Light On Hood Broken

slimeneo

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Hi, I have the Aquaculture Home Starter Kit (10 Gal). It came with a filter and hood with incandescent lights (2 bulbs). However when using it during the summer, I found that turning on the lights would cause the temperature in the tank to rise to 82 degrees. I ended up not using it anymore, and instead using just a table lamp. But recently since it's become colder, I thought it would be ok to use it... except one side of the hood, the light just won't work. I think one of the bulbs just doesn't work, but the other that works on the one side won't work on the other. So I've decided to buy a new hood altogether.

I've found this lid, which is of a decent price AND it's LED. http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-LED-Aquarium-Hood-20/dp/B00474BN1K/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

... the only concern I have is if it will fit my tank. My tank has a little "lip" where the cover fits, so it's not exactly 20" lengthwise, it's probably about 19.5"... while the hood I found is 20.5"

Oh, and I'm not sure if it can sustain my plants. I have bacopa monnieri which needs a decent amount of light and anacharis. Marineland's site says it has 460 lux, but what is that in watts...? Thank you!
 
If the bulb works in one socket and not in the other, it may be that the "tab" at the back of the bad socket is squashed flat against the back. It has to be pulled out a bit to make contact with the nub on the bottom of the bulb. I usually use a popsicle stick to pry the tab out a bit. Of course, unplug the light first!
 
Unfortunately, the metal tab broke :( is there a way to fix it?

Can you post a pic so that we can see the exact socket/damage?

Here's the side that's working:
2zcpd.jpg


Here's the side that's NOT working:
3C2YL.jpg
 
You could possibly solder it but it will not have the 'spring' as it did before to make a secure connection so you would have to add a lump of solder onto the plate where the bulb touches it, not easy or a secure connection. I would suggest looking for a whole new fitting.
 
OK thanks :) do you know how much "lux" I need if I get LED to be able to sustain my plants? is there some conversion from lux to watts (or something like watts per gallon rule)
 
Not as such, it's more to do with the spectrum that the LED's give out. I'm currently researching them for my reef tank and it's a minefield :/
 
Not as such, it's more to do with the spectrum that the LED's give out. I'm currently researching them for my reef tank and it's a minefield :/

Ah. I'll probably go with fluorescent then. Too bad LEDs look better :(
 
Not as such, it's more to do with the spectrum that the LED's give out. I'm currently researching them for my reef tank and it's a minefield :/

Ah. I'll probably go with fluorescent then. Too bad LEDs look better :(

Its not that bad actually...

The spectrum you need for your plants is a little Blue and a little Red.

acsc5g.jpg


...and LEDs can cover both depending on what kind you get.
 
The hood I found doesn't have that measurement, though. It only says that it has 460 par/lux with 22 60mW White LEDs and 2 60mW Blue LEDs.

I never knew lighting could be so complicated.
 
It's not quite a simple as 'a little blue and a little red', for one thing the 'red' is actually produced by white lights.

Plants & corals require specific wavelengths in both the red and blue spectrum for photosynthesis but the range used is quite definite. Chlorophyll has two peaks of efficiency, one in the blue spectrum (around 430 nm) and one in the red spectrum (around 680 nm) so ensuring that the LED's provide both of these is where it gets challenging as only DIY or purpose built (and therefore expensive) units will give information on the wavelength values. Cheaper units will only state something like 'good for plant growth' or 'daylight', not that these won't do the job, just you have no way of telling how efficiently.

Best thing to do would be to post in thwarted lighting section of the forum as there's at least one member who frequents there who actually builds custom LED units and will be able to offer better advice.

HTH
 
just make sure, this time, the connections are meant to be in a moist environment.
the problem you have, there is the light fitting is entirely unsuited to the job its doing.
its an unsealed household unit!
 

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