferts. We use a regime and that regime will aim ata range where it assumes growth will need between X and Y amount therefore we will dose Y.

We tend to do the opposite for CO2 where we know 50ppm will kill livestock. We know 40/45ppm will cause them suffering so we aim at 30ppm. the max that is safe for them without causing them suffering. this way CO2 is always available.

I can't answer the rest because you STILL haven't give us your tank volume. Forget the length of the lights what is the literage of your tank as sold to you i.e. Juwel Rio 240 = 240 litres

Now I will get my coffee

AC

 

[FlaNoob]

And excess Light is better than excess Co2 and Excess Ferts.

Put your coffee back, you've got confused again. lol

Think about it as your car. You put £30 of fuel (nutrients and CO2) into the tank. Doesn't mean you have to use it now. Doesn't mean you need £30 worth of fuel at all.

This isn't to say we chuck in huge amounts of CO2 and ferts and then leave it for a week because of the livestock. We don't go the other way and say x amount of growth under x amount of light needs X amount of ferts. We use a regime and that regime will aim ata range where it assumes growth will need between X and Y amount therefore we will dose Y.

We tend to do the opposite for CO2 where we know 50ppm will kill livestock. We know 40/45ppm will cause them suffering so we aim at 30ppm. the max that is safe for them without causing them suffering. this way CO2 is always available.

I can't answer the rest because you STILL haven't give us your tank volume. Forget the length of the lights what is the literage of your tank as sold to you i.e. Juwel Rio 240 = 240 litres

Now I will get my coffee

AC

Ok, coffee down... 2 tanks but dealing with one at a time

Tank one is a 55g rect. 48x13x21 lets see in litres thats apprx 214l

http/users.bluecarrots.com/dave.mann/pet...in/tankcalc.htm

And excess Light is better than excess Co2 and Excess Ferts.

Now the light is your foot on the accelerater. gentle push and the car will move along at a nice slow pace and use the fuel slowly. Push your foot flat to the floor and you may run out of fuel.

Ahh i got ya light "Drives" the growth, while the Fert and Co2 supports or "fuels" it
AND we do not desire to flood it while just idleing around for a sunday drive

And excess Light is better than excess Co2 and Excess Ferts.

This statement is the wrong way round. You want to control the plants growth with the lights.
6WPG = turbo growth
0.5WPG = very slow growth.
If a high amount of light is pushing the plants to grow faster then they require more ferts and more CO2. In all scenarios therefore it is best to dose more CO2 and fertiliser than the plants need and then they don't run out. If you provide the light and not enough ferts then the plants will run defficient. Then algae will find something to feed on whilst the light is there that the plants are unable to use.

Got ya, so excess light will cause Alge growth with out supporting desired plant growth, and thats bad..... I knew that ( i think)

Ok and i want to be more than very slow ie > .5wpg
and much less than "Turbo Growth" @ 5+WPG

so a 48" fixture with 2 38w T8 bulbs @ 6500K puts me where? according to the charts lower than low light plants, BUT because i am going to use T8's your experience has showen a far greater "PAR" than is indicated by generaly "Used" conversions based on T12's
And the only reason i have settled on the T8's is their longevity
or is this a bad assesment?

 

[Nick16]

if i was you, go for something like 1-2wpg 2 being max
(aim for about 1.5)

then get a decent substrate, ADA stuff is very good but you pay for it. but nearly every well known company has their own versions and they range in price so take your pic. (ADA, tropica, sera, JBL, you name it) then get yourself some co2 set up (use a FE, its cheaper in the long run and very easy and safe if you respect it) the lastly, get yourself a botttle of TPN+ and dose small amounts daily. or every other day depending on heavily stocked you are.

 

[nosoup4you]

I just wanted to say that I always love SC's analogies...

 

[SuperColey1]

Ahh i got ya light "Drives" the growth, while the Fert and Co2 supports or "fuels" it
AND we do not desire to flood it while just idleing around for a sunday drive

Exactly if you want a sunday drive put a tenner in the tank. If you want to get on a straight country road and floor it put £40 in

Got ya, so excess light will cause Alge growth with out supporting desired plant growth, and thats bad..... I knew that ( i think)
Ok and i want to be more than very slow ie > .5wpg
and much less than "Turbo Growth" @ 5+WPG

Not necessarily. You are choosing the speed you drive at so if you want to be turning out scape after scape for photoshoots etc before moving onto the next every 2,3,4 months etc then drive fast but be prepared to keep it fuelled up.

Tank one is a 55g rect. 48x13x21 lets see in litres thats apprx 214l

so a 48" fixture with 2 38w T8 bulbs @ 6500K puts me where? according to the charts lower than low light plants, BUT because i am going to use T8's your experience has showen a far greater "PAR" than is indicated by generaly "Used" conversions based on T12's
And the only reason i have settled on the T8's is their longevity
or is this a bad assesment?

Forget how long the fixture is this doesn't mean a lot. Forget the K rating. That is for your eyes. what colour you prefer the tank to look like determines the K rating you choose. Theplants couldn't care less within reason. 3000 - 10000 would be best though, although some people are currently using marine colour LEDs with high success in fast driven tanks!!!

With T8s I would just use the WPG rule. T8 isn't that much different from T12 really unless you are using electronic ballasts which I will explain a little later. Therefore you have 76 / 55 = 1.4WPG which IMO unless they are a long way above the tank is fine for low to medium light.

Longevity is another matter entirely. lol Forget the tube size on this. Tubes will inevitably burn themselves out over time.

If you are using a magnetic ballast which is the type that flicker starts and uses the round cylindrical starter then a T12/T10/T8/T5 will be OK light for a year or so. It will still be working OK and will keep going for years after but the light will deteriorate enough for it to be lowering your WPG all the time.

If you are using an electronic ballast it will prolong the life of the bulb. These are like the energy saving bulbs you get for your room lights. they delay the start for a fraction of a second but then come straight on. They do not flicker start nor do they need the cylindrical starter. They run a lot cooler and a tube will last 2 years or so before they are at the same level of deterioration.

So aim for replacing your lights yearly for magnetic or 2 yearly for electronic. Do not be fooled by the 'aquarium' label as it adds a premium to the price for no reason!!! A 6500K 'aquarium' tube priced at £20 is the same as a normal 6500K tube priced at £5. All you need to use these tubes are 'aquarium' water tight end caps which you will already have in your setup!!! The tubes need nothing else. You put any tube of the correct wattage into your hood and once you have put the water tight end caps onto the end it is sealed. Magic.

So when you said T5 looks expensive. the starter unit can be but the actual tubes are the same as a normal shed/kitchen/shop fitting uses.

Check this site out if you think T5 is expensive. lol You can get all your tubes from here and get some spares just in case.

Just select the length/W/diameter and K rating you want. Get a decent quality one using the CRI rating. The CRI is a 3 figure number where the first digit is the quality of the output in other words if it is 0 then don't buy it. If it is 8 or 9 then that is good. the second 2 digits indicate the K rating. therefore if a tube's CRI rating was 965 it means that 9 = quality output, 65 means 6500K. pretty simple. I have linked to a 965 (9 = 93% accurate colour rendering, 65 = 6500K) light . you can explore for your preference by clicking home, but for £6 this is a good light, better than you would buy in the LFS!!! and for much cheaper than your LFS too!!! You could replace al the lights in both your aquariums at this price:

http/www.lampspecs.co.uk/Light-Bulbs-Tub...Philips-36-Watt

AC

 

[FlaNoob]

if i was you, go for something like 1-2wpg 2 being max
(aim for about 1.5)

then get a decent substrate, ADA stuff is very good but you pay for it. but nearly every well known company has their own versions and they range in price so take your pic. (ADA, tropica, sera, JBL, you name it) then get yourself some co2 set up (use a FE, its cheaper in the long run and very easy and safe if you respect it) the lastly, get yourself a botttle of TPN+ and dose small amounts daily. or every other day depending on heavily stocked you are.

1.5 was pretty much where i was headed, was just getting conflicted on what all these "other tables" said, as opposed to real life numbers
if i have under stood correctly 1.5 will give me reasonable growth rates for most mid to low light plants.

and as a result i can build my own from parts from Homedepot or a local electrical supply place as opposed to buying the over priced lfs units
35.00 - 40.00 usd versus 130.00 usd or higher because it is made by an aquarium specialty place

guess that just leaves me to decide on plant selection now.

BTW almost forgot to ask .. What is TPN+ ?

 

[SuperColey1]

Be careful making your own units. the starter and end caps are deigned for the aquarium for a reason. They are IP65 splash proof. Its just the tubes that there is no reason to get aquarium branded.

Its OK to make your own hood etc but the starter and end cap setup should really be aquarium branded or IP65 outdoor use stuff.

Check out the lighting pin on the main planted page. There is a link to a good US supplier somewhere on it.

TPN+ is to europe what Seachem is in the US off the shelf fertiliser wise. They are the best available in the 2 areas. Tropica TPN+ is better than Seachem but is not readily available in US.

I guess if you are wanting to go so in depth about the lighting you will be making your own ferts from dry powders too. Cheaper and user maneuvrable

AC

 

[nosoup4you]

TPN+ in the US

 

[FlaNoob]

Be careful making your own units. the starter and end caps are deigned for the aquarium for a reason. They are IP65 splash proof. Its just the tubes that there is no reason to get aquarium branded.

Its OK to make your own hood etc but the starter and end cap setup should really be aquarium branded or IP65 outdoor use stuff.

Check out the lighting pin on the main planted page. There is a link to a good US supplier somewhere on it.

TPN+ is to europe what Seachem is in the US off the shelf fertiliser wise. They are the best available in the 2 areas. Tropica TPN+ is better than Seachem but is not readily available in US.

I guess if you are wanting to go so in depth about the lighting you will be making your own ferts from dry powders too. Cheaper and user maneuvrable

AC

HMMM

 

[OldMan47]

A quick side note. In the US, the CRI number will be between 1 and 100. It is an expression of the percentage rating of how closely a bulb reflects natural light. Any number less than about 80 means the color rendering is terrible while anything over 90 looks pretty good. The color of the tube, such as 6700K, will be listed separately. A good supplier in the US is AHSupply. They make both backfit kits for your hood or they will send you a full kit for a particular tank. The full hoods they make are not very fancy and may disappoint you in terms of appearance but they are really light people, not carpenters. I have used their light kits on several tanks and they seem to work well.