Got my new tank on Tuesday a ViaAqua AR620 90l in silver its all set up gravel and plastic plants in heater airstone set temp 29c added water tuesday night wednesday added Ammonia 3,5ml then 1.5ml then 1ml and lastly another 1ml so 7ml in all Ammonia is now 3.5ppm-4ppm shall wait till saturday before doing more tests the water has gone cloudy is this good ?
Ive Got It
- Thread starter sky 1
- Start date
doresy
Sometimes Right, Sometimes Wrong but ALWAYS certai
How exciting....... 
Cloudiness probably due to dust from the gravel......will clear in time and will not effect your cycling.
Sounds like you are off ok, testing will probably not show any change for a couple of weeks unless you have included some matured media in your filter.
Bumping the thermostat up a couple of more degrees will help.
Just a though, you have used dechlorinator and have you checked the ph level?
Cloudiness probably due to dust from the gravel......will clear in time and will not effect your cycling.
Sounds like you are off ok, testing will probably not show any change for a couple of weeks unless you have included some matured media in your filter.
Bumping the thermostat up a couple of more degrees will help.
Just a though, you have used dechlorinator and have you checked the ph level?
Aqua Tom
Fish Gatherer
Groovy.
Here is my two pennath
Turn the heat up a bit more
Leave it a few days before you test again.
Cloudyness could be caused by dust from the sunstrate or an early bacetial bloom. niether is a cause for concern.
Good luck & keep us posted.
~Tom~
Here is my two pennath
Turn the heat up a bit more
Leave it a few days before you test again.
Cloudyness could be caused by dust from the sunstrate or an early bacetial bloom. niether is a cause for concern.
Good luck & keep us posted.
~Tom~
Thanks for your replys i did use declorinator wilkos own brand (cheep one) it is still cloudy this morrnig lots of air going in from filter and airstone so some bubbles on top of water today is day three so i am going to test for Ammonia tomorrow have not tested for anythink else yet I do not have a PH test only ammonia and Nitrite do i nead one?I know it says i do but if i test for Ammonia and Nitrite till they both go back too 0ppm would this be ok?
You really need to know you pH of your water as it can dictate what fish you can keep, plus you'll also need to know the NitrAte level as well.
I know someone else will chime in with this but it's recommended on here to buy the API Freshwater Master Test Kit (approx £20 on ebay).
Also, you're starting your fish-less cycle which can take a fair few weeks to complete before your tank is ready for livestock, so be prepared to wait, test, wait a bit more.
It looks like you've already read the Fishless Cycle part in the Beginners Resource Center but I'd also have a read of other new tank keepers journals & logs to see what process they've gone through.
Good luck!
I know someone else will chime in with this but it's recommended on here to buy the API Freshwater Master Test Kit (approx £20 on ebay).
Also, you're starting your fish-less cycle which can take a fair few weeks to complete before your tank is ready for livestock, so be prepared to wait, test, wait a bit more.
It looks like you've already read the Fishless Cycle part in the Beginners Resource Center but I'd also have a read of other new tank keepers journals & logs to see what process they've gone through.
Good luck!
You don't need a Ph test but the thing is the bacteria we are trying to produce in our tank thrive at 8-8.4 ph and they tend to slow/stop reproducing at about 6ph. As long as your cycle runs as planned this is a non issue but if it stalls it may be hard to diagnose without knowing what the PH of your water is. Plus if you test you water and it is acidic you have the option of adding a little bicarb soda to bring up the ph and produce an ideal breeding ground for bacteria.
Its proberly just bubbles from your airstone, nothing to worry about. LOOKING GOOD!!!!
Keith.
waterdrop
Enthusiastic "Re-Beginner"
Hi sky1 and Welcome to TFF!
If you've already got the individual liquid tests for ammonia and nitrite then you could just gradually purchase more individual test kits: the pH kit rather soon, followed by the nitrate(NO3) kit a few weeks from now, at which point you'd have re-created the master kit. (Note that you'd perhaps have to have some idea whether your local tap water likely fell into the low or high range (if your LFS is very local to you they may know and you could study the two pH kits to see the ranges, although I think the crossover point is about at pH=7.6 or so.)
It's also possible a cheap dechlor product might contribute to your initial cloudiness although is much more likely this is just the way the water looks the first few days or it is some gravel dust. In one of my fishless cycles I ended up deciding that one of the other dechlor products didn't seem to work well for me and the members here recommended Seachem Prime as being higher quality, not to mention being the best value ultimately because of how concentrated it is. I'll never go back to anything else probably.
Kudos for studying up and choosing a fishless cycle! No matter what goes wrong, your fish are not exposed to it! The important part is simply the doing of it and being patient. Here in the freshwater beginners section we see so many cycling logs that we enjoy tweeking things, but overall these things will complete more or less regardless. One tweek I'm partial to is a 29C/84F temp which I arrived at after some back and forth with Tim Hovanc's info but I see Dorsey and Tom are advocating 31C up above (so I disagree with them
but Tim was focused on the nitrite oxidizers with that and I suppose it's possible a slightly higher kick for the A-Bacs initially might not hurt.. it's just another of the many places we have so little info other than a general feeling from watching lots and lots of cases over the years.)
It won't hurt having airstones working (because it adds some bottom to top circulation) and you do want to tweek the surface movement provided by your filter output if possible as that will be an even larger contributor to slightly higher oxygenation of the water. The bacteria want the right ammonia concentration, plenty of oxygen, the right temp, the right pH and some trace calcium and magnesium provided by the tap water. The filter water you got (and even an additional tiny pinch of fishfood) will help a tiny bit possibly, can't hurt, although the overall fact that you are ammonia dosing will be the main thing.
~~waterdrop~~
If you've already got the individual liquid tests for ammonia and nitrite then you could just gradually purchase more individual test kits: the pH kit rather soon, followed by the nitrate(NO3) kit a few weeks from now, at which point you'd have re-created the master kit. (Note that you'd perhaps have to have some idea whether your local tap water likely fell into the low or high range (if your LFS is very local to you they may know and you could study the two pH kits to see the ranges, although I think the crossover point is about at pH=7.6 or so.)
It's also possible a cheap dechlor product might contribute to your initial cloudiness although is much more likely this is just the way the water looks the first few days or it is some gravel dust. In one of my fishless cycles I ended up deciding that one of the other dechlor products didn't seem to work well for me and the members here recommended Seachem Prime as being higher quality, not to mention being the best value ultimately because of how concentrated it is. I'll never go back to anything else probably.
Kudos for studying up and choosing a fishless cycle! No matter what goes wrong, your fish are not exposed to it! The important part is simply the doing of it and being patient. Here in the freshwater beginners section we see so many cycling logs that we enjoy tweeking things, but overall these things will complete more or less regardless. One tweek I'm partial to is a 29C/84F temp which I arrived at after some back and forth with Tim Hovanc's info but I see Dorsey and Tom are advocating 31C up above (so I disagree with them
but Tim was focused on the nitrite oxidizers with that and I suppose it's possible a slightly higher kick for the A-Bacs initially might not hurt.. it's just another of the many places we have so little info other than a general feeling from watching lots and lots of cases over the years.)It won't hurt having airstones working (because it adds some bottom to top circulation) and you do want to tweek the surface movement provided by your filter output if possible as that will be an even larger contributor to slightly higher oxygenation of the water. The bacteria want the right ammonia concentration, plenty of oxygen, the right temp, the right pH and some trace calcium and magnesium provided by the tap water. The filter water you got (and even an additional tiny pinch of fishfood) will help a tiny bit possibly, can't hurt, although the overall fact that you are ammonia dosing will be the main thing.
~~waterdrop~~
Water is ok now not cloudy anymore looks good i have a liquid test for Ammonia and Nitrite still the same readings as before not worried as not even been a week yet hopefully things will start moving toward the end of the week
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