If I were doing a 20 long then on the old flouros T8s I would be looking at in the region of 30-40W, 2 to 4" above the water surface . With LED I would be dropping that down to 20-30W and raising it up to be 6 - 12" inches above. If you are confident with DIY and can get the drivers and supplies would be ideal to use 20 x 1W (or 21 to make 3 rows of 7) If using 3W then probably 2 rows of 4. Depends on the LED though if it is a super dooper Cree then you can use a little less than using an outdated LED like the Luxeon.
It's mainly dependent on how you are going to 'package' them. If you are able to suspend the unit then you can add more W and have the flexibility to raise the unit up to achieve a little less. If you get something like the RapidLED PWM youy could have the flexibility to set times and push the levels up or down dependent on the current tanks requirements etc. Underpowering them slightly (dimming etc.)
LEDs are much more flexible than other forms of lighting. gives you much more options at the start in terms of wher you place them, numbers to use et al. Flouros and MH go up in pretty large increments meaning if a tank is 2ft you are moving up in15W increments when you add a tube. With LEDs you can move up in 1W increments, 3W increments etc.
Andy