Is This Blue Green Algae (Cyanobacteria)

[shaziasadiqah]

This morning i saw this green thingy on one of my plant, then i remove it by cutting the plant and take a closer look.

I'm not sure if it's blue green algae (cyanobacteria) but i'm kinda pretty sure because it has a smell to it, it's like the kind of earthy smell.

Right now i don't do anything with the tank and no other this green thingy inside my tank other than on this plant but should i treat the tank with something or do something else? tomorrow is the tank's water change schedule and i usually do a 50% water change weekly.

If it is a blue green algae (cyanobacteria) i'm worry if that will harm my fishes and other plants, too.

Water parameter:
Amonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate around 10 to 20 ppm

I dose Tropica specialized nutrition and ADA Iron every week after water change and i usually put Tetra Initial Sticks every month.
it's a 33gal tank with 12 ember tetra, 6 albino cories, 6 kuhli loach and a pair of honey gourami, feed them twice a day.

I set my light on a timer for 8 hours a day from 7 am to 3pm, i use a cheap light from my LFS 25watt if i remember correctly.

I have sponge filter and a 750 liter per hour HoB.

Please help, thank you

 

[Sgooosh]

sure looks like it

 

[shaziasadiqah]

sure looks like it

thank you.

Do you think i need to treat my tank with something or removing in plant with the blue green algae is enough?

 

[Sgooosh]

thank you.

Do you think i need to treat my tank with something or removing in plant with the blue green algae is enough?

i'm sorry, have no experience on this... try washing it off?

 

[hansgruber7]

It could be but it's not clear to me. I would just wash it off for now. If it really is cyanobacteria and it starts spreading, then you can use Ultralife Blue Green Slime Stain Remover. I had a bad case of cyanobacteria that took over my tank and that cleared it up completely. Then you do need to address whatever was causing it too or it will come back. In my case I think it was overfeeding, excess nutrients, lack of water flow, and poor quality tap water (I switched to RO). But treatment can be stressful for fish, so I would hold off into it's clearly spreading and you're confident that's what it is.

 

[Byron]

That is cyanobactria, not an algae, and it is caused by high organics in the presence of light. The only way to get it under control (i.e., basically eliminated from the tank) is by getting the source cleaned up, and (sometimes) adjusting the light duration (intensity and spectrum also factor in with live plants). Never use chemicals, antibiotics, etc. That is harmful to the fish, and if the source is not eradicated the cyano may return.

Nitrates between 10-20 is one organic issue. Are these occurring within the tank, or is nitrate in the source water at some level? This is important, because lowering nitrate that occurs from the biological system is doable, but nitrates entering the tank with fresh water adds another complication requiring a different resolution, depending upon the level. Test your tap water on its own and report please.

Increase the volume of the weekly water change (to help get rid of organics), up to 75% provided the parameters (GH, pH and temperature) are reasonably close between tap and tank. Vacuum into the substrate in open areas (only), and give the filter media a good rinse at every W/C. You can rinse the filter media under the tap, that is not harmful in an established tank with live plants. Rub the cyano off every surface you can reach, using your fingers, before the W/C; it will usually sink or fall onto something and is easy to siphon out with the W/C.

Stock is not overloaded, so that brings us to the feeding. Fish do not need so much food (except fry, different issue). Feed once a day, and minimally. I give two, sometimes three "fast" days each week; the fish are fine. Less food in means less waste out which means less organics.

Discontinue all plant additives until this is cleaned up, they are only providing more nutrients so the cyanobacteria benefits either way. I will caution you on these additives though, as they are problematic on their own. Iron is not needed additionally if it is already included in a comprehensive supplement. It is known to encourage algae and cyano, but it is a micronutrient and in a balanced supplement will be in sufficient supply. Tropica specialized nutrition is not advisable, it has nitrogen and phosphate, neither of which should ever be added to a tank with fish [the info on the site even says this can feed algae]. The Tropical Premium Fertilizer is OK, it specifically says it does not include these two nutrients, but I would use it very sparingly at first until the cyano is dealt with. Phosphate in fish foods is more than enough for plants in a natural or low-tech method tank. And nitrogen is taken up as ammonia/ammonium by plants and you might be surprised how much they can assimilate. They cannot use nitrate without first converting it back into ammonium, which is more energy waste for the plant so they don't do it. Nitrate is thus feeding the cyano.

Hope this helps. With perseverance it is possible to get this resolved, I had it twice in one tank but I got rid of it.

 

[mbsqw1d]

High phosphate with low nitrate can cause cyanobacteria. Do you know if your tap water is high in phosphates?

 

[shaziasadiqah]

It could be but it's not clear to me. I would just wash it off for now. If it really is cyanobacteria and it starts spreading, then you can use Ultralife Blue Green Slime Stain Remover. I had a bad case of cyanobacteria that took over my tank and that cleared it up completely. Then you do need to address whatever was causing it too or it will come back. In my case I think it was overfeeding, excess nutrients, lack of water flow, and poor quality tap water (I switched to RO). But treatment can be stressful for fish, so I would hold off into it's clearly spreading and you're confident that's what it is.

I only saw it on that plant and the plant have been removed from the tank, i hope it won't come back.
Thank you.

That is cyanobactria, not an algae, and it is caused by high organics in the presence of light. The only way to get it under control (i.e., basically eliminated from the tank) is by getting the source cleaned up, and (sometimes) adjusting the light duration (intensity and spectrum also factor in with live plants). Never use chemicals, antibiotics, etc. That is harmful to the fish, and if the source is not eradicated the cyano may return.

Nitrates between 10-20 is one organic issue. Are these occurring within the tank, or is nitrate in the source water at some level? This is important, because lowering nitrate that occurs from the biological system is doable, but nitrates entering the tank with fresh water adds another complication requiring a different resolution, depending upon the level. Test your tap water on its own and report please.

Increase the volume of the weekly water change (to help get rid of organics), up to 75% provided the parameters (GH, pH and temperature) are reasonably close between tap and tank. Vacuum into the substrate in open areas (only), and give the filter media a good rinse at every W/C. You can rinse the filter media under the tap, that is not harmful in an established tank with live plants. Rub the cyano off every surface you can reach, using your fingers, before the W/C; it will usually sink or fall onto something and is easy to siphon out with the W/C.

Stock is not overloaded, so that brings us to the feeding. Fish do not need so much food (except fry, different issue). Feed once a day, and minimally. I give two, sometimes three "fast" days each week; the fish are fine. Less food in means less waste out which means less organics.

Discontinue all plant additives until this is cleaned up, they are only providing more nutrients so the cyanobacteria benefits either way. I will caution you on these additives though, as they are problematic on their own. Iron is not needed additionally if it is already included in a comprehensive supplement. It is known to encourage algae and cyano, but it is a micronutrient and in a balanced supplement will be in sufficient supply. Tropica specialized nutrition is not advisable, it has nitrogen and phosphate, neither of which should ever be added to a tank with fish [the info on the site even says this can feed algae]. The Tropical Premium Fertilizer is OK, it specifically says it does not include these two nutrients, but I would use it very sparingly at first until the cyano is dealt with. Phosphate in fish foods is more than enough for plants in a natural or low-tech method tank. And nitrogen is taken up as ammonia/ammonium by plants and you might be surprised how much they can assimilate. They cannot use nitrate without first converting it back into ammonium, which is more energy waste for the plant so they don't do it. Nitrate is thus feeding the cyano.

Hope this helps. With perseverance it is possible to get this resolved, I had it twice in one tank but I got rid of it.

I think i kind of overfeed sometimes, maybe i will lessen the food from now on.

Also because this tank have sand in it i rarely do deep gravel vac unlike my other tanks, maybe that also could be a problem because poop and uneaten food are left down there.

My tap have 0 nitrate, that's why i think i overfeed the tank a bit because i have that nitrate level, with my other tanks usually it's lower.

I also know that the light is too bright for the tank but i just set my timer to only 6 hours a day and hope for the best. i will stop the ferts until i see no more cyanobacteria in that tank.

I didn't know that Tropica specialized nutrition have nitrogen and phosphate, maybe i will switch to the orange one (premium nutrition).

Thank you

High phosphate with low nitrate can cause cyanobacteria. Do you know if your tap water is high in phosphates?

I don't know about that because i don't have a test kit for phosphates, maybe i'll buy one soon.

What i do know is my water is a well water but since the tank where we store the water is open rain also collected there then goes to my house. I don't know if that can cause an issue with fish or plants. also my water is very soft and low in PH.
Thank you.

 

[Byron]

Also because this tank have sand in it i rarely do deep gravel vac unlike my other tanks, maybe that also could be a problem because poop and uneaten food are left down there.

No, that should not normally be a problem, unless overfeeding. The substrate is the biological basis of an aquarium, and the largest colonization of many species of useful bacteria live down there, aerobic and anaerobic. I never touch mine (I have sand substrates), only vacuuming along/above the surface in one tank, nothing in the others.

My tap have 0 nitrate, that's why i think i overfeed the tank a bit because i have that nitrate level, with my other tanks usually it's lower.

Good, that makes it easier to get this under control.

I also know that the light is too bright for the tank but i just set my timer to only 6 hours a day and hope for the best. i will stop the ferts until i see no more cyanobacteria in that tank.

That can help. Also, floating plants, substantial ones, like Water Sprit, Frogbit, Water Lettuce, even some stem plants do well left floating (Pennywort is one I use). These will suck up ammonia/ammonium unbelievably, which helps, and shade the lower tank, which also helps fish and controlling algae/cyano.

I didn't know that Tropica specialized nutrition have nitrogen and phosphate, maybe i will switch to the orange one (premium nutrition).

That would be very sensible. You want the nitrates as low as possible, zero would be great for the fish, but certainly lower than 20 ppm. My tanks have been in the 0-5 ppm range for more than ten years now, never varying from water change to water change, and that is the kind of stability you want.

I don't know about that because i don't have a test kit for phosphates, maybe i'll buy one soon.

What i do know is my water is a well water but since the tank where we store the water is open rain also collected there then goes to my house. I don't know if that can cause an issue with fish or plants. also my water is very soft and low in PH.

A quick comment on this...don't fuss over phosphates, but your local fish store might test them for you, I wouldn't go beyond that though. I think the afore-mentioned suggestions will deal with this, it may take a few weeks, but persevere.

 

[Stan510]

6 hours is as least as you can go. Or,just dont put the lights on for 3-4 days. BGA can be killed of with various chemicals..then as mentioned comes back with the first water change that removes the chemicals.
So,clean the pre filters very well...get excess gunk out of the substrate. One thing I learned over the decades is..sand is a problem with BGA. They seem to go hand in hand. You really want to use proper grade gravel for most of the tank and maybe some white sands for show in least amount in the front.
Basically, dirty sands and dirty filters + too much light just send BGA to heavenly happiness.

 

[shaziasadiqah]

No, that should not normally be a problem, unless overfeeding. The substrate is the biological basis of an aquarium, and the largest colonization of many species of useful bacteria live down there, aerobic and anaerobic. I never touch mine (I have sand substrates), only vacuuming along/above the surface in one tank, nothing in the others.



Good, that makes it easier to get this under control.



That can help. Also, floating plants, substantial ones, like Water Sprit, Frogbit, Water Lettuce, even some stem plants do well left floating (Pennywort is one I use). These will suck up ammonia/ammonium unbelievably, which helps, and shade the lower tank, which also helps fish and controlling algae/cyano.



That would be very sensible. You want the nitrates as low as possible, zero would be great for the fish, but certainly lower than 20 ppm. My tanks have been in the 0-5 ppm range for more than ten years now, never varying from water change to water change, and that is the kind of stability you want.



A quick comment on this...don't fuss over phosphates, but your local fish store might test them for you, I wouldn't go beyond that though. I think the afore-mentioned suggestions will deal with this, it may take a few weeks, but persevere.

thank you very much.

i have two more questions, will this cyanobacteria harm my fish? Another thing, can i accidentally pass this Cyanobacteria through my hands or other things that come in contact with this tank?

if yes i would be more careful. Not that i use everything one for all my tanks but sometimes maybe i forgot to wash my hands before touching other tanks.

6 hours is as least as you can go. Or,just dont put the lights on for 3-4 days. BGA can be killed of with various chemicals..then as mentioned comes back with the first water change that removes the chemicals.
So,clean the pre filters very well...get excess gunk out of the substrate. One thing I learned over the decades is..sand is a problem with BGA. They seem to go hand in hand. You really want to use proper grade gravel for most of the tank and maybe some white sands for show in least amount in the front.
Basically, dirty sands and dirty filters + too much light just send BGA to heavenly happiness.

thank you

i’ll clean the tank and filter media.
I use sand only for this tank because i have bottom dwellers and i think they might like it.

this is a new thing for me this Cyanobacteria but i’m kinda glad i came across with it so i can learn more about this hobby. Still kinda annoyed and worried, too though.

 

[Byron]

i have two more questions, will this cyanobacteria harm my fish? Another thing, can i accidentally pass this Cyanobacteria through my hands or other things that come in contact with this tank?

if yes i would be more careful. Not that i use everything one for all my tanks but sometimes maybe i forgot to wash my hands before touching other tanks.

Cyanobacteria will not harm fish directly, but it is a sign that organics are too high and that can lead to worsening conditions, and nitrates do negatively impact fish to varying degree depending upon the level, the species, and the exposure time. Eventually cyano can coat plants killing them. So getting rid of it is a good thing.

Lots of things including cyano can be transferred to another tank. When I have something like this, I do the affected tank last on my water change day, so the Python and buckets have a week to completely dry. I don't/wouldn't worry so much about cyano and algae being transferred, because they are unlikely to "take hold" if the other tank's biological system is not off balance.

 

[shaziasadiqah]

Cyanobacteria will not harm fish directly, but it is a sign that organics are too high and that can lead to worsening conditions, and nitrates do negatively impact fish to varying degree depending upon the level, the species, and the exposure time. Eventually cyano can coat plants killing them. So getting rid of it is a good thing.

Lots of things including cyano can be transferred to another tank. When I have something like this, I do the affected tank last on my water change day, so the Python and buckets have a week to completely dry. I don't/wouldn't worry so much about cyano and algae being transferred, because they are unlikely to "take hold" if the other tank's biological system is not off balance.

thank you, i’ll try my best to fix the problems so all the cyano i can take out right now wouldn’t come back.

i’ll lessen the feeding and keep track of my nitrate, do more water change if necessary. I also will lessen the light and changing the fertilizer i use and hope things will be better in the future.

thanks a lot

 

[hansgruber7]

That's interesting about the sand. I have four tanks and the only tank I ever got cyanobacteria in was the only tank with sand in it. Didn't realize that could be a factor. Good to know. It's definitely treatable if you address the root causes. My tank was getting overrun and now I haven't had the slightest hint of it in several months. I added frogbit too which helped suck up nutrients I think. Frogbit will also help block some of your light if it's too bright. I also got a colony of shrimp which I think helped eat any leftover fish food that got to the bottom because organics contribute to the problem. I also got a better, stronger filter and increased the flow. My tap water had high nitrates so switched to RO. Good luck if that's what it is!

 

[shaziasadiqah]

That's interesting about the sand. I have four tanks and the only tank I ever got cyanobacteria in was the only tank with sand in it. Didn't realize that could be a factor. Good to know. It's definitely treatable if you address the root causes. My tank was getting overrun and now I haven't had the slightest hint of it in several months. I added frogbit too which helped suck up nutrients I think. Frogbit will also help block some of your light if it's too bright. I also got a colony of shrimp which I think helped eat any leftover fish food that got to the bottom because organics contribute to the problem. I also got a better, stronger filter and increased the flow. My tap water had high nitrates so switched to RO. Good luck if that's what it is!

thank you.
I never have cyanobacteria in my other tanks with gravels even when my 55gal have very high nitrate one time.

but beside the sand i also know that i kind of overfeed this tank because i see my corydoras are not growing fast enough. My first thought was the honey gouramis and ember tetras eat all the food before it get to the bottom of the tank.

i should increase the flow for this tank and lessen the food.